Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[inkwretch]



Recent pickups from Tip Top. Don't recall the maker of the former (my tailor had a hunch, but I forgot what he said). It's about a 13oz and the melange of colors was too much to resist. The latter is a light weight Zegna linen with a great mix of blue and black hues; might sit on it for a while, though, as I can't imagine wearing something so light in San Francisco. When made up, I'll probably go 3-patch on each.

I had a three patch made from that blue window pane. I was afraid it might be a bit loud, since it's actually triple window pane, but I feel comfortable in it now. The guys at TT told me they thought it was Loro Piana. They burned some of it with a match and concluded it was a linen/silk blend. They kind of cracked me up. When I asked them for the mill for various cloths they seemed to just be throwing out names without really knowing. BTW, this material is so loosely woven that you have to be careful with the lining. I got it self lined in front. But the white lining in the sleeves actually shows through and makes the cloth look shiny, which it's not. But my tailor said dark sleeve lining would make the sleeves look darker than the body. I'll try to post a photo.

 

[tim_horton]

Can anyone recommend a source for lightweight pick-and-pick fabric (somehwere in the neighborhood of 8 oz.)?

 

[GiltEdge]



Can anyone recommend a source for lightweight pick-and-pick fabric (somehwere in the neighborhood of 8 oz.)?

pick by pick? You mean a tickweave?

 

[tim_horton]



pick by pick? You mean a tickweave?

Pick-and-pick is also known as sharkskin. I've never heard of it referred to as pick by pick or tickweave. Here's a thread on it.

 

[MORNINGSTAR777]



w39th I think. Its a small store front a block off 8th Ave I think. Not too far from PARSONS.

FIFY

I am an alum...

Thinking about going to Tip Top soon. I live around the corner from the G stop and it would be a short ride.

 

[andyw]

Beckensteins is at 257 West 39th St.between 7th and 8th Avenues on the north side of the street closer to 8th Ave., also known as the Fabric Czar. There is a bespoke tailoring operation on the mezzanine run by the former head fitter from Paul Stuart.

Mood Fabrics is the place the FIT and Parsons students go to and made famous on TV. The selection is weak for men's tailoring but I have found excellent linings and coatings here. 225 West 37th St., the men's fabrics are on the 3rd floor.

When in this part of town, I stop into B&J Fabrics at 525 Seventh Avenue @ 39th St..They have a decent selection, better than Mood but less so than Beckenstein. The service is excellent here. Roberto and Bopa are wonderful.

None of these garment district survivors can compare to Tiptop for the range of fabric or price. But going bespoke is all about the fun of sourcing the materials and the endless possibilities.

If you are in the garment district, check out C & C Buttons at 230 West 38th Street, they have an excellent selection of horn, leather, artisanal, rustic, bone buttons in a wide range of colors for tailored clothing. Not as deep a selection as Tender Buttons but same quality at about half the cost.

 

[ThinkDerm]

nice write up

 

[GiltEdge]



Pick-and-pick is also known as sharkskin. I've never heard of it referred to as pick by pick or tickweave. Here's a thread on it.

I never heard anyone either from a mill or retail call it pick-by-pick. I am used to a totally different lingo than most people. For example "nail head" pisses me off. I was taught to never use that term. Most people think a birdseyes, pin dot, and tickweave are all "nail heads." They are not able to differentiate them. Today a customer referred to all three of those as nailheads.

 

[Manton]

Pick-and-pick is basically an interchangeable term for sharkskin. Tickweave is something else.

 

[academe]



I never heard anyone either from a mill or retail call it pick-by-pick. I am used to a totally different lingo than most people. For example "nail head" pisses me off. I was taught to never use that term. Most people think a birdseyes, pin dot, and tickweave are all "nail heads." They are not able to differentiate them. Today a customer referred to all three of those as nailheads.

I'm a little confused by what you're trying to say here. Two of the tailors I use refer to pick-and-pick's as well...err...pick-and-pick's? What else would you call that weave?

Perhaps you should spend more time educating your unschooled customers in the correct terminology, rather than getting irritated by it? Surely patience is required in the customer service industry?

 

[academe]



I visited Fox Flannels two weeks ago, when I was in the West Country for holidays. I was very kindly received by Alison, who even allowed me to take a little peek into the mill part of the building, as it was lunchtime (normally not allowed for health and safety reasons). Stepping into their store was like stepping into a candy shop. Apart from the flannels listed on their web site, Fox produce tweeds and worsteds, but I was especially interested in the flannels. I already committed to the Eden in Paris reissue on the London Lounge and a charcoal w/ scarlet stripe that Yachtie is organizing on Cutter and Tailor (which Fox is both doing), so my purchasing space was limited, but I did cop a suit length of gorgeous 14oz navy chalk stripe. However, they also stock a relatively large amount of suit lengths of custom flannels, so if anyone is interested in - for example - a light grey (think Minnis 300) with a sky blue chalk stripe, a mid-grey with caramel chalk, or a number of houndstooth variations, all priced at around £50/m inclusive of VAT,...

This cloth will definitely a peak lapel, I'm just debating about whether it should be SB or DB

Also, 15 mins. away from Fox is their old spinning mill at Coldharbour, which has been turned into a weaving museum. Very interesting to see how these things work up close, and quite enthousiastic people working there, unfortunately I could only make on picture before my camera battery conked out. Darn.

I did buy a tie made of the Blue Devon tartan they weave, also available in cut lengths:

Fun stuff; next time I'm at the other end of the country I'll have to pay them a visit...

 

[scruff]



I had a three patch made from that blue window pane. I was afraid it might be a bit loud, since it's actually triple window pane, but I feel comfortable in it now. The guys at TT told me they thought it was Loro Piana. They burned some of it with a match and concluded it was a linen/silk blend. They kind of cracked me up. When I asked them for the mill for various cloths they seemed to just be throwing out names without really knowing. BTW, this material is so loosely woven that you have to be careful with the lining. I got it self lined in front. But the white lining in the sleeves actually shows through and makes the cloth look shiny, which it's not. But my tailor said dark sleeve lining would make the sleeves look darker than the body. I'll try to post a photo.

I appreciate the the insight. They may have said LP rather than Zegna; who knows. I take most of the mill names they throw around with a massive grain of salt. I was hard-pressed to pass the length up, though, since he threw the whole thing at me for $50, and, at the time, I was looking for something loose and spongy. Good advice re: lining. I may get the sleeves lined in a dull cotton that's near the same color as the cloth, but don't know how practical this will be. I'll get my tailor's 2 cents on this. Would love to see a photo if you can dig one up.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

I never heard anyone either from a mill or retail call it pick-by-pick. I am used to a totally different lingo than most people. For example "nail head" pisses me off. I was taught to never use that term. Most people think a birdseyes, pin dot, and tickweave are all "nail heads." They are not able to differentiate them. Today a customer referred to all three of those as nailheads.

All the SR tailors use the term Pick & Pick.

 

[TheTukker]



I never heard anyone either from a mill or retail call it pick-by-pick. I am used to a totally different lingo than most people. For example "nail head" pisses me off. I was taught to never use that term. Most people think a birdseyes, pin dot, and tickweave are all "nail heads." They are not able to differentiate them. Today a customer referred to all three of those as nailheads.

Here you go again.....

 

[lasbar]



All the SR tailors use the term Pick & Pick.

Yep... It doesn't really matter anyway as long as the fabric looks good.