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The Official Tweed Appreciation Thread

BlueSteel

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Fox Char-Navy Herringbone Tweed in a sportcoat from Spier & Mackay:

Fox Char Navy Herringbone Sportcoat.jpg


Fox Char Navy Herringbone.jpg
 
Last edited:

J.A.G

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I have a serious question about tweed - namely, when is a wool jacket a tweed jacket, and what is the difference? These are the putative tweeds in my closet. The four on the right I know to be tweed, because they have a “Harris Tweed” label in them. But what about the brown windowpane jacket on the left? I found it in an online search of the Andover shop, and it was the only jacket in my size in the store. So I picked it up the next time I was driving by, less than a year ago.

All wool, but not as coarse as the Harris Tweeds. So is this properly called a ”tweed”, and if so, why?
IMG_1032.jpeg
IMG_1033.jpeg
 

thelonius

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I have a serious question about tweed - namely, when is a wool jacket a tweed jacket, and what is the difference? These are the putative tweeds in my closet. The four on the right I know to be tweed, because they have a “Harris Tweed” label in them. But what about the brown windowpane jacket on the left? I found it in an online search of the Andover shop, and it was the only jacket in my size in the store. So I picked it up the next time I was driving by, less than a year ago.

All wool, but not as coarse as the Harris Tweeds. So is this properly called a ”tweed”, and if so, why?
View attachment 2300643 View attachment 2300645
Yes, it's an interesting question. When does a woollen cloth become a tweed.... Actually I'm in no way qualified to answer, but:
1. A quick Internet search such as "what is the difference between woollen cloth and tweed" for e.g. reveals a large number of sources addressing the question. Trouble is there is confusion and not necessarily a clear consensus.
2. I found at https://clan.com/blog/tweed-wools-materials a discussion which is extensive, definition, history, etc. One thing that is interesting is an idea that goes contrary to what a lot of sources say (i.e. that tweed is a particular kind of woollen cloth) - that is, tweed is not necessarily made from wool. From this site: "Tweed is not a pattern, and nor is it a material. It's ultimately best seen as a type of yarn, produced by dying raw wool (or other fibres) after washing, but before it is spun. So tweed fabric is termed fibre-dyed."
However, as the same site says, for Harris Tweed it is stipulated by law that Scottish wool must be used. But apparently there are other tweeds (such as silk tweed) that are not based on wool.
So it seems that your brown jacket on the left, although it has a windowpane pattern, doesn't have the necessary mix of colours and different dyed fibres to be considered tweed.
But there again...............
 

thelonius

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Yes, it's an interesting question. When does a woollen cloth become a tweed.... Actually I'm in no way qualified to answer, but:
1. A quick Internet search such as "what is the difference between woollen cloth and tweed" for e.g. reveals a large number of sources addressing the question. Trouble is there is confusion and not necessarily a clear consensus.
2. I found at https://clan.com/blog/tweed-wools-materials a discussion which is extensive, definition, history, etc. One thing that is interesting is an idea that goes contrary to what a lot of sources say (i.e. that tweed is a particular kind of woollen cloth) - that is, tweed is not necessarily made from wool. From this site: "Tweed is not a pattern, and nor is it a material. It's ultimately best seen as a type of yarn, produced by dying raw wool (or other fibres) after washing, but before it is spun. So tweed fabric is termed fibre-dyed."
However, as the same site says, for Harris Tweed it is stipulated by law that Scottish wool must be used. But apparently there are other tweeds (such as silk tweed) that are not based on wool.
So it seems that your brown jacket on the left, although it has a windowpane pattern, doesn't have the necessary mix of colours and different dyed fibres to be considered tweed.
But there again...............
Oh and BTW, the brown jacket on the left looks really nice, tweed or not!
 

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