Help Needed Choosing Chelsea Boot

[shirtingfantasy]

I will add to what has been said by stressing that in the case of Chelseas, perhaps more than any other shoe (with the exception of loafers), fit is essential. As many have mentioned, the elastic sides don't really provide support so the shape of the leather is doing all the work. thus, starting with a nice fitting last is THE most important aspect of selection.

depending on your foot of course, the biggest problem I've found with Chelseas (I've owned 10-12, right now just have 3) is the shape of the heel counter and waist. if the heel is too wide or not structured enough, it'll be a nightmare to wear because your foot will continuously slide. if the heel and waist are tight and adapt well to the shape of your foot then you can have extra space in the forefoot and the shoe will still feel set in place and stable.

that is why a brand like Carmina is a great alternative: you can first try on at least 4-5 of their lasts, and then build the Chelsea you want around that last (grain or smooth leather, wholecut or traditional 3 piece, storm or regular welt, single, double leather or rubber sole, etc.). they have chiseled lasts, almond toe lasts, round toe lasts, wide or narrow, etc. But any other company that offers the same level of customization or variety of lasts will work, and there are both higher and lower end companies that do this. of course, the alternative is to find a last/model from a company that works for you OTR, which does happen for a lot of people, but requires you go to multiple stores and also a bit of luck.

Some suggest sizing up for boots, I think it only works if you wear thicker socks when wearing boots in general.

Many poor fit issues are in fact wrong size / last. Just that people don’t see the heel gap when they buy a pair of boots.

Boots that fit well should be very difficult to take off.

 

[Shoeaffic]

What are the pros and cons of whole cut chelsea boots/any shoe in general that every maker of it touts about?

less seams means the leather can better stretch to adapt to your foot, and therefore in principle, a more comfortable fit. seams do not stretch, and often require overlapping layers of leather that, even when skiving occurs, can still feel uncomfortable when it presses against the skin. but to the majority of people it's unnoticeable, especially when the seams are well placed in the pattern and the last/shoe fits your foot well.

 

[Maturin]

Almost every whole cut leather is more expensive and fewer seams means fewer places the leather can stretch or fail. But as @Shoeaffic said it's more important that the last fits and a proper pattern will take care of the rest. In the end whole cut is a matter of what you prefer, quality notwithstanding. There are so many good Chelseas these days, soooo many: RMWilliams, Carmina, Lofgren, EG, Crockett&J, the list goes on and on. All of these brands will hold up well under hard use.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Guys showing up to talk about shoes on SF like

 

[superfrog]

Hello Styleforum Fam!

This is my first post here (so I hope I posted in the correct spot)... but I've been back and forth trying to find a great classic black chelsea boot that can go with just about anything. Right now, I am between three brands:

Top Tier ($800+): Saint Laurent Wyatt Chelsea Boots 30mm

View attachment 1847928

Middle Tier ($300-$500): To Boot New York (Myles) and Scarosso's Eric Black Chelsea Boot (Prada Brushed calf alternative?)

To Boot Myles:

View attachment 1847926

Scarosso:
View attachment 1847927

A few characteristics of a boot I am keeping in mind are (the last, welt, and quality of leather). If I have to spend more to get a better quality boot that I'll have for longer, I am more than willing to.

For reference, I have a size 11.5 D foot.

Does anyone have any experiences owning or read reviews on the above boots and have feedback? I am also open to other brands that fit a similar look to the boots I've mentioned.

Thank you so much!

Connor

Hello,

I would go with Crockett and Jones chelsea without waisting my time with otehr brands. Why?

1. Best fit
2. Leather quality
3. Goodyear welt
4. Price you can't beat for all the above.

Just remember that Crockett and Jones used to make the shoes for JOHN LOBB in the late 90's so it is no wonder they still make the best shoes in the world for the money with a pedigree like this.
As good would be JM Weston but a little bit pricier.
Good luck with teh search. Be seeing you
N6

 

[thedavidstarr]

Anyone noticed how annoying snobby these makers are re the way they discuss LASTS? They use their own nomenclature as if you’re supposed to know “this is a pointy one” or “this is a round big toe box one”. Ridiculous

 

[pianopad]

Does anyone have experience with Gaziano Girling Burnham boot?

 

[ZimYana]

I would recommend not going with YSL or To Boot NY. YSL is a luxury brand that doesn't do much in terms of quality shoes and their name is why they can charge Edward Green level prices without having Edward Green level quality.

Likewise, To Boot NY is not especially that great.

My suggestion would be:

Good quality/price: https://www.allenedmonds.com/mens-shoes/boots/chelsea?icid=TopNav_Boots_Chelsea

Higher quality/price: https://us.crockettandjones.com/collections/mens-chelsea-boot-collection

Highest quality/price: https://www.edwardgreen.com/shop/newmarket-black-calf-black-82-last.html

well said! nothing beats the quality of EG, C&J

 

[sash1642]

What are the pros and cons of whole cut chelsea boots/any shoe in general that every maker of it touts about?

Whole cut are more comfortable, less seams, stretch and shape to your foot better

 

[TimothyF]

As someone who's interested in chunky rather than sleek, what are some good options? (say on a spectrum from RM Williams to Blundstone aesthetics, I'd be closer to Blundstone, but not at)

Not sure why Viberg chelsea boots are not mentioned here, as they are wholecut. Has their quality slipped, or they don't represent good value? (This being my first foray into elastic boots, I may go with what I can try on in local stores)

Any chelsea boots with following features would be of interest. Being pragmatic, I'm willing to trade around features 2-4 while being firm on 1. Thanks!

1. No sleak/pointy/elongated last
2. No shiny dressy leather (suedes, grains, waxed leathers welcome)
3. Good sole for walking long distance (e.g. crepe which I haven't tried before)
4. Good price point, because of course

 

[K. Nights]

Red Wing's "Classic Chelsea" is pretty nice for a casual boot. I think they also have a suede version

Paraboot and Heschung also have some good options, but more expensive and difficult to get if you're in North America.

 

[breakaway01]

As someone who's interested in chunky rather than sleek, what are some good options? (say on a spectrum from RM Williams to Blundstone aesthetics, I'd be closer to Blundstone, but not at)

Not sure why Viberg chelsea boots are not mentioned here, as they are wholecut. Has their quality slipped, or they don't represent good value? (This being my first foray into elastic boots, I may go with what I can try on in local stores)

Any chelsea boots with following features would be of interest. Being pragmatic, I'm willing to trade around features 2-4 while being firm on 1. Thanks!

1. No sleak/pointy/elongated last
2. No shiny dressy leather (suedes, grains, waxed leathers welcome)
3. Good sole for walking long distance (e.g. crepe which I haven't tried before)
4. Good price point, because of course

If you’re willing to consider side-zip boots, I’d also look at Buttero e.g. their Floyd model.

 

[TimothyF]

Red Wing's "Classic Chelsea" is pretty nice for a casual boot. I think they also have a suede version
View attachment 2062983

Paraboot and Heschung also have some good options, but more expensive and difficult to get if you're in North America.

Thank you for the Red Wing suggestion! Had a chance to try some on, and while I found the pattern/stitching a bit weird, one model did seem relatively comfortable once I got it on (3190)

Some more thoughts

• Red Wing wedge sole feel really comfortable and supportive. I wonder if the walking experience would bear it out? (1+ hours)
• They are a b@$#% to get on and off (I guess I didn’t think through the fact that without lacing the ankle opening is only about as wide as the ankle). Is this just a feature of well-fitting Chelseas? ‘Cause I may have to rethink the whole thing, as the attraction was easy on/off
• Leather is stiff, digging into the calf at the top. Hoping it would soften, but would love perspective from long-term owners

 

[zippyh]

Tricker’s Henry is the opposite of sleek and pointy if you don’t mind a wingtip. Tricker’s Stephen for a plain toe.

C&J Chelsea 5 too.

I like the Viberg Chelsea too.

 

[K. Nights]

Thank you for the Red Wing suggestion! Had a chance to try some on, and while I found the pattern/stitching a bit weird, one model did seem relatively comfortable once I got it on (3190)

Some more thoughts

• Red Wing wedge sole feel really comfortable and supportive. I wonder if the walking experience would bear it out? (1+ hours)
• They are a b@$#% to get on and off (I guess I didn’t think through the fact that without lacing the ankle opening is only about as wide as the ankle). Is this just a feature of well-fitting Chelseas? ‘Cause I may have to rethink the whole thing, as the attraction was easy on/off
• Leather is stiff, digging into the calf at the top. Hoping it would soften, but would love perspective from long-term owners

Red Wing leather is known to break in and soften considerably. I would think the calf pain would reduce over time. Maybe throw on some thick socks and walk around your house.