The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[punit12]

Thank you, will return it. After wearing it for a while the shoulders are too wide for me and made worse by the extreme padding too.

 

[jsong812]

Hi everyone,

Would appreciate thoughts on the fit of this "MTM" shirt (for those who are interested by Solosso). First off the cuff sizing is really off as it hangs down to almost my finger web with the cuffs buttoned. They also really got the bicep and forearm measurements off as my arms are swimming in them. Any suggestions on how to clean up the lines around the chest? Also, do I need to add some more to the waist/hip area? And what about the length of the shirt? seems long to me... Ultimately, is this something that can be fixed by a local tailor at a reasonable cost? I'm referring mostly to the bicep/forearm width and cuffs? Thanks!


Thanks!

 

[EndZone]

Length is a major issue. Honestly looks like a ladies jacket. Jacket looks too small and button is too high. If you get a regular, the sleeves won't be more than 1 " too long. Not a problem to shorten.

So Despos, another picture for you. Same size, but different jacket. Same problem here? Still hesitant about what size to go for. A 38R would make it longer, but perhaps still to small overall? And going for a 40R perhaps would be too much? Would a 40S seem to be the best choice?

Edit: Perhaps a 39R would be a good choice...?

 

[odub]

Tailoring question: I picked up sport coat recently where the fit overall seemed decent but when buttoned:

1) the back of the jacket collar doesn't lay flat against my neck
2) there's a slight gap that forms in the chest area, behind the lapels.

The two are interrelated - something about the construction is such that buttoning the jacket reshapes everything from the chest up to the back collar. It's subtle...but it's there.

I've had tailor fix that gap problem in another blazer before but I haven't had him look at the "back of the collar" issue in the past.

Is this worth having tailored? Thanks!

 

[Despos]

Length is a major issue. Honestly looks like a ladies jacket. Jacket looks too small and button is too high. If you get a regular, the sleeves won't be more than 1 " too long. Not a problem to shorten.

So Despos, another picture for you. Same size, but different jacket. Same problem here? Still hesitant about what size to go for. A 38R would make it longer, but perhaps still to small overall? And going for a 40R perhaps would be too much? Would a 40S seem to be the best choice? Edit: Perhaps a 39R would be a good choice...?

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

This has a fuller chest and looks better, shoulder is wider but the length is short and not just a little. Wearing jeans with the jacket makes the jacket length more off to the eye. This is why I asked if you had tried multiple brands, they will all have a different fit. You do not want short, try a regular. They are all too short

 

[Despos]



Tailoring question: I picked up sport coat recently where the fit overall seemed decent but when buttoned:

1) the back of the jacket collar doesn't lay flat against my neck
2) there's a slight gap that forms in the chest area, behind the lapels.

The two are interrelated - something about the construction is such that buttoning the jacket reshapes everything from the chest up to the back collar. It's subtle...but it's there.


I've had tailor fix that gap problem in another blazer before but I haven't had him look at the "back of the collar" issue in the past. 

Is this worth having tailored? Thanks!

Sounds like you have an issue with jacket balance and probably a shoulder issue. If you have square shoulders or the jacket has a short back balance you will have a big space between the front jacket edges where it buttons. The fronts will open and fall away. When the jacket is unbuttoned of course. When you pull the fronts together to button the front it pushes the jacket up and pulls the collar away from your neck. If the problem is from square shoulders you need them squared up and maybe the collar shortened. If it is a balance issue you need the entire back part raised up to lengthen the back balance. Both are technical, more
difficult adjustments.

 

[EndZone]

This has a fuller chest and looks better, shoulder is wider but the length is short and not just a little. Wearing jeans with the jacket makes the jacket length more off to the eye.
This is why I asked if you had tried multiple brands, they will all have a different fit. You do not want short, try a regular. They are all too short

I am so grateful to have someone like you helping me. I'm totally lost, but I'm slowly finding my way

This second jacket is a better fit, I agree, but still I feel that it is a tad too tight. The top button is positioned right at my solar plexus which when moving can be slightly uncomfortable. Not too much, but I feel that maybe a small small size difference could do it. Question is, do you think a 39R instead of this 38S could be the best fit I can get with this one? Or will a 39 possibly throw things off completely? Like shoulder width for example? Or me looking as if I'm wearing a tube?

 

[AwfullyNiceGuy]

I will do a shameless self bump and rephrase my question:
When looking to buy a coat(outerwear meant here), how much larger should the coat approx. be in shoulder measurements than a SC/suit jacket if it is to fit over said SC/suit jacket? If there are any rules of thumb at all!
I am not having the luxury of trying the coat on, and therefore am looking to gauge it from measurements, while I realize the cut might be a huge factor. The coat is 20'' between shoulders, and my usual jackets are 18.5''-19''.

 

[Despos]



I will do a shameless self bump and rephrase my question:

When looking to buy a coat(outerwear meant here), how much larger should the coat approx. be in shoulder measurements than a SC/suit jacket if it is to fit over said SC/suit jacket? If there are any rules of thumb at all!

I am not having the luxury of trying the coat on, and therefore am looking to gauge it from measurements, while I realize the cut might be a huge factor. The coat is 20'' between shoulders, and my usual jackets are 18.5''-19''.

20 would be the maximum.

18.5 jacket with 19 top coat would be the minimum.

The rest you won't know until you actually try it on. When you see it , it will either look/feel right to you or not. No solid answer

 

[Despos]

This has a fuller chest and looks better, shoulder is wider but the length is short and not just a little. Wearing jeans with the jacket makes the jacket length more off to the eye.

This is why I asked if you had tried multiple brands, they will all have a different fit. You do not want short, try a regular. They are all too short

I am so grateful to have someone like you helping me. I'm totally lost, but I'm slowly finding my way

This second jacket is a better fit, I agree, but still I feel that it is a tad too tight. The top button is positioned right at my solar plexus which when moving can be slightly uncomfortable. Not too much, but I feel that maybe a small small size difference could do it. Question is, do you think a 39R instead of this 38S could be the best fit I can get with this one? Or will a 39 possibly throw things off completely? Like shoulder width for example? Or me looking as if I'm wearing a tube?

Waiting for you to try on a regular. Glad to hear you realize this feels/fits better than the previous. If you try a 40R with a bit narrower shoulder, that may be the one. You won't know until you try it on.

 

[ultramantaro]

Hi everyone,

Would appreciate thoughts on the fit of this "MTM" shirt (for those who are interested by Solosso). First off the cuff sizing is really off as it hangs down to almost my finger web with the cuffs buttoned. They also really got the bicep and forearm measurements off as my arms are swimming in them. Any suggestions on how to clean up the lines around the chest? Also, do I need to add some more to the waist/hip area? And what about the length of the shirt? seems long to me... Ultimately, is this something that can be fixed by a local tailor at a reasonable cost? I'm referring mostly to the bicep/forearm width and cuffs? Thanks!


Thanks!

For a MTM shirt they really did a poor job and look almost one size too big. One would think the sleeve length should be proper at the very least.

It looks like they they need to open the sides, remove excess fabric at the chest area to slim down the chest portion, along with cutting off excess fabric on the sleeve, and shorten the sleeve length.

 

[d4nimal]

Hello all - I went for a trial fitting at the KW pop up in hopes of having a tuxedo made for my wedding this September. Afterwards I went to Barneys and tried on a 38R RL black label single button peak lapel for comparison.


I put the pics taken at the shop with a KW 38R and unhemmed 32W pants next to a RL black label tux jacket (not pants) I tried on later the same day (the KW is on the Left in each pic, and the last picture is the RL Black Label on its own at Barneys. I am close to 6 foot even, ~150 lbs. I also tend to gravitate towards stronger more built up shoulders such as the RL BL vs the standard or soft.












Here are the suggestions from Aaron who runs the pop up:

Base jacket 38

Shoulder width +1cm
Buttoning point ok
Sleeve length + 2 cm
Bicep -1 cm
Lower arm no change
Sleeve pitch backward
Armhole + 1 cm (meaning 1 cm up and therefore narrower)
Back chest (armpit to armpit) -1 cm
Front chest no change
Waist + 0.5 cm
Jacket length +2.5 cm

- My instinct is to lower the buttoning point ~1.5-2 cm to form a deeper V like the RL and actually either keep the waist the same or suppress it even further instead of letting it out- I feel like the RLBL showed I have room to take in without pulling or being uncomfortable. I'm getting a no vented tux which should help with the slim silhouette for what that's worth.

- I'm also not used to having a jacket length that would be a full inch lower than the picture shows, but that may just be a product of being brought up in the modern culture of "bumfreezers."

- I was advised in a different thread to consider a swayback adjustment if possible as well. I do slouch and stand with my right shoulder a bit lower but I don't plan on slouching much on the day of the wedding

I would love any advice you would be able to lend me from any of those respects or otherwise. I find it hard to judge the pants as they were unhemmed but the suggestion was to let the seat out a touch.

Cheers - and thanks much for any constructive advice.

 

[ATLjon]

Hi all,

I'm getting a suit from Sid Mashburn and have been through the initial tailoring and a second round. I just got the suit back, and stupidly thinking all would be well, I simply picked it up. I'll be going back a third time. I had originally gone in with the thought of having an MTM garment, but I was talked out of this because my body type doesn't require any crazy alterations and going the off-the-rack and tailor approach would be faster.

I'm having a hard time articulating what I want done to this suit. I think the top is too boxy, and even after alterations to supposedly address this, there still seems to be a roll under the collar. The pants, which have been slimmed, tapered and let out a bit, still seem not as streamlined as I would want them, and there looks to be some extra fabric around the thighs. Also, the back of the pants is doing something strange around the knee that was supposed to have been addressed.

What else? I, of course, want this to be perfect.

Thanks.

UPDATE:


I still think there are some things to be worked on after this latest fit, and I'm a bit annoyed that the process has taken this long, but I feel like we're getting there.

Despos and others: Is there a point to which there have been too many alterations to an off-the-rack suit? Should I start getting worried about the durability of things?


I still think they could do more with the crotch area, as I feel there's a bit of extra fabric there making the pants look a bit saggy. They also shortened the length as they raised the waistband, so I need them to add a bit more length back on. I think there's a bit too much room in the jacket where the lapels are. Is there an easy fix for that?

What else am I missing here?

After this process, I don't know if I'd buy another Sid suit.

 

[irock7777]

My first Kent Wang MTM suit. Getting ready for another in a few weeks

Ignore the pants. Im going to start over with those.

How does the jacket look to you guys? I forgot to button my sleeves in this pic so thats why they look a touch sloppy. I was thinking of taking .5cm off either the bicep or the arm hole. I also notice a little pulling in the vent. Its more prevalent in the pic than in real life. I think i had it altered a little tight in that area. Other suggestions?

 

[Flyswatter]



[

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

URL=http://www.styleforum.net/content/type/61/id/1059795/]

[/URL] My first Kent Wang MTM suit. Getting ready for another in a few weeks Ignore the pants. Im going to start over with those. How does the jacket look to you guys? I forgot to button my sleeves in this pic so thats why they look a touch sloppy. I was thinking of taking .5cm off either the bicep or the arm hole. I also notice a little pulling in the vent. Its more prevalent in the pic than in real life. I think i had it altered a little tight in that area. Other suggestions?

I'd suggest going with the soft shoulder option on your next KW suit.