The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[azwildcat]

The jacket sleeves may be too forward for your arms. A sleeve pitch issue. Either that or there is too much fullness at the sleeve cap and the sleeve needs to be removed and recut to fix it.

With the trousers, they look pretty good from the back. Based on your build, I would recommend braces/suspenders to pull the front up onto the stomach some. If the waistband is falling down, it disturbs the natural intended balance of the the trouser and creates a sloppy drape straight down the front of the leg. An alteration would be to lower the waistband in the front if the person only wears belts. The cheaper and easier thing to do is suspenders.

Would not take these suits to Joe Bank and ask them to perform the aforementioned alterations.

Thank you!

Re "build"...polite reference to belly? Makes sense. Hadn't thought of suspenders, but the sagging waistline is def. an annoyance...I shall try them (or crunches!).

I don't know a tailor here (Phoenix) that I trust with sleeves. There's a reputable one in Chandler I haven't tried...maybe these sleeves on these inexpensive suits represent a good opportunity to try him out.

Thanks again.

 

[Despos]



can someone provide the high-end tailor approximate cost of sleeve rotation/ altering sleeve pitch? Have been putting this off for a while now, but seems like several of my jackets do this rumpling/ creasing on the front of my sleeves. hoping for some advice on this issue, which might be:
http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2013...orrect-sleeve-pitch-can-make-or-break-a-suit/

crappy pix but best I had avail
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IMG ALT=""]http://www.styleforum.net/content/type/61/id/1156072/width/350/height/700[/IMG]

If you do get the sleeves worked on. It would be worth the additional cost to have the right shoulder adjusted. That's your low side.

There are several causes and several cures for the sleeves. Getting the correct diagnosis is the first step and someone who can execute the changes is next.

Front, side and back pictures with your arms relaxed are necessary

 

[Despos]



Hi tailors, I just can't seem to find a decent pair of straight leg khakis or chinos. Now I'm wondering, can someone in here tell me what goes wrong here, and perhaps if something can be done about this?? The problem is that they all 'bunch up' behind my knees. I've tried a bunch of brands, slimmer or wider around the hips and thighs, hugging or loose around the calves, about 99% of the pants I try have the same problem... I think it's related to my stance, because my calves are pretty big, and seem to be placed further to the back as opposed to my forward hips. The pairs below are a great example of the problem, while wearing pretty different types of pants. I can imagine the first to be a little too tight, but the second not really.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Jean cuts will fit/look like this on you. No way around it.

 

[Chopper88]

Jean cuts will fit/look like this on you. No way around it.

Thank you for taking the time Despos, appreciate it!

Do you have any recommendations on what type of cuts to look for with my type of stance/legs?
And judging by the determination of your post, probably nothing can be done about this type of OTR cuts? I don't mind if its a lot of work and costs relatively much compared to the price of the jeans, I just want great pants when I'm not wearing a suit as well.

 

[michaelyork]

I am eyeing a 3-piece suit, nice cut, good price, my size 52.
There has been a mixup.  This last one they have seems to have a size 50 vest, 52 everything else.

52 usually fits me loose (pants definitely need a belt to stay put in place), but I prefer the look/shape of 52.  50 fits me albeit tightly.

My question:  Is it true vests need to fit perfectly?  Will the 50 be uncomfortable for me?  more importantly, when just wearing pants and vest, will the 50 vest and 52 pants look not right together?


Any advice gratefully appreciated.

 

[Terpo]

The rise looks too high/long. You have a high right hip that causes pulling on the right out seam. Would let out the crotch 1/2" to 3/4". The way the trouser legs drape is sloppy.

I agree the drape is sloppy. Apart from letting out the crotch, what measurements would I be looking to change on my next order to improve the fit (it's Luxire MTM)? Does the crotch refer to the rise, the thigh or the hip measurement?

Also, in order to judge the rise more accurately I took some more holistic pics. I am wearing the trousers at my natural waist, which I heard was advised for the tall slim as myself. Would you agree with this or should I think about lowering the waistband in the future?

And finally and comments on the fit of this MTM shirt would be greatly appreciated as well. Thanks a lot in advance!

 

[yankeegooner]

Thanks Despos and Co. for your taking the time to provide expert advise. Good work!

I got a 42L OTR suit and had a tailor make significant adjustments. I have a 9 - 10 inch drop and long arms. I wear 16.5-38.

Looks like the jacket needs more work.

 

[daxnjan]

I just received my first redo from Proper Cloth, and I'd like some critiques of the fit for this MTM dress shirt. I'm not too impressed with the fit, but I might have unrealistic expectations of how a dress shirt should fit.

 

[EEWithoutStyle]

Hello Tailors. It was suggested by a fellow member for me to post these pics here for feedback. I got these from SuitSupply and have a hard time finding something that fits me well OTR. Are these sleeves salvageable (note SS has functioning button holes on the sleeves). Yes the sleeves are short but wondering if they could be lengthened. They are both 34R. The 36R fits much more roomier in the chest and shoulders.

 

[TweedyProf]

Tailors I was interested in EEs jacket length and how you might adjust. I feel the torso leg ratio isn't bad (when I cover his arms in photo) but it's short relative to the rule of thumbs. I don't know how tall EE is and if he is shorter would want a shorter jacket relative to someone taller to emphasize a sense if height via a longer leg line?

Anyway curious how you would balance all the relevant factors to come up with a tasteful jacket length

 

[EEWithoutStyle]



Tailors I was interested in EEs jacket length and how you might adjust. I feel the torso leg ratio isn't bad (when I cover his arms in photo) but it's short relative to the rule of thumbs. I don't know how tall EE is and if he is shorter would want a shorter jacket relative to someone taller to emphasize a sense if height via a longer leg line?

Anyway curious how you would balance all the relevant factors to come up with a tasteful jacket length

I am 5'10". Wear a 14.5-32/33 shirts and 31x32 pants (depending on the brand). Hope this info helps the tailors.

 

[hoxuantu]

Please give me some comments and suggestions on my suit fitting.

 

[Despos]



Please give me some comments and suggestions on my suit fitting.

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You will always have issues around the upper back from very, very prominent shoulder blades. What is going on is minimized by the jacket being a size too big. It is covering you rather than fitting you.

 

[hoxuantu]

Please give me some comments and suggestions on my suit fitting.

I'm still in need of some advices

 

[Despos]

Back needs extensive work to clean up the blades and roll under the collar. Your posture is erect but you need more length on the fronts. Cannot shorten the back balance here because you need extra length over your shoulder blades. The fronts have no outlet to do this, Trouser length is too long. Back rise is too long on trouser creating the wrinkles on the the back

Please give me some comments and suggestions on my suit fitting.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!