First MTM Suit - Fit/Cut Feedback?

[Buckeye5378]

Hello,

I've just received a first-iteration suit from an MTM maker in the DC area. I really need some help with feedback to give the alterers to improve the fit. Or, just let me know your overall thoughts. Maybe there are issues that would require a remake; I'm not sure. Here are the photos:



Off the bat, the things I noticed:
- the suit could be slimmer in the waist
- the area under the armpits has some excess fabric, seen when I lift my arms to the side. I know some is needed, but I'm not sure if it is too baggy.
- there is some bunching in the pants when I stand. Too slim?
- perhaps slightly lengthen the legs
- my natural posture has a slightly puffed chest, and maybe the lapels are pulling?

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm fairly new to this. This will be my main suit for my new job, which will require some high-level stakeholder presentations. I would really appreciate any feedback, no matter how harsh!

 

[mistermagness]

Definitely agree on the chest and pants. I think some more room in the pants and then the chest would both help. I agree with a tad more length in the leg as well. I wouldn't tighten the waist or do anything to the armpits. I was going to suggest a tiny bit more room in the shoulders as well, but upon reviewing the other pictures, it looks good! I think it looks good as-is, but some small issues to be picky with.

 

[rjc149]

The jacket's armholes look low.

Classic trouser hem openings are between 7.5 - 8 inches, which will break elegantly over the shoes. If you're under 7 inches, you're in slim fit territory, and should go no-break, since the break just looks like it's bunching up around your ankles. Your trousers are nearing skinny fit, which is why you have this issue. I would have them hemmed a bit shorter, but if it were me, I would get a more classic fit.

 

[Buckeye5378]

Thanks for the feedback. I'll ask about the armholes. The hem is actually 8 inches, I'm a tall/large dude. I'd rather have a more classic fit so maybe I'll check about letting then out or maybe a re-make

 

[rjc149]

My rule of thumb on dress trouser hems is that you should easily be able to pull them up over your calves without straining the fabric. That's a personal rule based on my calves and my preferences, so your mileage may vary.

My other rule of thumb (not my invention) on jacket shoulders is the lean test. If you stand parallel to a wall, and lean into it, your deltoid should hit the wall first. If the jacket shoulder touches the wall first, the shoulders are too wide. Your jacket appears to be fine in that regard, but, something to keep in mind.

 

[breakaway01]

My rule of thumb on dress trouser hems is that you should easily be able to pull them up over your calves without straining the fabric. That's a personal rule based on my calves and my preferences, so your mileage may vary.

My other rule of thumb (not my invention) on jacket shoulders is the lean test. If you stand parallel to a wall, and lean into it, your deltoid should hit the wall first. If the jacket shoulder touches the wall first, the shoulders are too wide. Your jacket appears to be fine in that regard, but, something to keep in mind.

I think the first rule of thumb is generally good but the second one is more 'it depends' IMO. A little (and the rub is in making sure it's not too exaggerated) shoulder extension can be very flattering especially for people with narrower shoulders.

Extended Shoulder Supremacy

I was talking with a friend today about extended shoulders. He thinks they're bad, an artifice, and ugly. I think they're not only good, but almost everyone should get an extended shoulder. You should have an extended shoulder. Your mother should have an extended shoulder. Your children should...

www.styleforum.net

 

[rjc149]

I think the first rule of thumb is generally good but the second one is more 'it depends' IMO. A little (and the rub is in making sure it's not too exaggerated) shoulder extension can be very flattering especially for people with narrower shoulders.

Extended Shoulder Supremacy

I was talking with a friend today about extended shoulders. He thinks they're bad, an artifice, and ugly. I think they're not only good, but almost everyone should get an extended shoulder. You should have an extended shoulder. Your mother should have an extended shoulder. Your children should...

www.styleforum.net

Agreed, I think it also depends on the "cut" of the suit. American suits will have wider shoulders than British styled suits.