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  1. J. Cogburn

    3 button suits really out of style?

    I think that DB and hard 3Bs are so difficult to fit well off the wrack that if you're going that route, you should go bespoke if you can afford it. If you like 2Bs, on the other hand, you can do just fine with off the wrack purchases and a good tailor to tidy things up. That's how I roll...
  3. J. Cogburn

    Model conservative business dress Office Dress Code?

    I'm running a 501(c)(3) political nonprofit. My employees will be interacting extensively with legislators, Hill members, administrative agency personnel, the media, career civil servants, lobbyists, trade association reps, and activist organizations who spend their time on Capital Hill. Hence...
  4. J. Cogburn

    Model conservative business dress Office Dress Code?

    Fellas, I'm now the boss and, in the course of getting my new business off the ground, I want to provide a written dress code. Because this is a white collar office dealing with Washington political types, I need my employees to embrace conservative business dress. Has anyone produced a good...
  5. J. Cogburn

    Definitive "Books on Menswear" Thread

     It's really amazing how hard it is to find that stuff. I remember a few years ago going to the Library of a Congress one weekend to unearth the bound editions but to my disappointment found that almost every issue was cut to pieces by people who would remove large swaths of the pages. And...
  6. J. Cogburn

    Definitive "Books on Menswear" Thread

     Excellent book.
  7. J. Cogburn

    Definitive "Books on Menswear" Thread

     I agree completely save for one thing; add to your list of excellent "how to dress better" books Charles Hix's Dressing Right (St. Martin's Press, 1978). The "do your own thing, there are no rules" vibe will certainly turn most of the SF tribe off. But once you put that aside, it's in...
  8. J. Cogburn

    Fresco Suit Battle: "Tobacco" Brown vs. "Wheat" Tan

    I should clarify why I employ this middling brown suit / navy blazer strategy. I frequently travel on business and have meetings with people I've never met. I don't know what the hell they're going to wear. Sometimes they go conservative business dress. More often, however, they leave their coat hanging and wear a...
  9. J. Cogburn

    Fresco Suit Battle: "Tobacco" Brown vs. "Wheat" Tan

     Agree completely. The tan suit I sport is a classic wool gabardine. I love it. Looks awesome with a white shirt and black tie (knit is best), white shirt and burgundy dot tie, a white or blue shirt with regimental striped tie, or a white shirt with tight blue stripes and foulard tie...
  10. J. Cogburn

    Fresco Suit Battle: "Tobacco" Brown vs. "Wheat" Tan

     A charcoal blue / petrol blue suit doesn't bring down the formality notch down as much as does brown, in fact, probably not very much at all. So it doesn't do the job. The best alternative to the brown suit, I've found, is the navy blazer. Always good enough in a meeting with suits and...
  11. J. Cogburn

    Fresco Suit Battle: "Tobacco" Brown vs. "Wheat" Tan

     I don't buy it Doc. In fact, they are perfect for business outside of NY/DC where you never know how the hell people are going to dress in a business meeting. I'm constantly going into meets in my suit and wildly overdressing the people there. Wearing a brown suit reduces the formality...
  12. J. Cogburn

    What to do about a 10" drop?

     Was lifting with only so-so efficiency from 12/12-12/13 but - thanks to a really good personal trainer - I really went into high gear last December. Best thing I've ever done. Well worth the massive alteration costs associated with it. 5'11" on my end.
  13. J. Cogburn

    What to do about a 10" drop?

     My other brother from another mother! 22"
  14. J. Cogburn

    What to do about a 10" drop?

     Within reason. I've got a pair of 38" trousers from Brooks Brothers that has been trimmed to the max and they are still nearly unwearable on that front.
  15. J. Cogburn

    What to do about a 10" drop?

    Good news; some serious weight lifting and a disciplined diet has recently moved me to a 42" jacket size and a 32" waist. Bad news; buying off the rack is now problematic. When I go bespoke, of course, that's not a problem, but alas, I can't go bespoke all the time. And continued weight...
  16. J. Cogburn

    The Blazer at Night - Which Shoes?

    The setting; dinner and drinks in a classic double-breasted navy blazer at a posh resort outside of LA. Default rule is brown shoe, but this is after 6:00, so the black shoe rule is also there. What's the right call per Mantonian-esque rules?
  17. J. Cogburn

    Men's Hats: A Discussion Thread, Questions, Opinions, Suggestions...

    Not buying it.
  18. J. Cogburn

    Men's Hats: A Discussion Thread, Questions, Opinions, Suggestions...

     Disagree on these points. The taller the crown, the more formal the hat. Tallish crowns go with suits but look discordant with casual clothes. Same goes for brim size (save for Panamas, where wider is always better given the function of providing shade in the summer). Hats which match...
  19. J. Cogburn

    The Classic Navy Blazer - How "Street" Can You Go?

    Over at Mr. Porter, they've got a feature today discussing the various ways one can wear a navy blazer. Most of their looks are street style. I'm OK with that and I think their five different examples are, in general, fine. But ... the navy blazer they use in their feature isn't really a...
  20. J. Cogburn

    Brooks Brothers 1818 Value

    I don't have any experience with Suit Supply or Satori and have never seen them in the wild, but I do know Brooks. When you can get the 1818s on sale, they are a solid buy in that price range. The key here is fit. Post a pic in the Milano. If the fit is good, you're gold ... Don't worry...
  21. J. Cogburn

    I bought 3 Tom Fords and I feel terrible about it.

     The site works great on a computer. He probably had it designed before iPads took over and screwed up all the over-the-top bells and whistles. Seriously, if I ever get to London, I'm seeing Sexton for a suit. One of the greatest - if not THE greatest - bespoke tailors alive today and I...
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