Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[Ulf-S]

embrace the fragile nature of reality, things will fall apart, clothes look better worn in vs pristine state of post-production display. wabi sabi!

I don't have a problem at all with clothes looking worn, but I do have a problem with things falling apart before their time (so to speak). This is a bit of an irrational fear of mine.

 

[StevenE]

I love how layered (in themselves) so many of the clothes look. An unbelievably wearable collection IMO, very straight forward and calming compared to the last few years but - at a glance - maybe one of the more technical collections.

 

[pickpackpockpuck]

http://www.wwd.com/runway/mens-fall-collections-2015/review/yohji-yamamoto

With their chopped-up clothes and scarred faces, some of the models in the Yohji Yamamoto show brought to mind Frankenstein's monster. “After surgery,” the impish designer said backstage.

Wielding his scissors like a scalpel, Yamamoto revisited several of his cherished themes – layers, patchwork and deconstruction – with outfits that frequently looked like a work-in-progress. Plain dark jackets with unfinished edges were made from paper-thin layers of fabric that peeled open like a book.

Jackets were spliced together from contrasting materials. A rustic gray wool was juxtaposed with black gabardine, while another black jacket was buttressed with panels of distressed leather. Mismatched sweaters were hacked down the middle and stitched together.

“From the beginning of my career, I’ve looked at nomadic peoples' way of wearing layers. In the old times, we called them gypsies. They were wearing all their property. I like this sense,” Yamamoto said.

The designer took his bow decked out like a traveling salesman in a dozen pendant necklaces. “We are going to start selling my new jewelry line. All silver. Brand new – that’s why I walked out as an advertisement,” he explained.

 

[sepp]

Less colorful prints compared to previous FW collection (which incidentally was what piqued my interest in Yohji back then).

Funny thing is, this collection's 3-4 colorful ensembles don't really get me excited.

Those mixed materials pants and jackets in mute shades are really really cool though. Something I will look forward to online stores this year.

 

[the shah]

some closeup makeup shots, still waiting for more detail pics to be released (and hopefully a video, I have a lot of these will be insane in motion!)

 

[davidlee388]

W15 is definitely silent but deadly, AW14 is anything but. It goes to show the Master's versatility.




Insane zipper constructions and details


YYPH AW14 Look 15 Fair Isle Zip Blazer - HF-J11-123 - 51/36/9/4 wool/polyester/nylon/rayon - cozy knit fabric in blue/white/grey. DB closure with offset double zipper. GOTHIC Yohji Yamamoto silver beast zip pullers, Nordic Fair Isle pattern.

YYPH AW07 Fair Isle " The Skull Man " Knit Jumper - HX-J50-955 - 100% laine wool. Fair Isle pattern on front and sleeves, The Skull Man on the back.

YYPH AW07 Look 8 Zip Cropped Pants - HX-P24-101 - 100% wool gabardine, outside long zippers with buttoned tabs at the hems.

Y's x Dr Martens AW08 Boots - ME-E53-752 - in black matt leather, triple diagonal stitches on toe box and side zips. 10 eyelet lace closure.

Uniqlo Tee, CDG H+ Belt.

 

[the shah]

very glad to see it fits you spot on !

 

[Ulf-S]

Lovely blazer; I got it in black gabardine. Only the upper zipper pull matches yours (but in black): the lower is a plain one unfortunately.

 

[ultronwar]

thought id post this for you's for anyone whos interested (Sasquatchfabrix not Yohji) http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/modescape/item/2400020037136/

 

[LALurker]

Jacket is too big, especially the shoulders.

 

[sepp]

@David,

That blazer is fascinating; another standout piece from 2014 FW in my humble eyes. I had been contemplating for ages whether to get it or not (due to the weather here, which means will be rarely used).

Seeing your fit gets me thinking all over again LOL!

Is that a size 3 or 4?

 

[Harlock66]

I can think of no better place to go for an answer to a YY fit than here.

I'm looking to pick up a size 2 YYPH cotton cardigan with the shoulder at 52cm, armpit width 58 and the sleeve at 57.5.
I usually wear a size 2, 44-45 shoulder with a 64cm sleeve, so my question is will the extra shoulder length translate into a
longer sleeve?

Thanks for any help!

 

[Auburn]

it tends to add a little; whether it will add 6/7 cm is hard to say. I'd err on the side of caution....

 

[davidlee388]

Middle of shoulders to sleeve length

45/2 + 64 = 86.5 vs 83.5 ( 57.5 + 52/2 )
If anything it's even shorter but the huge chest should lend a nice flowy silhouette.

@sepp The Look 15 is size 3, slightly oversized over a tee and perfect to layer. AW14 blazers were cut pretty slim ( silly small armholes ) like SS14 except the red rose skull mandarin blazer in my experience.

 

[sepp]

Thanks a million David.


Would size 4 be too oversized for me at 6 foot medium built?

I got the salmon color Navajo print pants at size 3. It's slightly looser than the SS14 pants I got but as with Yohji, a belt would solve everything beautifully.

Not too sure about jackets though in this case.