Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Sreezy36]

Hi guys. Having a navy blazer made. Looking for a navy hopsack fabric with the following specs:

4 season
Hard wearing
Matte finish
Lots of texture

Was planning to get the house hopsack from Anglo-Italian, but it is sold out. Any other suggestions? Thank you!

There is no such thing as "4 season cloth" fam. Pick 2 (seasons).

 

[Texasmade]

There is no such thing as "4 season cloth" fam. Pick 2 (seasons).

Depending on where you live, any tailoring is a huge no in the summertime. There's no way I'm wearing any jacket right now in Houston no matter how light weight or breathable the cloth.

 

[Sreezy36]

Depending on where you live, any tailoring is a huge no in the summertime. There's no way I'm wearing any jacket right now in Houston no matter how light weight or breathable the cloth.

Right now only a body suit with a built in air conditioner will suffice.

This heat will make Satan stay inside the house on sunny day.

 

[Ilkless]

By the end of this year, that might just be a reality…

One new one (British style) in Tokyo that some folks here might be interested in. I haven’t had a chance to explore outfits in Yokohama like Arai, but it looks like that is a hotbed for tailoring.

Hmm...

Bespokeman, Fumiya Hirano, Sheets, Blue Shears, Archies, so many good choices 😳

 

[tdang]

Hmm...

Bespokeman, Fumiya Hirano, Sheets, Blue Shears, Archies, so many good choices 😳

One of those guys 😝

But for now, wearing the next tailor’s clothes to meet him for fittings:

 

[tdang]

Lost a bit of weight so K-man’s not completely happy with the fit around the waist (he asked me to bring it to Florence later along with the new delivery to rectify).

Still, yowza.

Brown is 50/50 kid mohair and wool. Mint is pure wool.

New order placed earlier this year:

 

[ZRH1]

I partially agree, in a sense that there are hot and cold times in a year.

A suit that goes well in autumn and spring, when it is fresher, can work better with layers, ie. coat, so I consider two types of suits.

1x hot (open weave + linen, both unlined) and 1x cold (heavy, lined). This is my conclusion after a decade of bespoke.

There is no such thing as "4 season cloth" fam. Pick 2 (seasons).

 

[potter AB]

Hi guys. Having a navy blazer made. Looking for a navy hopsack fabric with the following specs:

4 season
Hard wearing
Matte finish
Lots of texture

Was planning to get the house hopsack from Anglo-Italian, but it is sold out. Any other suggestions? Thank you!

Perhaps the Harrison's Springram 98274?
It is hard wearing and does have a lot of texture, which you can see in the last pic of this:

 

[reidd]

Hi guys. Having a navy blazer made. Looking for a navy hopsack fabric with the following specs:

4 season
Hard wearing
Matte finish
Lots of texture

Was planning to get the house hopsack from Anglo-Italian, but it is sold out. Any other suggestions? Thank you!

I find jacketings are inherently not hard wearing. The more open and loosely set the weave, the more prone to snagging. I recently had a disaster walking through the airport in a mock leno. Thankfully have gotten it well repaired but that is the only cloth that has ever actually RIPPED on me from a snag.

Obviously there are levels of durability within jacketing so not trying to talk you out of it (love my mock leno otherwise). Just a word of caution from personal experience! Tighter weaves/closer to suiting type jacketing cloth will probably hold up better over time.

For navy hopsack, I would be looking at Fox. Pretty sure they have several weights and shades.

 

[classicalthunde]

I find jacketings are inherently not hard wearing. The more open and loosely set the weave, the more prone to snagging. I recently had a disaster walking through the airport in a mock leno. Thankfully have gotten it well repaired but that is the only cloth that has ever actually RIPPED on me from a snag.

Obviously there are levels of durability within jacketing so not trying to talk you out of it (love my mock leno otherwise). Just a word of caution from personal experience! Tighter weaves/closer to suiting type jacketing cloth will probably hold up better over time.

For navy hopsack, I would be looking at Fox. Pretty sure they have several weights and shades.

I find twills to be the most hard wearing fabric of my items. I have a blazer made out of H&S Cape Horn that has stood up to plenty of abuse...however the twill tends to lean a bit more formal than a textured hopsack.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

I find jacketings are inherently not hard wearing. The more open and loosely set the weave, the more prone to snagging. I recently had a disaster walking through the airport in a mock leno. Thankfully have gotten it well repaired but that is the only cloth that has ever actually RIPPED on me from a snag.

Obviously there are levels of durability within jacketing so not trying to talk you out of it (love my mock leno otherwise). Just a word of caution from personal experience! Tighter weaves/closer to suiting type jacketing cloth will probably hold up better over time.

For navy hopsack, I would be looking at Fox. Pretty sure they have several weights and shades.

Except Fox discontinued Fox Sport for some inexplicable reason, and you can no longer get a straight navy hopsack/basketweave.

 

[classicalthunde]

Except Fox discontinued Fox Sport for some inexplicable reason, and you can no longer get a straight navy hopsack/basketweave.

baseless speculation, but I wonder if they outsourced that fabric to Taylor and Lodge which shuttered a couple of months ago...

 

[DaAlSh]

baseless speculation, but I wonder if they outsourced that fabric to Taylor and Lodge which shuttered a couple of months ago...

Very likely, given that they outsource the majority of their fabrics.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

baseless speculation, but I wonder if they outsourced that fabric to Taylor and Lodge which shuttered a couple of months ago...

I think I posted some pages back speculating the same. I'd guess yes, especially given their heavy weight midnight hopsack "Fox Drop" fabric appears to be the T&L Archive Blazer fabric.

 

[classicalthunde]

I think I posted some pages back speculating the same. I'd guess yes, especially given their heavy weight midnight hopsack "Fox Drop" fabric appears to be the T&L Archive Blazer fabric.

Wild considering the Archive Blazer was 65GBP per meter when ordering from T&L when it was open