The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

[patrickBOOTH]



^The thing is, that for the most part, there is very little that they are doing that is, in any significant way, different or better than some of the British (in particular) makers they learned from.

Some things that pop out at me...I see a definite offset of the heel from the waist of the shoe. Not new but more pronounced than I've seen elsewhere, esp. in the photos above. I quite like it.

I also see a vertical "wire" on the breast of the heel. I do that as well and came to it independently so I am bound to like it. It draws the eye and accentuates the straightness of the edge of the breast of the heel.

And there is a precision, esp. with the above maker's work, that is exceptional....but not entirely unique.

What really strikes me, however, is the glace' finish...all the way to the welt. I don't have a clue as to how that is done except by meticulous and labourious bulling for hours at a time. But when the welt stitches are reflected in the finish of the vamp, it's impressive.

There is a case to be made that such finishes are bad for the leather. That they will not abide and if renewed, will accelerate the cracking of the leather. But it looks wonderful and when it comes to marketing, "presentation is everything"

What's the purpose of that hard line between the heel and welt? Is it ornamental? It seems endemic to bespoke work, or work trying to look bespoke.

 

[bengal-stripe]



What's the purpose of that hard line between the heel and welt? Is it ornamental? It seems endemic to bespoke work, or work trying to look bespoke.

Are you talking about that line, separating the heel from the waist?

You have the curved edge of the bevelled waist hit the straight edge of the heel. This way you can keep the curve as long as possible until there is an abrupt change to square. If you want to avoid doing that edge (which needs to be done with a knife), you'll have to put the transformation from rounded to straight further down the line: the rounded edge has to peter out before it comes to the straight heel edge. Particular if the shaping of the edge is done with a rotary sander/finisher, that will be frequently the Achilles heel of the finish as you cannot have abrupt stops, one has to blend into the other and sometimes that blending can be somewhat jerky.

It will be less of a problem if you opt for a square waist.

 

[DWFII]



What's the purpose of that hard line between the heel and welt? Is it ornamental? It seems endemic to bespoke work, or work trying to look bespoke.

Ornamental. It also makes the heel look a little higher.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

^^^ I really like the look on Murata's shoes, with the distinct notch between the waist and heel which is extra distinguished since he builds up the heel against the upper a few mm extra as well. Really makes the heel feel like a totally separate part, which I find quite beautiful.

However I can also appreciate the "opposite" a lot, when the maker even if the bevell of the waist is quite prominent achieves a very nice transition from waist to heel making them feel like one. For example Yohei Fukuda does this very well. Don't have any really good pics to show this, and both my pairs are in the office so can't take new ones, but you get an idea of these below. It's even better on the inside, especially neat on the bevelled waist where he makes the waist very thin towards the edge but still manage to make the transition really smooth.

 

[aristoi bcn]

The past weekend I've visited both john lobb's (hermès shop) and corthay's atelier. Very attentive staff in both places. Good RTW aswell, but bespoke is another level. I was told Pierre Corthay was trained in Lobb (also in Berluti), and their quality manufacture are similar, while different aesthetic of course. I wish I had the budget to order from both. In lobb there was the most beautiful chukka boot I've ever seen, and in Corthay the side elastic wholecut is one of the most outstanding designs I've handled. When you look at the tight and sculpted waists of these shoes, you realize the real difference between bespoke and RTW. No RTW can rival with these level of bespoke, no matter of brand.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

The past weekend I've visited both john lobb's (hermès shop) and corthay's atelier. Very attentive staff in both places. Good RTW aswell, but bespoke is another level. I was told Pierre Corthay was trained in Lobb (also in Berluti), and their quality manufacture are similar, while different aesthetic of course. I wish I had the budget to order from both. In lobb there was the most beautiful chukka boot I've ever seen, and in Corthay the side elastic wholecut is one of the most outstanding designs I've handled. When you look at the tight and sculpted waists of these shoes, you realize the real difference between bespoke and RTW. No RTW can rival with these level of bespoke, no matter of brand.

Great bespoke shoes at those firms yes. But Corthay don't do bespoke anymore, as I understand things. The samples are from back in the days.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Great bespoke shoes at those firms yes. But Corthay don't do bespoke anymore, as I understand things. The samples are from back in the days.

I don't think so, j ingevaldsson. I saw the atelier and bespoke shoes in different stages of manufacturing and also three guys working in the premises. I don't think Pierre does any work himself but their guys indeed do.

 

[Texasmade]

Corthay brand still does bespoke. I was quoted something like 5k€ + for bespoke back in July. I'm not sure how much Pierre himself is still involved though since it seems like most of the operations are now handled by other people.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

^^^ Okay, I was quite certain of the opposite, heard it as late as the past few weeks from two different people who both should know. But that's good then!


On another note, thought I'd share some pics from when I visited Nicholas Templeman this summer:



















More pics in this report on my blog.

 

[Michael Ay329]

Clifford Roberts
The first shoe, I wanted the adelaide throat to remind me of a women's pear shaped back side. Clifford met my expectations, plus I've wanted a crescent shaped brogue apron for some time now. The second shoe reminded me of a D'Anunzio brogue G&G made years ago...I just imagined it as a lazyman for comfort's sake

 

[peppercorn78]

That Templeman chukka is divine...

 

[ntempleman]

Ahh the old workshop. Nearly all boxed up now, ready to move into the new place next week

 

[PCK1]

Koji Suzuki Spigola bespoke ... my newest pair through Armoury NYC

 

[Newcomer]

Yowza. Gorgeous.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



Clifford Roberts
The first shoe, I wanted the adelaide throat to remind me of a women's pear shaped back side. Clifford met my expectations, plus I've wanted a crescent shaped brogue apron for some time now. The second shoe reminded me of a D'Anunzio brogue G&G made years ago...I just imagined it as a lazyman for comfort's sake

I don't know, this look more reminiscent of some saggy testicles over a pear shaped behind. Are you sure Cliff didn't take inspiration from me?