Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @rusty18,

This is an easy one!

First of all, it is not Loro Piana, but Ermenegildo Zegna; I have enough of relevant labels with respective information.

Secondly, it must have been bought by your cloth source as a leftover, or bolt end, or sample from the factory (or other intermediary).

Thirdly, this composition (wool 95% - cashmere 5%) is found in the EZ "Trofeo - Cashmere" line, a jacketing cloth.

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[hyho]

Going to commission a bespoke suit for wear in very sunny Singapore.
Looking for recommendations for a charcoal grey cloth that looks close to black color but you can still tell clearly it isn't black under good sunlight. New workplace requires more somber colors but I do not want a black suit.
Needs to have a lighter weight and open weave if possible since it is darn hot in Singapore.
My tailor can source from most mills but if you see a listing in the B&S/Ebay that fits this criteria, please let me know too.

Thank you very much!

Fresco/Crispaire is always safe. All my work suits are pretty much made from these fabric as well as Smith Finmeresco. FYI, I don't wear them outside and only wear it at most for 5 mins outdoor.

 

[rusty18]

Thank you so much!!! Finally I can put the question to rest. There was a sister fabric available where I purchased—this one I believe:
https://www.tessin.it/trofeo-cashmere-windowpane-grey-burgundy-ermenegildo-zegna.html

Thank you!

Dear @rusty18,

This is an easy one!

First of all, it is not Loro Piana, but Ermenegildo Zegna; I have enough of relevant labels with respective information.

Secondly, it must have been bought by your cloth source as a leftover, or bolt end, or sample from the factory (or other intermediary).

Thirdly, this composition (wool 95% - cashmere 5%) is found in the EZ "Trofeo - Cashmere" line, a jacketing cloth.

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @rusty18,

You are very welcome, my pleasure!

Isn't this the very purpose of a forum? To exchange opinions and disseminate information and knowledge?

I am wishing you all the best to your endeavors!

Dimitris

 

[Concordia]

Whatever it is, I am a fan haha. I looked at Minnis Fresco, Crispaire, but liked the finmeresco the most & am pretty happy with the fabric.

Thanks.

Any others tried this bunch — i.e., the high twist group — vs the old standards?

 

[Bromley]

Thanks.

Any others tried this bunch — i.e., the high twist group — vs the old standards?

I've got a suit in a high-twist navy (don't remember number) from the Finmeresco bunch. It's great. It has the substance of Minnis fresco, but it's smoother. Very open weave and cool-wearing. From memory, Crispaire feels lighter and a little flimsier. I really like the Finmeresco bunch, and would be excited to use any of those cloths again in the future.

Caccioppoli's "Travel Suits" is also really interesting and varied. The suit I have from that bunch is great, and on par with Smith's Finmeresco. William Halstead's "Explorer" bunch is nice, too, and in the same vein.

I've never had anything made up in the VBC 4-ply high-twist, but the cloth I've handled appears to be at the top of its class. It's noticeably finer in every way, but with a subtlety that I don't think I could describe. I have no experience with the Fox or Dugdale high-twist cloths. I'm glad there are so many of these now.

 

[Concordia]

I also have a suit from the recent Crispaire collection (it got re-done a few years back) and agree that it is on the flimsy side. Not awful, but a little softer than ideal-- and wears warmer than one might hope. Given the choice of that again, I'd probably go for Lesser 8/9 instead and not worry about the high-twist performance so much.

 

[Stugotes]

Dear Gentlemen,

No one knows what's in another person's mind, but we are no children and I have to remind you that "exclusivity" is an old trick which may easily a) justify price increases to "members of a closed group - clients" and vast, inexcusable delays with no repercussions what so ever, and b) make potential clients to struggle - even to pull some strings - to become members.

Although inception is old, congratulations are in order for its present execution.

Best,

Dimitris

The post is a few days old, but I feel like I still need to respond to this.

Corcos is a very small operation with two or three people doing all the work (at least when I worked with him). He also has a young family, so making 100 (or however many) suits a year may be enough work and revenue for him.

 

[reidd]

Just received this cloth. Roughly 18oz twill with black warp and indigo blue weft. Was looking for more of a true navy to have made up as a heavy winter suit. Think this will work? Or does it read too casual?

 

[lordsuperb]

The post is a few days old, but I feel like I still need to respond to this.

Corcos is a very small operation with two or three people doing all the work (at least when I worked with him). He also has a young family, so making 100 (or however many) suits a year may be enough work and revenue for him.

How does one get on the waiting list for NYC?

 

[Concordia]

View attachment 1038810 Just received this cloth. Roughly 18oz twill with black warp and indigo blue weft. Was looking for more of a true navy to have made up as a heavy winter suit. Think this will work? Or does it read too casual?

It is casual, as will be most tan/olive suits. This goes even a bit beyond Solaro and even the cavalry twill that Simon Crompton featured. The weave is heavier and the colors more mottled.

That being said, it isn't so far off what you'd see in an estate tweed suit.

 

[bdavro23]

View attachment 1038810 Just received this cloth. Roughly 18oz twill with black warp and indigo blue weft. Was looking for more of a true navy to have made up as a heavy winter suit. Think this will work? Or does it read too casual?

I'm just curious where you live that its cold enough to actually wear an 18 ounce fabric without dying of heat stroke...

 

[Concordia]

Winter in much of the UK could work. At Oxford, rooms tend to be 65F through the winter, which makes all sorts of things possible in clothes. Never mind some of the old-- and very modern-- libraries!

 

[reidd]

New York. 13oz wool feels like paper most days from about Nov to March. Even with 18oz, I’ll still need a down coat I imagine, but at least my legs should be kept reasonably warm.

 

[aaronatKW]

Does anybody get a lot of wear and tear on the elbow portion of their jackets?

No, but

Do you work in your jacket, when you are at your desk?
Are the jacket sleeves large enough for your forearms and biceps?

These factors could cause more wear than usual.