Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[jonathanS]

I didn't say he trained Ciccio or Raffaniello. I meant that he significantly predates the current crop of Japanese tailors like them going over to Europe, without garnering near as much attention (perhaps partly because of lack of trunk shows).

He still personally fits clients, so I imagine the main time savings are in drafting the first baste since it’s printed all at once for him to adjust. And then feeding back his adjustments to the system.

Oh I misread that. I agree there are a lot of tailors in Japan that get hyped up by the international trunk show crowd (the armoury or last & lapel). Raffaniello, for example, spent 90 days learning in Napoli. If I’m not mistaken, the bulk of his training was at ring jacket. It just seems a little dishonest to call his 90 day apprenticeship training in Italy (compared to Jun or Ciccio who spent years in Napoli).

I think the other reason why ypsilon isn’t as well talked about on English forums is that he doesn’t have a flashy instagram. But he’s an old maestro nonetheless. And his resume of sartorias he has worked at is quite interesting.

One smaller point, you wanted a caraceni jacket. While, I think his silhouette is Milanese, I’m not sure I’d call it traditional caraceni.

Dear Sir,

Thank you for sharing your bespoke experience here; a detailed post is always greatly appreciated!

I know a thing or two of Ermenegildo Zegna fabrics, your chosen "Trofeo" is a really nice one, but it is a 100% suiting fabric. Thus, I strongly recommend you to complete the suit by immediately ordering its accompanying trousers, and use it exclusively according to its destined use.

That said, this is far from being a "casual" fabric and I urge you to re-consider using it as such, "with denim or chambray". There will be jacketing fabrics that will perfectly do this job!

Something to think about...


Best,

Dimitris

I tend to agree with this. You’ll also always have the trousers but you can’t go backwards if you change your mind later.

 

[Ilkless]

Oh I misread that. I agree there are a lot of tailors in Japan that get hyped up by the international trunk show crowd (the armoury or last & lapel). Raffaniello, for example, spent 90 days learning in Napoli. If I’m not mistaken, the bulk of his training was at ring jacket. It just seems a little dishonest to call his 90 day apprenticeship training in Italy (compared to Jun or Ciccio who spent years in Napoli).

I think the other reason why ypsilon isn’t as well talked about on English forums is that he doesn’t have a flashy instagram. But he’s an old maestro nonetheless. And his resume of sartorias he has worked at is quite interesting.

One smaller point, you wanted a caraceni jacket. While, I think his silhouette is Milanese, I’m not sure I’d call it traditional caraceni.

I tend to agree with this. You’ll also always have the trousers but you can’t go backwards if you change your mind later.

FWIW, I asked him how he felt his house style changed from the Tommy and Giulio Caraceni of his time. He said "not much". His structured make seems to hew quite closely (slightly bellied wide lapels, relatively low gorge, waist suppression, swelled chest). But his lighter unpadded make, probably more distant. Either way I was really taken by the overall front/back balance and buttoning point he picked for this.

I still think the overall hue and the overcheck does sway this away from just suiting, but I take the point.

 

[camez_]

Dear Sir,

Thank you for sharing your bespoke experience here; a detailed post is always greatly appreciated!

I know a thing or two of Ermenegildo Zegna fabrics, your chosen "Trofeo" is a really nice one, but it is a 100% suiting fabric. Thus, I strongly recommend you to complete the suit by immediately ordering its accompanying trousers, and use it exclusively according to its destined use.

That said, this is far from being a "casual" fabric and I urge you to re-consider using it as such, "with denim or chambray". There will be jacketing fabrics that will perfectly do this job!

Something to think about...


Best,

Dimitris

Thomas Mason

although, I've looked at different options and also liked the Canclini one - I'll order that as well with my next order with them

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Thomas Mason

although, I've looked at different options and also liked the Canclini one - I'll order that as well with my next order with them

Thank you!

If you can manage and get more of the denim one, it might be interesting...

I am always fond of their mid-hue as well, (the upper fabric in the same Thomas Mason image that I have posted in the past), could it be found as well?

Best,

Dimitris

 

[paborden]

About wrapped up on two orders of WBill linen, one khaki, one oatmeal. Trying to determine what button shade to order given my tailor didn't have any on hand that I liked.

Anyone have any thoughts on which way to go?

I kind of think the dark brown is fine but I'm also torn...

 

[oldworldelegance]

About wrapped up on two orders of WBill linen, one khaki, one oatmeal. Trying to determine what button shade to order given my tailor didn't have any on hand that I liked.

Anyone have any thoughts on which way to go?

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I kind of think the dark brown is fine but I'm also torn...

Both would work, but I think the fawn would be more interesting.

 

[_AMD]

About wrapped up on two orders of WBill linen, one khaki, one oatmeal. Trying to determine what button shade to order given my tailor didn't have any on hand that I liked.

Anyone have any thoughts on which way to go?

View attachment 2202543

View attachment 2202545

View attachment 2202547

I kind of think the dark brown is fine but I'm also torn...

I prefer the lighter, more mottled buttons on that cloth.

 

[yanagi]

I prefer the lighter, more mottled buttons on that cloth.

Another vote for the first (mottled) set.

 

[twuthetiger]

Cifonelli flying to NYC for a trunk show 👀

 

[lordsuperb]

Cifonelli flying to NYC for a trunk show 👀

Buy more Pirozzi!

 

[aristoi bcn]

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These bad boys should be waiting for me as I get home today. Can’t wait.

Also in the works - a navy narrow-wale corduroy suit (1B, peak SB) by Francis Paley; a couple of things by Corcos (grey sharkskin suit, charcoal covert cloth trousers, tweed overcoat), a first pair of shoes by Seiji McCarthy (dark brown grain Norwegians), and a suit in the London Lounge POW RAF flannel. Exciting times

R-O-T

Lovely choice. Thinking about a navy needlecord suit myself to be made by Salabianca. May we have the details of your chosen cloth?

 

[R.O. Thornhill]

It’s the Scabal corduroy with a touch of cashmere. Here it is. First fitting was really promising

 

[__k]

First bespoke orders - paying school fees I guess. Learning as I go.

Gray herringbone Harris Tweed with Yamamoto-san. Very happy with how this is coming along. Started the order in Feb and will likely be back at the end of this year to pick it up. Brown shetland in first photo unfortunately not mine.

Sport coat with #mbt in Finmerseco mock leno SW4143. Looking back, probably should have asked to have this lengthened.

 

[__k]

A couple #mbt's probably wanted to strangle me for wearing an oversized t-shirt to the fittings.. this was one of them.

2-piece suit in Dugdale New Fine Worsted with the same #mbt that did the herringbone jacket for @tdang. terrible mirror photos. Bagging at left knee since pinned to shorten slightly.

Pretty sure this is mine.

 

[paborden]

Another button question because I’m ridiculous.

About to order a traditional blue white seersucker. Seen a lot of these with white MOP buttons.

Which do we all like better, white MOP or white horn? I feel like MOP can be a bit much.