Help Needed Choosing Chelsea Boot

[Tony L Australia]

I just noticed that EG doesn’t seem to have larger sizes beyond UK11

Sorry to hear that. As a size 7.5 UK I don't have that problem ! And btw, I would add that EG size small....a UK 7 is more like a UK 7.5, a 7.5 like an 8.

 

[corgi invasion]

It‘s an advantage if you can try them on, chelseas are harder to fit. I‘ve moved two pairs on that I bought online (Carmina, Skoaktiebolaget) because the heel was too wide for my foot.

Trying to find the perfect all rounder might be difficult, might be more realistic to just go for the sleek black look that you fancy, and save up for a more rounded suede/grain casual one later.

 

[thedavidstarr]

I wear Chesea Boots both casually and with tailoring. Mine are all C&J. I'm sure EG are fantastic but I haven't tried them yet.

Lingfield with tailoring or nicer casual.

Lingfield Black Calf

Lingfield, a plain fronted Chelsea boot made from the finest black calf leather and single leather soles. From the Men's Main Collection.

us.crockettandjones.com

Lingfield Dark Brown Burnished Calf

Lingfield, a plain fronted Chelsea boot made from the finest dark brown burnished calf leather and single leather soles. From the Men's Main Collection.

us.crockettandjones.com

Chelsea V with the more rounded look for casual wear.

Chelsea 5 Dark Brown Wax Calf

Chelsea 5, a Chelsea boot made from fine quality dark brown waxed calf leather for added water resistance, with Dainite rubber soles. From the Men's Main Collection.

us.crockettandjones.com

they also have the Chelsea 11 which I think is a round toe. Not sure how that compares to the 5

 

[thedavidstarr]

I wear Chesea Boots both casually and with tailoring. Mine are all C&J. I'm sure EG are fantastic but I haven't tried them yet.

Lingfield with tailoring or nicer casual.

Lingfield Black Calf

Lingfield, a plain fronted Chelsea boot made from the finest black calf leather and single leather soles. From the Men's Main Collection.

us.crockettandjones.com

Lingfield Dark Brown Burnished Calf

Lingfield, a plain fronted Chelsea boot made from the finest dark brown burnished calf leather and single leather soles. From the Men's Main Collection.

us.crockettandjones.com

Chelsea V with the more rounded look for casual wear.

Chelsea 5 Dark Brown Wax Calf

Chelsea 5, a Chelsea boot made from fine quality dark brown waxed calf leather for added water resistance, with Dainite rubber soles. From the Men's Main Collection.

us.crockettandjones.com

Is their Chelsea 11 more or less rounded than their Chelsea 5?

 

[shirtingfantasy]

Saint Laurent Wyatt, considered by our OP, has strong design elements. It probably cannot be the 1st choice by welted shoe enthusiasts, but it does have very nice and positively distinctive look.

I like chelsea boots. Had owned 6 pairs (including RM Williams comfort craftsman and CJ Lingfield in the past) but my collection has been revised to 4 very recently - calf 2x, shell 2x. I think they already cover a wide-range of use cases.

1. Edward Green “Camden” in black Utah (last 82, slim rubber sole)


2. Berluti “Caractère” chelsea in Venezia crust leather (last Eclair, single leather sole)


3. Meermin “141050” in Horween #8 shell cordovan (last Hiro, City lug sole) [wholecut]


4. Antonio Meccariello “Pilus Prior” in Horween bourbon shell cordovan (last Chisel 3, studded Vibram sole) [wholecut]

 

[thedavidstarr]

It‘s an advantage if you can try them on, chelseas are harder to fit. I‘ve moved two pairs on that I bought online (Carmina, Skoaktiebolaget) because the heel was too wide for my foot.

Trying to find the perfect all rounder might be difficult, might be more realistic to just go for the sleek black look that you fancy, and save up for a more rounded suede/grain casual one later.

definitely the peril re online shopping. Which makes Return policy important since it’ll take some time to get to the right choice

 

[smittycl]

Is their Chelsea 11 more or less rounded than their Chelsea 5?

Never tried the 11. One store here in DC has the 5 and Lingfield. The others will be at the NYC shop which I get to once or twice a year. Love the Grantham 2 loafers as well.

 

[shortlefty]

What are the pros and cons of whole cut chelsea boots/any shoe in general that every maker of it touts about?

 

[jack webb]

Here's my all-purpose advice for those seeking to purchase Chelsea boots:

Get chukkas instead.

 

[Bhav]

This is very helpful. I am looking for a chelsea boot that I can wear either with a nice pair of wool trousers all the way down to a straight pair of jeans for example. Not going after any type of super dressy look nor a rugged look... instead a pair that is simply versatile.

Aesthetics that I appreciate in a chelsea boot are a slightly higher shaft (which is why I like the YSL), slight shine to the leather (black is the color I am after currently), and a round or (preferably) almond shaped toe. Thoughts?

Late to the party but I wear Grant Stone chelseas (brown calf) in cool and inclement weather with either trousers or jeans. GS has a black calf model with a tonal welt and rubber sole. The shaft isn't as high as your stated preference, but IMO the totality of the boot design makes it more versatile than anything from YSL. /2cents.

 

[harlequin782]

My recommendation is TLB Mallorca - Artista - Goya last. You may have to do an MTO to get the wholecut on a round toe almond shaped last like the Goya or Oliver, but its definitely worth it. Beautiful almond toe, sleek but also easily transitions to casual, incredible leather quality, very well made at a price thats not over the top expensive (slightly cheaper than Carmina, which is also a great recommendation.), and TLB will have it on your doorstep in 1-2 weeks (vs possibly waiting months for Carmina). TLB fits all your criteria except maybe the superhigh ankle shaft requirement. It only has a medium ankle shaft height.

But I can honestly say, you wont regret this style from TLB.

But barring TLB Mallorca, my next recommendation (or equally smart choice, really) would definitely be Carmina, and then AE (or Meermin) if you want to stay at a lower pricepoint but still get very good quality.

 

[Shoeaffic]

I will add to what has been said by stressing that in the case of Chelseas, perhaps more than any other shoe (with the exception of loafers), fit is essential. As many have mentioned, the elastic sides don't really provide support so the shape of the leather is doing all the work. thus, starting with a nice fitting last is THE most important aspect of selection.

depending on your foot of course, the biggest problem I've found with Chelseas (I've owned 10-12, right now just have 3) is the shape of the heel counter and waist. if the heel is too wide or not structured enough, it'll be a nightmare to wear because your foot will continuously slide. if the heel and waist are tight and adapt well to the shape of your foot then you can have extra space in the forefoot and the shoe will still feel set in place and stable.

that is why a brand like Carmina is a great alternative: you can first try on at least 4-5 of their lasts, and then build the Chelsea you want around that last (grain or smooth leather, wholecut or traditional 3 piece, storm or regular welt, single, double leather or rubber sole, etc.). they have chiseled lasts, almond toe lasts, round toe lasts, wide or narrow, etc. But any other company that offers the same level of customization or variety of lasts will work, and there are both higher and lower end companies that do this. of course, the alternative is to find a last/model from a company that works for you OTR, which does happen for a lot of people, but requires you go to multiple stores and also a bit of luck.

 

[corgi invasion]

Interesting cautionary tale, bad sizing in cordovan chelseas, the rolls looked like Alf‘s nose instead of an elegant Silhouette:

 

[JFWR]

I’ve just recently ordered a pair of AE and C&J. Received the AE waiting on the C&J. I like the big toe box of AE but truthfully the shoe looks pretty chunky. Which sort of defeats the purpose of a Chelsea which is supposed to be a boot yet sleak. So I’m not sure what to do. Waiting for my C&J to compare.

Take it back if you don't like the shape.

 

[shirtingfantasy]

What are the pros and cons of whole cut chelsea boots/any shoe in general that every maker of it touts about?

They are more difficult and expensive to make, providing a SF-validated talking point and bragging right.