• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • Amide Hadelin is right offering up to 40% off their excellent selection of exclusive menswear and accessories, including this Lambswool cable knit shawl collar cardigan made by a family business bon the Scottish borderlands. Please use code: SF10 at checkout for an extra 10% olf. Sale end February 2.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

The Official Tweed Appreciation Thread

BlueSteel

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2021
Messages
737
Reaction score
1,410
Fox Char-Navy Herringbone Tweed in a sportcoat from Spier & Mackay:

Fox Char Navy Herringbone Sportcoat.jpg


Fox Char Navy Herringbone.jpg
 
Last edited:

J.A.G

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2024
Messages
20
Reaction score
13
I have a serious question about tweed - namely, when is a wool jacket a tweed jacket, and what is the difference? These are the putative tweeds in my closet. The four on the right I know to be tweed, because they have a “Harris Tweed” label in them. But what about the brown windowpane jacket on the left? I found it in an online search of the Andover shop, and it was the only jacket in my size in the store. So I picked it up the next time I was driving by, less than a year ago.

All wool, but not as coarse as the Harris Tweeds. So is this properly called a ”tweed”, and if so, why?
IMG_1032.jpeg
IMG_1033.jpeg
 

thelonius

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2013
Messages
326
Reaction score
74
I have a serious question about tweed - namely, when is a wool jacket a tweed jacket, and what is the difference? These are the putative tweeds in my closet. The four on the right I know to be tweed, because they have a “Harris Tweed” label in them. But what about the brown windowpane jacket on the left? I found it in an online search of the Andover shop, and it was the only jacket in my size in the store. So I picked it up the next time I was driving by, less than a year ago.

All wool, but not as coarse as the Harris Tweeds. So is this properly called a ”tweed”, and if so, why?
View attachment 2300643 View attachment 2300645
Yes, it's an interesting question. When does a woollen cloth become a tweed.... Actually I'm in no way qualified to answer, but:
1. A quick Internet search such as "what is the difference between woollen cloth and tweed" for e.g. reveals a large number of sources addressing the question. Trouble is there is confusion and not necessarily a clear consensus.
2. I found at https://clan.com/blog/tweed-wools-materials a discussion which is extensive, definition, history, etc. One thing that is interesting is an idea that goes contrary to what a lot of sources say (i.e. that tweed is a particular kind of woollen cloth) - that is, tweed is not necessarily made from wool. From this site: "Tweed is not a pattern, and nor is it a material. It's ultimately best seen as a type of yarn, produced by dying raw wool (or other fibres) after washing, but before it is spun. So tweed fabric is termed fibre-dyed."
However, as the same site says, for Harris Tweed it is stipulated by law that Scottish wool must be used. But apparently there are other tweeds (such as silk tweed) that are not based on wool.
So it seems that your brown jacket on the left, although it has a windowpane pattern, doesn't have the necessary mix of colours and different dyed fibres to be considered tweed.
But there again...............
 

thelonius

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2013
Messages
326
Reaction score
74
Yes, it's an interesting question. When does a woollen cloth become a tweed.... Actually I'm in no way qualified to answer, but:
1. A quick Internet search such as "what is the difference between woollen cloth and tweed" for e.g. reveals a large number of sources addressing the question. Trouble is there is confusion and not necessarily a clear consensus.
2. I found at https://clan.com/blog/tweed-wools-materials a discussion which is extensive, definition, history, etc. One thing that is interesting is an idea that goes contrary to what a lot of sources say (i.e. that tweed is a particular kind of woollen cloth) - that is, tweed is not necessarily made from wool. From this site: "Tweed is not a pattern, and nor is it a material. It's ultimately best seen as a type of yarn, produced by dying raw wool (or other fibres) after washing, but before it is spun. So tweed fabric is termed fibre-dyed."
However, as the same site says, for Harris Tweed it is stipulated by law that Scottish wool must be used. But apparently there are other tweeds (such as silk tweed) that are not based on wool.
So it seems that your brown jacket on the left, although it has a windowpane pattern, doesn't have the necessary mix of colours and different dyed fibres to be considered tweed.
But there again...............
Oh and BTW, the brown jacket on the left looks really nice, tweed or not!
 

comrade

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
9,555
Reaction score
2,794
I have a serious question about tweed - namely, when is a wool jacket a tweed jacket, and what is the difference? These are the putative tweeds in my closet. The four on the right I know to be tweed, because they have a “Harris Tweed” label in them. But what about the brown windowpane jacket on the left? I found it in an online search of the Andover shop, and it was the only jacket in my size in the store. So I picked it up the next time I was driving by, less than a year ago.

All wool, but not as coarse as the Harris Tweeds. So is this properly called a ”tweed”, and if so, why?
View attachment 2300643 View attachment 2300645
Is this it? If so, it is a tweed:



 

comrade

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
9,555
Reaction score
2,794
If you are ever in Edinburgh, visit Stewart Christie:


They are "hardcore". Their shop is mostly tweed, RTW, MTM
and Bespoke. Some of the bespoke garments in various
stages of production, made me want to emigrate to Scotland
and play " Laird".
 

Frog in Suit

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2008
Messages
246
Reaction score
74
If you are ever in Edinburgh, visit Stewart Christie:


They are "hardcore". Their shop is mostly tweed, RTW, MTM
and Bespoke. Some of the bespoke garments in various
stages of production, made me want to emigrate to Scotland
and play " Laird".
I went into their shop once (and bought a tie...). There was a wonderful smell of tweed / wool when I entered...
 

Featured Sponsor

How do you prefer trousers to be finished?

  • Plain hem

  • Cuffed (1.5 inches or less)

  • Cuffed (more than 1.5 inches)

  • No preference, as long as the proportions work


Results are only viewable after voting.

Forum statistics

Threads
522,884
Messages
10,744,689
Members
229,654
Latest member
FredaawleyEE
Top