Help Needed Choosing Chelsea Boot

[cwh5552]

RM Williams

Any feedback on the one's I just posted? They look incredible. And a very versatile style.

 

[Maturin]

When considering the many MANY versions of Chelsea that RM Williams offers I might suggest attention to three matters. First, notice width. Chelseas are snug and need to be but imo RMW run slightly narrow. If you have a lot of volume or width consider more width. Second, the toe might be rounded or chiseled. The more traditional is the latter but do note the difference in looks. Last, the soles might be leather or some kind of rubber. I love my leather soles but they are slipping and will take in more moisture in winter. These are great boots in any iteration.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Hello Styleforum Fam!

This is my first post here (so I hope I posted in the correct spot)... but I've been back and forth trying to find a great classic black chelsea boot that can go with just about anything. Right now, I am between three brands:

Top Tier ($800+): Saint Laurent Wyatt Chelsea Boots 30mm

View attachment 1847928

Middle Tier ($300-$500): To Boot New York (Myles) and Scarosso's Eric Black Chelsea Boot (Prada Brushed calf alternative?)

To Boot Myles:

View attachment 1847926

Scarosso:
View attachment 1847927

A few characteristics of a boot I am keeping in mind are (the last, welt, and quality of leather). If I have to spend more to get a better quality boot that I'll have for longer, I am more than willing to.

For reference, I have a size 11.5 D foot.

Does anyone have any experiences owning or read reviews on the above boots and have feedback? I am also open to other brands that fit a similar look to the boots I've mentioned.

Thank you so much!

Connor

You have a couple fairly different options here. Setting aside the expected knee jerk SF reaction about quality yada, yada fashion brands, yada yada” it would help to know how you plan to wear them because throwing out random brands and suggestions at different price points might not line up with how you want to use them.

SLP Wyatt isn’t necessarily a bad decision - particularly if you’re looking for something to wear in a punk rock SLP heroin chic aesthetic. A welted boot will necessarily have a wider welt than a blake stitched boot.

If you’re looking for a sort of do everything option though, yeah there are better choices out there. I’d recommend you settle on the aesthetic first and then work within that aesthetic to find a last and size that fit your feet.

 

[vollblut]

I wore good quality Italian-made Chelsea boots for years, but in my experience the elastic sides eventually became stretched and loose.

I've had better long-term results with lace up Derby boots instead.

 

[cwh5552]

You have a couple fairly different options here. Setting aside the expected knee jerk SF reaction about quality yada, yada fashion brands, yada yada” it would help to know how you plan to wear them because throwing out random brands and suggestions at different price points might not line up with how you want to use them.

SLP Wyatt isn’t necessarily a bad decision - particularly if you’re looking for something to wear in a punk rock SLP heroin chic aesthetic. A welted boot will necessarily have a wider welt than a blake stitched boot.

If you’re looking for a sort of do everything option though, yeah there are better choices out there. I’d recommend you settle on the aesthetic first and then work within that aesthetic to find a last and size that fit your feet.

This is very helpful. I am looking for a chelsea boot that I can wear either with a nice pair of wool trousers all the way down to a straight pair of jeans for example. Not going after any type of super dressy look nor a rugged look... instead a pair that is simply versatile.

Aesthetics that I appreciate in a chelsea boot are a slightly higher shaft (which is why I like the YSL), slight shine to the leather (black is the color I am after currently), and a round or (preferably) almond shaped toe. Thoughts?

 

[JohnMRobie]

This is very helpful. I am looking for a chelsea boot that I can wear either with a nice pair of wool trousers all the way down to a straight pair of jeans for example. Not going after any type of super dressy look nor a rugged look... instead a pair that is simply versatile.

Aesthetics that I appreciate in a chelsea boot are a slightly higher shaft (which is why I like the YSL), slight shine to the leather (black is the color I am after currently), and a round or (preferably) almond shaped toe. Thoughts?

The thing about the Wyatt is that it’s very sleek (why it uniquely works so well for the Hedi Slimane aesthetic).

Some options others suggested work well. IMO with what you describe I’d avoid smooth black calf, would go less sleek, might go black grain. Black Chelseas are tough to me because they do either the Beatles look, the Blundstone look or the Hedi Slimane look well but crossing over and filling multiple roles is tough. Finding an in-between there are just better options to look at. Something sleek enough to wear with tailored clothes will look off with casual denim. Something casual enough to work with denim will look out of place with tailored clothing. For whatever it’s worth from a random stranger on the internet, my sleekish black calf Chelsea’s are among my least worn shoes because they demand a unique look.

RM Williams I think either has chiseled or round - Almond has a different vibe than it sounds like you’re after with a higher heel - 45mm not 30.

Edward Green’s Newmarket has a higher shaft. I believe you can get this made up in black utah or black English grain.

Carmina is a decent choice because they have a million lasts and easy customization. Should be able to find something that fits the balance.

Allen Edmonds and Blundstone are probably more casual than you’re after.

I think I’d think about why you’re after a chelsea boot - how it fits into your wardrobe and what you like to wear and go from there.

 

[t0ronto]

RM Williams comfort craftsman in black. The perfect chelsea boot as far as I'm concerned. Goodyear welted, whole cut from supple yearling leather, elegant aesthetic, and more than reasonable price for what you're getting.

 

[Thin White Duke]

You have a couple fairly different options here. Setting aside the expected knee jerk SF reaction about quality yada, yada fashion brands, yada yada” it would help to know how you plan to wear them because throwing out random brands and suggestions at different price points might not line up with how you want to use them.

SLP Wyatt isn’t necessarily a bad decision - particularly if you’re looking for something to wear in a punk rock SLP heroin chic aesthetic. A welted boot will necessarily have a wider welt than a blake stitched boot.

If you’re looking for a sort of do everything option though, yeah there are better choices out there. I’d recommend you settle on the aesthetic first and then work within that aesthetic to find a last and size that fit your feet.

Excellent post here and I’m glad the OP took it on board.
I have five pairs of Chelseas covering abroad range of prices andformalities. One brand not yet mentioned is a Meermin at the lower end of your price range. They have a variety of options so you could buy two pairs for the price of an EG or SLP. I got a black pair of wholecuts in their flex welt and rubber city sole. The last shape is medium-narrow rounded and the leather is not mirror shiny so they are very adaptable. Also look at Morjas at a similar quality / price.

I have Carminas in burgundy with a combination rubber leather sole. These are shiny calf with a narrow last so more formal, my only gripe is that the elastic gores look like they are just on the point of going all flobbery on a couple of sides. This is the one thing I dislike about Chelseas and there seems to be no correlation between the price /quality / brand reputation and the propensity to do this.

 

[rgweiser53]

Awesome feedback! What about Carmina? They seem like a reasonably priced boot for the quality. Maybe a good one to start with?

Carmina is the way to go!

 

[smittycl]

I wear Chesea Boots both casually and with tailoring. Mine are all C&J. I'm sure EG are fantastic but I haven't tried them yet.

Lingfield with tailoring or nicer casual.

Lingfield Black Calf

Lingfield, a plain fronted Chelsea boot made from the finest black calf leather and single leather soles. From the Men's Main Collection.

us.crockettandjones.com

Lingfield Dark Brown Burnished Calf

Lingfield, a plain fronted Chelsea boot made from the finest dark brown burnished calf leather and single leather soles. From the Men's Main Collection.

us.crockettandjones.com

Chelsea V with the more rounded look for casual wear.

Chelsea 5 Dark Brown Wax Calf

Chelsea 5, a Chelsea boot made from fine quality dark brown waxed calf leather for added water resistance, with Dainite rubber soles. From the Men's Main Collection.

us.crockettandjones.com

 

[smittycl]

Carmina is the way to go!

Never tried the Chelseas but their shoes were always too narrow for me.

 

[thedavidstarr]

I would recommend not going with YSL or To Boot NY. YSL is a luxury brand that doesn't do much in terms of quality shoes and their name is why they can charge Edward Green level prices without having Edward Green level quality.

Likewise, To Boot NY is not especially that great.

My suggestion would be:

Good quality/price: https://www.allenedmonds.com/mens-shoes/boots/chelsea?icid=TopNav_Boots_Chelsea

Higher quality/price: https://us.crockettandjones.com/collections/mens-chelsea-boot-collection

Highest quality/price: https://www.edwardgreen.com/shop/newmarket-black-calf-black-82-last.html

I’ve just recently ordered a pair of AE and C&J. Received the AE waiting on the C&J. I like the big toe box of AE but truthfully the shoe looks pretty chunky. Which sort of defeats the purpose of a Chelsea which is supposed to be a boot yet sleak. So I’m not sure what to do. Waiting for my C&J to compare.

 

[Tony L Australia]

I have about 10 pairs of Chelsea boots. Lots of R M Williams, given I am Australian ! Love my 2 pairs of John Lobb Lawry boots, BUT, my Edward Greens are the ultimate Chelsea boots. Camden model in Utah leatrher are simply superb, and for a hardy looking boot my EG Govan. They are not cheap, but they will last for years. And if you are patient you will find them discounted, or you can get some on EBay slightly used. They are soooo comfortable, and so cool in design.

 

[thedavidstarr]

When considering the many MANY versions of Chelsea that RM Williams offers I might suggest attention to three matters. First, notice width. Chelseas are snug and need to be but imo RMW run slightly narrow. If you have a lot of volume or width consider more width. Second, the toe might be rounded or chiseled. The more traditional is the latter but do note the difference in looks. Last, the soles might be leather or some kind of rubber. I love my leather soles but they are slipping and will take in more moisture in winter. These are great boots in any iteration.

That was my point too. I need the bigger toe box(orthotic insert and bunion) and the comfort sole. But then you run the risk of losing the sleek look of the boot as it molds up your foot to the ankle. As I said the AE doesn’t look very sleek but it’s comfy.

 

[thedavidstarr]

I’ve just recently ordered a pair of AE and C&J. Received the AE waiting on the C&J. I like the big toe box of AE but truthfully the shoe looks pretty chunky. Which sort of defeats the purpose of a Chelsea which is supposed to be a boot yet sleak. So I’m not sure what to do. Waiting for my C&J to compare.

I have about 10 pairs of Chelsea boots. Lots of R M Williams, given I am Australian ! Love my 2 pairs of John Lobb Lawry boots, BUT, my Edward Greens are the ultimate Chelsea boots. Camden model in Utah leatrher are simply superb, and for a hardy looking boot my EG Govan. They are not cheap, but they will last for years. And if you are patient you will find them discounted, or you can get some on EBay slightly used. They are soooo comfortable, and so cool in design.

I just noticed that EG doesn’t seem to have larger sizes beyond UK11