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Tips for judging RTW non-sport coat spring jacket (chore coat, leather jacket)?

josepidal

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Asking about the fit of non-sport coat spring jackets.

I've been looking for non-sport coat spring jackets to refresh this wardrobe segment even though we are well into spring, and recently pulled the trigger on a Barbour Harrington. This has become more important after Covid. I've also been revisiting the headaches of buying RTW jackets instead of simply telling your tailor what fabric the new project will be in.
My headache is typically that you can have shoulders that fit nicely and the rest fitting okay when you are standing.

However, the jacket my bunch up when you raise your arms, the armholes may turn out to be too insanely large and boxy when you swing your arms, or it might turn out to be a slim fit that is too tight around the chest or around one's torso (with sizing up giving you a jacket too large around the shoulders). Something with softer unstructure shoulders like a Harrington can be forgiving, but the other types are not.

Any favorite article or resource for this, given the issues are totally different from gauging sport coat fit?

Also, if you find a good RTW brand you like, would you just buy the first one retail in-store (given you only need so many casual jackets) instead of trying to wait for sales? Would you even buy two (one light color, one dark color) if you like the fit and be done?

I'm randomly looking up French jackets, from lighter Seraphin lamb leather jackets to classic blue chore/work jackets that look different from field jackets.
 

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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

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