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I found this article from a Canadian magazine (dated Oct 15 1930) that I think many of you will enjoy... As a matter of fact, the whole magazine.
https://archive.macleans.ca/issue/19301015/#!&pid=54
"A survey of this Fall's styles, written for the man who realizes that clothes are a habitation whose fashioning may make or mar personality, and that he who goes well-dressed goes well-armed against the business of living
J. A. GROUTOCTOBER 15 1930"
A Taste in Clothes Is A Taste of Success
J. A. GROUT
A survey of this Fall's styles, written for the man who realizes that clothes are a habitation whose fashioning may make or mar personality, and that he who goes well-dressed goes well-armed against the business of living
FEW people realize the tremendous part that clothes play in a man’s or a youth’s success. Few people mention the fact, or admit that they are swayed in their likes and dislikes of people by their dress, but nevertheless they are influenced very greatly. Try to imagine the leading man in a screen society drama, whose fortunes everyone in the audience is following with eager interest, being poorly or faultily dressed. It simply wouldn’t be done. It would mean that the hero’s appearance would belie the part that he held in his audience’s heart. The thing would be incongruous.
In everyday life as well as in drama one is judged, far more than he can ever know, by his appearance. It is true that many a person of sterling qualities often pays little atten^011 to his dress. Possibly such people feel that they do not need to consider their appearance. Such an attitude, however, cannot be defended. It is true our friends and those who are acquainted personally with us may look beyond our appearance in judging us, but the public at large cannot be expected to make such allowance.
There is no doubt whatever that more men than ever before realize the value of good clothes. Every year sees more men, both young and old, looking to their personal appearance and giving more serious thought and interest to their clothes. Clothiers have devised installment methods of selling clothes whereby the young man on a small salary may be encouraged to buy more and better clothes. The clothiers and clothing manufacturers together have developed a clothes consciousness among men to an extent which never existed before today.
And yet . . .
There is an incident related of how a well-known English magistrate was walking in the street when he chanced to see a cab-horse of extremely emaciated appearance. Shocked by the animal’s appearance, he protested vigorously to the cabby who chanced to be standing near by.
“Well, sir,” replied the driver, “there ain’t anything
really wrong with that horse, but it’s like this: Every mornin’ I toss up with him to see whether he gets his hay or I get my beer. And believe it or not, sir, that horse has lost for the last eight days straight.”
Time to “Dress Up”
WITH some men this situation prevails regarding their clothes. Too often their clothes lose the toss in favor of other items in their budget—amusement, automobile, social activities, and other expenses which are all competing for their share of every map’s dollar. There is no denying that all these have their place. But it is a mistake for a man to overlook the fact that his appearance counts more today than ever before.
And now what about the fall and winter wardrobe? There is something about the air in October that starts every man thinking about buying a new hat, a new suit or a new light overcoat. Perhaps it is just the cool autumn tang that suggests the time has arrived for a change, or perhaps it is seeing the crowds at the rugby stadium, where hundreds of new ideas in fall clothes make their first appearance.
Whatever the cause may be, the average man decides that the suit which did him good service through the hot summer days has earned an honorable retirement. Likewise he finds his light weight hat no longer quite the most appropriate form of headwear. And one of those new light overcoats would feel a lot better than
the old one which has now seen him through two or three
seasons.
There is no doubt that being “dressed up” has a definite psychological effect on a person. More than one doctor dealing with people who are troubled with “nerves” has recommended that, when one is feeling downhearted or depressed, one of the surest remedies is to dress up in one’s finest clothes. The fact of being well dressed gives one a feeling of satisfaction; and, consciously or unconsciously, he feels the soothing reaction on his troubled mental attitude.
It’s Different Now
THERE has been a great change in the merchandizing of clothes in the last few years. It doesn’t seem so long ago that the periodic buying of our suit of clothes— once a year or twice a year as the case may have been— was a momentous event. Until we were quite grown up this was usually supervised by our mothers, and as a rule a watch, a baseball bat or an express wagon accompanied the suit home.
Things are different now, not only because we have grown up but also because buying clothes has become much more of an every day event. The boys of today don’t get the same thrill out of buying a suit of clothes that we did because they have twice as many clothes. They are experienced in buying clothes. As a rule they have their own ideas of style. And if you don’t think
that a boy appreciates the value of style, try and sell him a suit that isn’t being worn.
When you are buying a suit of clothes today, the up-to-date clothing salesman will point out to you that there are other very definite features which should be factors in making your decision. There is the quality of the fabric, the correctness of the cut, and the workmanship in assembling the various parts of the garment. There are of course suits and suits. You can pay $125 for a suit or you can pay $25. There will be features in the one which you won’t find in the other. But no matter what price you pay, in these days of efficiency and skill in the manufacture of clothes you have a right to expect correct cut and good workmanship—and you can get them. The making of clothes is no longer a hazard. You need not go through an interim of trepidation while your suit is being made, wonder whether it is going to look as though it were made for you or someone else. If you do feel this fear, you should buy from another clothier. There is no need for it. Clothes are now made as scientifically as motor cars or electric irons.
Buying the New Overcoat
V\ THEN the cool autumn evenings * V make themselves felt, naturally the first thought that enters a man’s head is that he must get a new coat. Probably there is no other article of apparel that a man gets the same “kick” out of as the feel of a comfortable light-weight overcoat for early fall wear. It invariably carries that feeling of novelty about it
that no other garment has. At no time has there been such a variety of overcoats to choose from—light weight, heavy, long and short, dark or light in color, and with almost all the fine points of style that a suit possesses.
There has been a noticeable return in the last year or two toward the long snugfitting coats, especially with the younger men. In general form they are not unlike the Chesterfield type. They are made with rope shoulders and come quite tightfitting.
Very popular with some men have been the various forms of “Llama” overcoats which have made their appearance. These coats, while appearing extremely warm, as indeed they are, are quite light
in weight and have a swagger effect that makes them favorites with the so-called “collegiate” wearer. They are made with an all-around belt and large collar. Usually they may be had in shades of light brown, dark brown, or grey.
It will pay a man to give more than a passing thought to the matter of purchasing his overcoat. The average man who may have three or four suits to his name which he can change into at desire, as a rule has only one, or perhaps two, overcoats which are suitable for cold weather. Since he has to live in such close companionship with it for several months he should get one which will give him satisfaction from the standpoint of both appearance and quality. There is perhaps no article of wear which causes more dissatisfaction than an overcoat which fails to live up to its promise of the first few days, and which the wearer knows he must stick to until the end of the season or else be put to the expense of purchasing a new one.
Matter of Color
T) ROWN gives promise of being one of the favorite colors in suits this fall and winter. Grey is a coming color and is gaining ground in the worsted cloths. It is thought by many in the clothing industry that blue should begin to make up for its lack of popularity during the spring and summer by being in increased demand during the next few months.
Shades of green are slowly coming back, and it is expected that it will be taken up by many young men in the spring.
Stripes continue to dominate, but plaids are still enjoying a fair demand.
The small pattern effects are winning more followers. They appear to be due for popularity this fall and winter and are also strongly favored for spring.
Sack coats remain short, with shoulders depending upon type of model. The shoulders vary from slightly square to extremely square. Taken as a whole they will not be exaggerated this season, but the width will be slightly beyond normal.
Vest openings will be lower. The side lengths will be shortened, with points ranging from medium to rather long. The higher rise in the trousers will take care of the decreased length of the vest. The size of the knee and bottom of the trousers remain large.
Continued on page 58
Continued from page 56
Both peak and notch lapels are correct, but the notch lapels appear to be the more popular.
For Formal Wear
r"PHE well-dressed man this season will -*■ wear at all formal evening affairs, such as dances, dinners, theatre parties or weddings, an evening tail-coat of black or midnight blue. The lapels may be silk faced, with cloth or silk collar. The waistcoat will be of white washable material, either doubleorsingle breasted. Trousers will be of same material as coat, with either two medium wide braids set close together or one broad braid. A high silk hat should be worn. A stiff bosom shirt with plain band wing collar. White tie, and white gloves will complete the ensemble.
Then, for the more informal occasions which he will attend, there will be the singleor double-breasted dinner jacket to match the tuxedo. The high felt hat will be worn with this more informal
attire. Gloves of white and patent leather shoes should accompany this ensemble.
As he will no doubt be attending some formal day affairs of importance, he will need a frock or cutaway coat of black material. The trousers will be black and white striped or checked. A singleor double-breasted waistcoat may be worn, either of material to match the coat or of white or pastel shade material. Gloves may be of white, grey or fawn color. Dark silk socks and patent leather or other shoes may be worn.
For informal or business wear a singleor double-breasted jacket and trousers to match. This is the dress which a man wears the most, but there is no reason why it should be any the less correct on that account. There will be the usual choice between a derby or a felt hat. White or colored shirts may be worn. The soft pastel shades have been popular in shirts during the recent seasons, and no doubt will be worn considerably this fall and winter.
For country wear the cutaway coat or belted jacket should be popular in tweeds, cheviots or flannels. Soft felt or cloth hat or cap is preferred.
Using Style to Bring Back Hats
STYLE is the chief influence in the purchase of a hat, and it seems as though this fall a good many of the
Continued on page 60
Continued from page 58
I hatters were using this factor to reclaim j the interest of the young and also the older men. Short snap brims will be plentiful, with high crowns, in pearl grey and brown felts. A feature of more than usual interest is the bound-edge lightweight hat. It seems to be an answer to the call for light weight in men’s headwear which has been sounding for so long.
The derby hat, always popular with a large number of men, should find its usual favor this year. It has a dressy appearance which appeals to its wearer, and it will be the choice of the young man who wishes to have that “dressed up” appearance.
In England the snap-brim soft hat remains one of the most popular, but it will this year meet with more competition from the stiff kind. Narrow bound snap brims are more in favor than the cut-edge brims. A popular line of this season has been the hat with the soft crown felt with the stiff snap brim. This hat has found favor with motorists and travellers because the stiff brim prevents the wind crumpling the brim over their eyes. It is also favored by golfers and sportsmen generally for sport wear.
Motoring Brought Increased Need for Cap
''T'lIE increasing use of the automobile has played an important pattt in the demand for smart appearing caps. Realizing that they made an ideal form of head-
wear for this pastime, motorists commenced keeping one specially for driving; only instead of it being an old, crumpled, oil-stained one kept in the tool kit, it was a snappy, stylish cap in which the motorist could feel in keeping with his burnished car.
The advent of the fall season brings many urgent needs for one or more good caps to the citizen. Always an important and useful unit of his apparel, a cap becomes of even more necessity as the cool autumn days call. He will need one for motoring and golfing, of course. The walking enthusiast who feels the urge to do a fiveor ten-mile hike on a bright Saturday or Sunday afternoon cannot do it more comfortably than in a man-sized cap of smart appearance and spacious comfort.
The shooting season brings its need for a good cap for the man who would face the cool morning air. And then, too, we must not overlook the Tom Thumb golf enthusiast. It will soon be too chilly for him to pursue his tortuous round bareheaded. If this pastime is to continue to thrive during the coming months—as Fortune seems to decree that it shall—he will soon need the protection of a cap.
New Styles in Shirts
AS in other lines of men’s furnishings, such improvement has been effected in the making of shirts during very recent years that the shirt of today can scarcely be identified with that of even a few short
years ago. The care exercised in making the shirts the right proportions, and the methods used in assembling the different parts of the shirt in various combinations of sizes to suit the requirements of different types of people, have virtually turned the shirt industry into a custom tailoring profession. Almost any type of man, whatever his measurements, may today walk into any average haberdashery and be assured of getting his requirements supplied.
Color in shirts, like color in all things, has run the length of the scale. Unlike color in furniture and buildings, however, we find today a distinct trend toward finer effects and softer shades in shirts.
It is true that these bid fair to be a little more pronounced than last year, but even at that they can in no way be termed “loud.” Pastel shades should be popular this fall and winter. Striped shirts always have a certain demand, and possibly more this year than lately. A small portion of the public demands very neat effects in fine black and white, blue and white, or grey and white. Checks seem to be finding favor, and a number of retailers will be selling them in larger quantities before the season is out.
Trend Toward Small Figures in Neckwear
nro THE young man, or the older man
who would express his enthusiasm in the selection of his ties, this season holds out plenty of promise. Many are the varieties of patterns and shades which he will be able to choose from. Stripes, dots and geometric patterns will be here singly and in combinations. In New York and some of the larger Canadian cities there is a noticeable trend toward small figures both in ties and mufflers. Oxford cloth
and Madras material are being shown extensively by some of the leading stores, as are also what is known as the “Bombay” stripes. These ties are made of silk shantung with a bright satin stripe.
A necktie made of pure silk crêpe, silklined with tiny pin dots contrasting in color with the pastel grounds, may be had in six colors. Others which look popular are a black tie with white graduated hairline stripes, and a jacquard silk tie in light grounds with tiny pin dots.
In London, the old style stripe is giving way to the more novel designs. One of these novelties is the ice cube stripe—an ingenious creation which is finished to give the effect of melting ice. Twentyfour combinations may be had in this design. The holiday season saw a good demand for panel ties in navy, black and dark-brown grounds, with deep börderings and pleasing patterns in the centre.
The many shades and patterns displayed in neckwear this season will give hope to the many fathers, brothers, sons and boy friends who must rely on the judgment of others to keep them provided with suitable ties.
Suspenders Break into Society
CUSPENDERS have broken through the C' upper strata of society ! Formerly kept out of sight under the counter cr else bundled together in bunches and hung over a rod, we now’ see them in their gorgeous new colors displayed in gift boxes arranged in attractive ensembles with their loftier cousins, the shirts, ties and scarves. Formerly a discordant item in a man’s outfit, they are now sold as an enhancement. No longer do they have to suffocate in muffled silence out of sight. They are worn, even flaunted, over a man’s shirt even when he is coatless.
Neither convention nor the hour of the day has proved a barrier to the success of the suspenders. They are displayed in proud association with the tuxedo and dress suit. They have inspired more ingenious color schemes for ensembles of ties, handkerchiefs and suspenders than ever were dreamed of before they joined the group. Truly, the triumph of the suspenders has been complete.
Socks Have Joined the Ensemble
/\NOTHER of the interesting evolutions which have taken place in men’s wear is that of hosiery. It is not so long ago that a man bought his socks on their own individual merits. That is, it was not important that they played any part in his scheme of dress, nor often did they harmonize, even to the slightest degree, w'ith his other clothes. The patterns were extreme and in many cases even grotesque, as though the hosiery manufacturers had engaged in a mad race to claim men’s attention by their display of loud patterns. With a large number of men it was considered that the more phenomenal the design of their hose the better dressed they were.
Meantime the ensemble idea had made its appearance so far as the so-called more important items in a man’s dress were concerned. He was learning that his hat should harmonize with his suit or topcoat. His tie and his shirt, he found, made pleasing combinations when proper colors were selected. The ensemble idea grew rapidly until it w’as taken up by the hosiery manufacturers as well. They began to make a study of the styling and designing of hosiery from the ensemble point of view. They made a broad and extensive study of the style trends of men’s clothes as a w'hole. As a result, today we see a new era in men’s hosiery fashions. The loud-speaking, stand-out patterns have largely disappeared and their place has been taken by more pleasing and attractive shades which blend in well and make a harmonious unit in man’s general ensemble.
Not all colorful effects disappeared
from hosiery, however. It must be appearance and is making headway to remembered that golf and other outdoor some extent.
sports were gaining tremendous ground These remarks on color do not, of as pastimes for men. In order to play course, include the sport shoes but refer golf successfully one soon learned that he only to those for street and business wear, simply had to have a snappy, breezy For golf, black and white predominated outfit that breathed of the out-of-doors, this summer and seem to be the popular This provided the opportunity for the color for the rest of the year and possibly old instinct in men, which still longed for next summer.
the striking, unusual patterns, to satisfy To the wearer, even more important itself. Forthwith grew up the golfing than the appearance of the shoes is their ensemble, in which full scope was given to comfort. It has often been said with the designers, and golf socks, sweaters truth that a man is no better than his and pullovers of brilliant themes appeared, feet are. If all the ailments and irritations Of late a new creation has appeared in and indispositions of men caused by tight hosiery in the form of a combined sock or ill-fitting shoes could be traced to their and garter which bids fair to become correct source, it would be a revelation.
popular in time. It is now being manufactured in a complete range of sizes and styles by some of the larger hosiery companies, who claim that this serviceable form of hose will soon claim a strong place in men’s affections.
Styles in Shoes
ONE of the least considered, yet one of the most important items in a man’s attire is his footwear. By this it is not meant that men are careless in the choice of the shoes they wear. Far from it. Men as a rule choose their shoes very carefully. But when it comes to seasonal changes or styles, it is another matter. Men are conservative; so much so that styles seem to evolve instead of change in footwear. It takes a long time to bring about a radical change in men’s shoes, and then only by the gradual process of making minute changes from time to time. In fact, in a general way, it is with most men merely a matter of changing the weight of the shoe with the changing seasons. With some, not even that matters.
The low-cut shoes or Oxfords continue to be the leaders of the day. They are the rule from eight to eighty. Nevertheless you will find a number who still prefer boots. The range of color schemes has not broadened a great deal in the past decade, and this year the favorites are black and brown worn to match the attire. A shoe in navy blue has made its
The scientific methods used by Canadian manufacturers enable them to make shoes to fit every type of foot. Complete ranges of sizes are in stock in any wellequipped store, so that there is no need for a person suffering with shoes that do not suit him in every respect. Canadian shoes enjoy a high reputation, not only in Canada but in other countries to which they are shipped.
Is it a Question of Money?
"VX/ITH some people the question of ** being well dressed immediately associates itself with the necessity of having a large income. They think that being well dressed requires one to be rich. They are in something of the position of the woman at whose door a book agent knocked one morning.
“Madam,” he began, “here is a most wonderful book. It tells you all about how to keep your husband.”
“Young man,” she cried shaking her apron in his face, “be off with you and your fool books! Ain’t I been keepin’ my husband now for the last ten years? What I want is a book that’ll teach ’im to go to work an’ keep me—the lazy loafer!”
So it is with these people. It is not a question of increasing one’s income to provide for his dress, but to adopt a system whereby he may be well-dressed within his present budget. It can be
Continued on page 64
Continued from page 62 done. Many of the best dressed men are those of modest income but who make up for this by careful and regular attention to the selection and care of their clothes.
Good Value in Canadian-made Clothing
A WORD as to the manufacture of clothing in Canada. For the past few years there seems to have grown up an inferiority complex on the part of the Canadian public in regard to Canadianmade textiles and clothes. Fortunately at present this complex seems to be in a fair way to die out, as the public commences to realize the dollar-for-dollar value that is to be got in Canadian-made clothing and furnishings. But even yet the foreign brand on a garment or on a roll of cloth seems to exert an amazing power over a great number of purchasers. With them an article must be imported or else it must be inferior— that is all there is to it.
Some people seem to think that the only way it is possible to get value for their money is to buy their clothing and furnishings from importers. They overlook the fact that Canadian industries
have just as expert designers, just as skilful workmen, and just as good material to work with. Added to that, they have the tremendous advantage of much less rail and ocean freight charges—all of which must come out of the consumer’s pocket; in many cases more up-to-date methods of manufacture and distribution, and, what is very important, a much more accurate knowledge of existing Canadian styles than the foreign exporter can possibly have.
It is encouraging to the Canadian manufacturer to see that the public is waking up to these facts, and is beginning to realize that in buying goods with a Canadian label it is getting the best that can be produced and at a price which eliminates all added expense.
Canadian men’s stores sell a huge volume of clothing, furnishings, woollen goods and shoes to thousands of visitors annually who tour this country. With them it is no secret that they prefer Canadian-made clothes to those made in their own countries. The Canadian label .s a mark to be desired as far as they are concerned. Why should it be necessary for these summer visitors to show us the way when it comes to appreciating Canadian-made clothes?
https://archive.macleans.ca/issue/19301015/#!&pid=54
"A survey of this Fall's styles, written for the man who realizes that clothes are a habitation whose fashioning may make or mar personality, and that he who goes well-dressed goes well-armed against the business of living
J. A. GROUTOCTOBER 15 1930"
A Taste in Clothes Is A Taste of Success
J. A. GROUT
A survey of this Fall's styles, written for the man who realizes that clothes are a habitation whose fashioning may make or mar personality, and that he who goes well-dressed goes well-armed against the business of living
FEW people realize the tremendous part that clothes play in a man’s or a youth’s success. Few people mention the fact, or admit that they are swayed in their likes and dislikes of people by their dress, but nevertheless they are influenced very greatly. Try to imagine the leading man in a screen society drama, whose fortunes everyone in the audience is following with eager interest, being poorly or faultily dressed. It simply wouldn’t be done. It would mean that the hero’s appearance would belie the part that he held in his audience’s heart. The thing would be incongruous.
In everyday life as well as in drama one is judged, far more than he can ever know, by his appearance. It is true that many a person of sterling qualities often pays little atten^011 to his dress. Possibly such people feel that they do not need to consider their appearance. Such an attitude, however, cannot be defended. It is true our friends and those who are acquainted personally with us may look beyond our appearance in judging us, but the public at large cannot be expected to make such allowance.
There is no doubt whatever that more men than ever before realize the value of good clothes. Every year sees more men, both young and old, looking to their personal appearance and giving more serious thought and interest to their clothes. Clothiers have devised installment methods of selling clothes whereby the young man on a small salary may be encouraged to buy more and better clothes. The clothiers and clothing manufacturers together have developed a clothes consciousness among men to an extent which never existed before today.
And yet . . .
There is an incident related of how a well-known English magistrate was walking in the street when he chanced to see a cab-horse of extremely emaciated appearance. Shocked by the animal’s appearance, he protested vigorously to the cabby who chanced to be standing near by.
“Well, sir,” replied the driver, “there ain’t anything
really wrong with that horse, but it’s like this: Every mornin’ I toss up with him to see whether he gets his hay or I get my beer. And believe it or not, sir, that horse has lost for the last eight days straight.”
Time to “Dress Up”
WITH some men this situation prevails regarding their clothes. Too often their clothes lose the toss in favor of other items in their budget—amusement, automobile, social activities, and other expenses which are all competing for their share of every map’s dollar. There is no denying that all these have their place. But it is a mistake for a man to overlook the fact that his appearance counts more today than ever before.
And now what about the fall and winter wardrobe? There is something about the air in October that starts every man thinking about buying a new hat, a new suit or a new light overcoat. Perhaps it is just the cool autumn tang that suggests the time has arrived for a change, or perhaps it is seeing the crowds at the rugby stadium, where hundreds of new ideas in fall clothes make their first appearance.
Whatever the cause may be, the average man decides that the suit which did him good service through the hot summer days has earned an honorable retirement. Likewise he finds his light weight hat no longer quite the most appropriate form of headwear. And one of those new light overcoats would feel a lot better than
the old one which has now seen him through two or three
seasons.
There is no doubt that being “dressed up” has a definite psychological effect on a person. More than one doctor dealing with people who are troubled with “nerves” has recommended that, when one is feeling downhearted or depressed, one of the surest remedies is to dress up in one’s finest clothes. The fact of being well dressed gives one a feeling of satisfaction; and, consciously or unconsciously, he feels the soothing reaction on his troubled mental attitude.
It’s Different Now
THERE has been a great change in the merchandizing of clothes in the last few years. It doesn’t seem so long ago that the periodic buying of our suit of clothes— once a year or twice a year as the case may have been— was a momentous event. Until we were quite grown up this was usually supervised by our mothers, and as a rule a watch, a baseball bat or an express wagon accompanied the suit home.
Things are different now, not only because we have grown up but also because buying clothes has become much more of an every day event. The boys of today don’t get the same thrill out of buying a suit of clothes that we did because they have twice as many clothes. They are experienced in buying clothes. As a rule they have their own ideas of style. And if you don’t think
that a boy appreciates the value of style, try and sell him a suit that isn’t being worn.
When you are buying a suit of clothes today, the up-to-date clothing salesman will point out to you that there are other very definite features which should be factors in making your decision. There is the quality of the fabric, the correctness of the cut, and the workmanship in assembling the various parts of the garment. There are of course suits and suits. You can pay $125 for a suit or you can pay $25. There will be features in the one which you won’t find in the other. But no matter what price you pay, in these days of efficiency and skill in the manufacture of clothes you have a right to expect correct cut and good workmanship—and you can get them. The making of clothes is no longer a hazard. You need not go through an interim of trepidation while your suit is being made, wonder whether it is going to look as though it were made for you or someone else. If you do feel this fear, you should buy from another clothier. There is no need for it. Clothes are now made as scientifically as motor cars or electric irons.
Buying the New Overcoat
V\ THEN the cool autumn evenings * V make themselves felt, naturally the first thought that enters a man’s head is that he must get a new coat. Probably there is no other article of apparel that a man gets the same “kick” out of as the feel of a comfortable light-weight overcoat for early fall wear. It invariably carries that feeling of novelty about it
that no other garment has. At no time has there been such a variety of overcoats to choose from—light weight, heavy, long and short, dark or light in color, and with almost all the fine points of style that a suit possesses.
There has been a noticeable return in the last year or two toward the long snugfitting coats, especially with the younger men. In general form they are not unlike the Chesterfield type. They are made with rope shoulders and come quite tightfitting.
Very popular with some men have been the various forms of “Llama” overcoats which have made their appearance. These coats, while appearing extremely warm, as indeed they are, are quite light
in weight and have a swagger effect that makes them favorites with the so-called “collegiate” wearer. They are made with an all-around belt and large collar. Usually they may be had in shades of light brown, dark brown, or grey.
It will pay a man to give more than a passing thought to the matter of purchasing his overcoat. The average man who may have three or four suits to his name which he can change into at desire, as a rule has only one, or perhaps two, overcoats which are suitable for cold weather. Since he has to live in such close companionship with it for several months he should get one which will give him satisfaction from the standpoint of both appearance and quality. There is perhaps no article of wear which causes more dissatisfaction than an overcoat which fails to live up to its promise of the first few days, and which the wearer knows he must stick to until the end of the season or else be put to the expense of purchasing a new one.
Matter of Color
T) ROWN gives promise of being one of the favorite colors in suits this fall and winter. Grey is a coming color and is gaining ground in the worsted cloths. It is thought by many in the clothing industry that blue should begin to make up for its lack of popularity during the spring and summer by being in increased demand during the next few months.
Shades of green are slowly coming back, and it is expected that it will be taken up by many young men in the spring.
Stripes continue to dominate, but plaids are still enjoying a fair demand.
The small pattern effects are winning more followers. They appear to be due for popularity this fall and winter and are also strongly favored for spring.
Sack coats remain short, with shoulders depending upon type of model. The shoulders vary from slightly square to extremely square. Taken as a whole they will not be exaggerated this season, but the width will be slightly beyond normal.
Vest openings will be lower. The side lengths will be shortened, with points ranging from medium to rather long. The higher rise in the trousers will take care of the decreased length of the vest. The size of the knee and bottom of the trousers remain large.
Continued on page 58
Continued from page 56
Both peak and notch lapels are correct, but the notch lapels appear to be the more popular.
For Formal Wear
r"PHE well-dressed man this season will -*■ wear at all formal evening affairs, such as dances, dinners, theatre parties or weddings, an evening tail-coat of black or midnight blue. The lapels may be silk faced, with cloth or silk collar. The waistcoat will be of white washable material, either doubleorsingle breasted. Trousers will be of same material as coat, with either two medium wide braids set close together or one broad braid. A high silk hat should be worn. A stiff bosom shirt with plain band wing collar. White tie, and white gloves will complete the ensemble.
Then, for the more informal occasions which he will attend, there will be the singleor double-breasted dinner jacket to match the tuxedo. The high felt hat will be worn with this more informal
attire. Gloves of white and patent leather shoes should accompany this ensemble.
As he will no doubt be attending some formal day affairs of importance, he will need a frock or cutaway coat of black material. The trousers will be black and white striped or checked. A singleor double-breasted waistcoat may be worn, either of material to match the coat or of white or pastel shade material. Gloves may be of white, grey or fawn color. Dark silk socks and patent leather or other shoes may be worn.
For informal or business wear a singleor double-breasted jacket and trousers to match. This is the dress which a man wears the most, but there is no reason why it should be any the less correct on that account. There will be the usual choice between a derby or a felt hat. White or colored shirts may be worn. The soft pastel shades have been popular in shirts during the recent seasons, and no doubt will be worn considerably this fall and winter.
For country wear the cutaway coat or belted jacket should be popular in tweeds, cheviots or flannels. Soft felt or cloth hat or cap is preferred.
Using Style to Bring Back Hats
STYLE is the chief influence in the purchase of a hat, and it seems as though this fall a good many of the
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Continued from page 58
I hatters were using this factor to reclaim j the interest of the young and also the older men. Short snap brims will be plentiful, with high crowns, in pearl grey and brown felts. A feature of more than usual interest is the bound-edge lightweight hat. It seems to be an answer to the call for light weight in men’s headwear which has been sounding for so long.
The derby hat, always popular with a large number of men, should find its usual favor this year. It has a dressy appearance which appeals to its wearer, and it will be the choice of the young man who wishes to have that “dressed up” appearance.
In England the snap-brim soft hat remains one of the most popular, but it will this year meet with more competition from the stiff kind. Narrow bound snap brims are more in favor than the cut-edge brims. A popular line of this season has been the hat with the soft crown felt with the stiff snap brim. This hat has found favor with motorists and travellers because the stiff brim prevents the wind crumpling the brim over their eyes. It is also favored by golfers and sportsmen generally for sport wear.
Motoring Brought Increased Need for Cap
''T'lIE increasing use of the automobile has played an important pattt in the demand for smart appearing caps. Realizing that they made an ideal form of head-
wear for this pastime, motorists commenced keeping one specially for driving; only instead of it being an old, crumpled, oil-stained one kept in the tool kit, it was a snappy, stylish cap in which the motorist could feel in keeping with his burnished car.
The advent of the fall season brings many urgent needs for one or more good caps to the citizen. Always an important and useful unit of his apparel, a cap becomes of even more necessity as the cool autumn days call. He will need one for motoring and golfing, of course. The walking enthusiast who feels the urge to do a fiveor ten-mile hike on a bright Saturday or Sunday afternoon cannot do it more comfortably than in a man-sized cap of smart appearance and spacious comfort.
The shooting season brings its need for a good cap for the man who would face the cool morning air. And then, too, we must not overlook the Tom Thumb golf enthusiast. It will soon be too chilly for him to pursue his tortuous round bareheaded. If this pastime is to continue to thrive during the coming months—as Fortune seems to decree that it shall—he will soon need the protection of a cap.
New Styles in Shirts
AS in other lines of men’s furnishings, such improvement has been effected in the making of shirts during very recent years that the shirt of today can scarcely be identified with that of even a few short
years ago. The care exercised in making the shirts the right proportions, and the methods used in assembling the different parts of the shirt in various combinations of sizes to suit the requirements of different types of people, have virtually turned the shirt industry into a custom tailoring profession. Almost any type of man, whatever his measurements, may today walk into any average haberdashery and be assured of getting his requirements supplied.
Color in shirts, like color in all things, has run the length of the scale. Unlike color in furniture and buildings, however, we find today a distinct trend toward finer effects and softer shades in shirts.
It is true that these bid fair to be a little more pronounced than last year, but even at that they can in no way be termed “loud.” Pastel shades should be popular this fall and winter. Striped shirts always have a certain demand, and possibly more this year than lately. A small portion of the public demands very neat effects in fine black and white, blue and white, or grey and white. Checks seem to be finding favor, and a number of retailers will be selling them in larger quantities before the season is out.
Trend Toward Small Figures in Neckwear
nro THE young man, or the older man
who would express his enthusiasm in the selection of his ties, this season holds out plenty of promise. Many are the varieties of patterns and shades which he will be able to choose from. Stripes, dots and geometric patterns will be here singly and in combinations. In New York and some of the larger Canadian cities there is a noticeable trend toward small figures both in ties and mufflers. Oxford cloth
and Madras material are being shown extensively by some of the leading stores, as are also what is known as the “Bombay” stripes. These ties are made of silk shantung with a bright satin stripe.
A necktie made of pure silk crêpe, silklined with tiny pin dots contrasting in color with the pastel grounds, may be had in six colors. Others which look popular are a black tie with white graduated hairline stripes, and a jacquard silk tie in light grounds with tiny pin dots.
In London, the old style stripe is giving way to the more novel designs. One of these novelties is the ice cube stripe—an ingenious creation which is finished to give the effect of melting ice. Twentyfour combinations may be had in this design. The holiday season saw a good demand for panel ties in navy, black and dark-brown grounds, with deep börderings and pleasing patterns in the centre.
The many shades and patterns displayed in neckwear this season will give hope to the many fathers, brothers, sons and boy friends who must rely on the judgment of others to keep them provided with suitable ties.
Suspenders Break into Society
CUSPENDERS have broken through the C' upper strata of society ! Formerly kept out of sight under the counter cr else bundled together in bunches and hung over a rod, we now’ see them in their gorgeous new colors displayed in gift boxes arranged in attractive ensembles with their loftier cousins, the shirts, ties and scarves. Formerly a discordant item in a man’s outfit, they are now sold as an enhancement. No longer do they have to suffocate in muffled silence out of sight. They are worn, even flaunted, over a man’s shirt even when he is coatless.
Neither convention nor the hour of the day has proved a barrier to the success of the suspenders. They are displayed in proud association with the tuxedo and dress suit. They have inspired more ingenious color schemes for ensembles of ties, handkerchiefs and suspenders than ever were dreamed of before they joined the group. Truly, the triumph of the suspenders has been complete.
Socks Have Joined the Ensemble
/\NOTHER of the interesting evolutions which have taken place in men’s wear is that of hosiery. It is not so long ago that a man bought his socks on their own individual merits. That is, it was not important that they played any part in his scheme of dress, nor often did they harmonize, even to the slightest degree, w'ith his other clothes. The patterns were extreme and in many cases even grotesque, as though the hosiery manufacturers had engaged in a mad race to claim men’s attention by their display of loud patterns. With a large number of men it was considered that the more phenomenal the design of their hose the better dressed they were.
Meantime the ensemble idea had made its appearance so far as the so-called more important items in a man’s dress were concerned. He was learning that his hat should harmonize with his suit or topcoat. His tie and his shirt, he found, made pleasing combinations when proper colors were selected. The ensemble idea grew rapidly until it w’as taken up by the hosiery manufacturers as well. They began to make a study of the styling and designing of hosiery from the ensemble point of view. They made a broad and extensive study of the style trends of men’s clothes as a w'hole. As a result, today we see a new era in men’s hosiery fashions. The loud-speaking, stand-out patterns have largely disappeared and their place has been taken by more pleasing and attractive shades which blend in well and make a harmonious unit in man’s general ensemble.
Not all colorful effects disappeared
from hosiery, however. It must be appearance and is making headway to remembered that golf and other outdoor some extent.
sports were gaining tremendous ground These remarks on color do not, of as pastimes for men. In order to play course, include the sport shoes but refer golf successfully one soon learned that he only to those for street and business wear, simply had to have a snappy, breezy For golf, black and white predominated outfit that breathed of the out-of-doors, this summer and seem to be the popular This provided the opportunity for the color for the rest of the year and possibly old instinct in men, which still longed for next summer.
the striking, unusual patterns, to satisfy To the wearer, even more important itself. Forthwith grew up the golfing than the appearance of the shoes is their ensemble, in which full scope was given to comfort. It has often been said with the designers, and golf socks, sweaters truth that a man is no better than his and pullovers of brilliant themes appeared, feet are. If all the ailments and irritations Of late a new creation has appeared in and indispositions of men caused by tight hosiery in the form of a combined sock or ill-fitting shoes could be traced to their and garter which bids fair to become correct source, it would be a revelation.
popular in time. It is now being manufactured in a complete range of sizes and styles by some of the larger hosiery companies, who claim that this serviceable form of hose will soon claim a strong place in men’s affections.
Styles in Shoes
ONE of the least considered, yet one of the most important items in a man’s attire is his footwear. By this it is not meant that men are careless in the choice of the shoes they wear. Far from it. Men as a rule choose their shoes very carefully. But when it comes to seasonal changes or styles, it is another matter. Men are conservative; so much so that styles seem to evolve instead of change in footwear. It takes a long time to bring about a radical change in men’s shoes, and then only by the gradual process of making minute changes from time to time. In fact, in a general way, it is with most men merely a matter of changing the weight of the shoe with the changing seasons. With some, not even that matters.
The low-cut shoes or Oxfords continue to be the leaders of the day. They are the rule from eight to eighty. Nevertheless you will find a number who still prefer boots. The range of color schemes has not broadened a great deal in the past decade, and this year the favorites are black and brown worn to match the attire. A shoe in navy blue has made its
The scientific methods used by Canadian manufacturers enable them to make shoes to fit every type of foot. Complete ranges of sizes are in stock in any wellequipped store, so that there is no need for a person suffering with shoes that do not suit him in every respect. Canadian shoes enjoy a high reputation, not only in Canada but in other countries to which they are shipped.
Is it a Question of Money?
"VX/ITH some people the question of ** being well dressed immediately associates itself with the necessity of having a large income. They think that being well dressed requires one to be rich. They are in something of the position of the woman at whose door a book agent knocked one morning.
“Madam,” he began, “here is a most wonderful book. It tells you all about how to keep your husband.”
“Young man,” she cried shaking her apron in his face, “be off with you and your fool books! Ain’t I been keepin’ my husband now for the last ten years? What I want is a book that’ll teach ’im to go to work an’ keep me—the lazy loafer!”
So it is with these people. It is not a question of increasing one’s income to provide for his dress, but to adopt a system whereby he may be well-dressed within his present budget. It can be
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Continued from page 62 done. Many of the best dressed men are those of modest income but who make up for this by careful and regular attention to the selection and care of their clothes.
Good Value in Canadian-made Clothing
A WORD as to the manufacture of clothing in Canada. For the past few years there seems to have grown up an inferiority complex on the part of the Canadian public in regard to Canadianmade textiles and clothes. Fortunately at present this complex seems to be in a fair way to die out, as the public commences to realize the dollar-for-dollar value that is to be got in Canadian-made clothing and furnishings. But even yet the foreign brand on a garment or on a roll of cloth seems to exert an amazing power over a great number of purchasers. With them an article must be imported or else it must be inferior— that is all there is to it.
Some people seem to think that the only way it is possible to get value for their money is to buy their clothing and furnishings from importers. They overlook the fact that Canadian industries
have just as expert designers, just as skilful workmen, and just as good material to work with. Added to that, they have the tremendous advantage of much less rail and ocean freight charges—all of which must come out of the consumer’s pocket; in many cases more up-to-date methods of manufacture and distribution, and, what is very important, a much more accurate knowledge of existing Canadian styles than the foreign exporter can possibly have.
It is encouraging to the Canadian manufacturer to see that the public is waking up to these facts, and is beginning to realize that in buying goods with a Canadian label it is getting the best that can be produced and at a price which eliminates all added expense.
Canadian men’s stores sell a huge volume of clothing, furnishings, woollen goods and shoes to thousands of visitors annually who tour this country. With them it is no secret that they prefer Canadian-made clothes to those made in their own countries. The Canadian label .s a mark to be desired as far as they are concerned. Why should it be necessary for these summer visitors to show us the way when it comes to appreciating Canadian-made clothes?
