Antonio Liverano, Florentine tailor

[Stugotes]

Can we talk about jacket length for a second? While the Armoury and Liverano guys always look stellar in their L&L gear, I kinda suspect it's a look for non-tall people. Are any of the aforementioned taller than 6 feet/1.8m?

I've seen some tall people in L&L and somehow got the impression that the cut/style of the jacket is not ideal for them. I think it's mainly due to the open quarters, but also button stance.

 

[lordsuperb]

Michael Alden made a comment on the London Lounge that Italian tailors have a hard time fitting taller individuals.....

 

[Leaves]



Can we talk about jacket length for a second? While the Armoury and Liverano guys always look stellar in their L&L gear, I kinda suspect it's a look for non-tall people. Are any of the aforementioned taller than 6 feet/1.8m?

I've seen some tall people in L&L and somehow got the impression that the cut/style of the jacket is not ideal for them. I think it's mainly due to the open quarters, but also button stance.

I'm 6'6". Picking up my jacket (no trousers) in March.

 

[jedwards]

im tall, and I use italian tailors, not had an issue.

On a wider note, I don't think short jackets look good on taller guys, nor very open quarters as it can look toy town-ish. Although both may look good well done well on normal height guys. Just my 2c.

 

[Murlsquirl]



I'm 6'6". Picking up my jacket (no trousers) in March.

I was just about to post the picture from your fitting. Didn't see any issues there....

 

[jaywhyy]

I think the button stance and open quarters would be an issue for short torsos/long legs moreso than absolute height.

 

[aussieboy]

Autumn is (finally) here in Sweden, and I got to wear my Liverano tweed again and took a new picture. Quarters are certainly very open (it is a major feature of the Liverano house cut after all), but it was my stance before makng the belt visible. This is more how it normally looks:


But again, I don't have any problem with an exposed waistband or belt. In fact, I'm going back to Florence in October to pick up a couple of more Liveranos

This is fantastic.

 

[gusvs]



This is fantastic. 

Thank you @aussieboy

 

[Victor Elfo]

Post some more pieces, @gusvs !

 

[gusvs]



Post some more pieces, @gusvs
! 

A couple more:

 

[Leaves]

^^ Mid-grey suit is my cup of tea, every day of the week.

 

[gusvs]



^^ Mid-grey suit is my cup of tea, every day of the week.

Mid grey? You? I thought nothing but brown was your cup of tea @leaves

 

[Leaves]



Mid grey? You? I thought nothing but brown was your cup of tea @leaves

I know, but that suit of yours changed the game.

 

[Sander]



Michael Alden made a comment on the London Lounge that Italian tailors have a hard time fitting taller individuals.....

I think there's at least some truth to this. Two things: first, it's hard to reach/see the client well if he's like three heads taller than you. Comparable to shooting pics from a low angle, proportions will be misrepresented. Not necessarily a problem, but the tailor has to be aware of this and some experience with taller clients is best.
Secondly, many typical Italian stylistic details help to make the suit wearer look taller (think breast pocket placemend, gorge height...). I don't need that and Patrik definitely doesn't. Again, doesn't have to be a problem, but it can.

 

[jedwards]

I'm tall.

I think the issue *** can *** be that Italian tailors will often have a preference for ankle-bashers and short jackets - this is not necessarily a new thing either, historically I have seen British documentaries on BBC about Savile Row where those tailors referred to Italian tailors as making jackets which were 'bum freezers' (bum = British word for backside, e.g. the jacket was too short in the British tailors' eyes.)

Now this won't always be the case of course and will vary by tailor, but broadly, the stuff tends to be shorter if we can generalise.

I emphatically do not think short jackets or ankle bashers look good on tall men, it just looks like you can't get stuff to fit you.
Can look good on 'normal' height men if the aesthetic is done well, typically casually.

I prefer my jackets of a fairly classic length on the back, same for the trousers, and if that means I am not the most trendy guy in the room then so be it, but I would hate the opposite with people thinking "the poor guy can't get stuff to fit him well"