The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[zabo358]

First bespoke pair of trousers. Really happy with the fit but was curious if it’s normal for the back of the pants to not always have a clean line all the way down when standing upright. I noticed in photos I sometimes have a fold near the upper hamstrings but if I kick my hips back a few inches, like in the second back photo, it straightens them out. Also, these are fresh out of the ups box could probably benefit from a press.

 

[ppk]

First bespoke pair of trousers. Really happy with the fit but was curious if it’s normal for the back of the pants to not always have a clean line all the way down when standing upright. I noticed in photos I sometimes have a fold near the upper hamstrings but if I kick my hips back a few inches, like in the second back photo, it straightens them out. Also, these are fresh out of the ups box could probably benefit from a press.

Are your knees locked? I suspect they aren't in the second back photo.

When I lock my knees and push my hips forward, my pants used to do this because there was too much of a back rise. When my tailor adjusted the back rise by removing some material, the fold went away.

Hope that helps.

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

I attempted another "custom" jacket from one of the well reputed businesses in my area. It was my first jacket with them but I have brought other items in for alterations and have been happy with the work. This time, I went for a basic navy blazer. They have a made-to-measure program and they used a somewhat extensive system for taking photos of my posture against a grid background and they measured the slope of each of my shoulders.

I'm fairly pleased with the overall look and fit except for the ones that really count... the collar and shoulders. The collar is sitting away from the back of my neck by about 1/2". The shoulders are about 1/8"-1/4" too wide on each side due to padding that extends beyond the shoulder seam. See photos.

I'm guessing neither of these are completely fixable without remaking the jacket but I'm wondering if I could get some feedback on:

1. Can I do anything to reduce the issues that I mentioned? What alterations could help this jacket?
2. Is there something obvious about my posture that reliably causes the same exact collar gap with nearly every business I've tried, thus far? Before the purchase, they have all assured me that they can correct/adjust so there will not be any gap. But when I get the jacket, they smash that collar against my neck in an attempt to pretend it doesn't exist.

The last time I posted some fit photos, Despos commented that I might have forward sloping shoulders and that one of my shoulders is lower than the other, which is correct. Do those observations seem consistent with how this jacket is fitting?

Thanks!

p.s. I currently have a suit in progress with a very well known bespoke shop. I pointed out these persistent trouble spots with them and I assume that it won't be an issue for them to resolve after a couple of fittings. However, if that suit results in the same issues, I'm just going to give up and buy everything off the rack going forward.

 

[Despos]

Back view with your arms relaxed at your side would be the best picture to analyze the issue. Keeping your arms in a natural position is better for the other views as well.
you seem to be moving your head for the pictures and not standing naturally and relaxed. Saying this as you might be “head forward” which is a posture descriptor that can be adjusted for. The shoulders aren’t cut to match your shoulder and neck. this would be confirmed with a back view.
when the jacket is un buttoned, do the fronts/front edges fall away, creating a wide gap between the front edges.
Button position could be an inch lower and maybe add .5” to the overall length.
Would not narrow the shoulders.

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

Back view with your arms relaxed at your side would be the best picture to analyze the issue. Keeping your arms in a natural position is better for the other views as well.
you seem to be moving your head for the pictures and not standing naturally and relaxed. Saying this as you might be “head forward” which is a posture descriptor that can be adjusted for. The shoulders aren’t cut to match your shoulder and neck. this would be confirmed with a back view.
when the jacket is un buttoned, do the fronts/front edges fall away, creating a wide gap between the front edges.
Button position could be an inch lower and maybe add .5” to the overall length.
Would not narrow the shoulders.

Thank you @Despos. I have added some additional photos. Yes, when the jacket is unbuttoned, the fronts do fall away. I believe that I do have a somewhat forward neck posture but it's not severe. I am standing relaxed in these new photos and am not tilting my head back unnaturally in the previous photos.

 

[Despos]

The fit is close but MTM doesn't always allow for fine tuning and some adjustments aren't doable.
Since MTM works from a block pattern it is the same issue as RTW. Try on multiple RTW jackets and they all look and fit a bit different on your body type. You may have to try several MTM makers and find the one using a block that is best at fitting your body type and needs the fewest or least amount of adjustments. That's the advantage to a MTM outfit using fitting garments. You can try on your closest size, see the silhouette and the fitter can visually see what adjustments are necessary.
The person measuring you is another variable. Their experience at fitting, understanding and identifying your fitting issues, knowing the DNA of the pattern that will be used for your jacket and communication with the maker all matter.
You're investing in the process not just a jacket.

 

[otc]

Thoughts on which of these I can better make work out?

40L:

42L:

My thought is that the 42L is just too big on the shoulders is unfixable. 40L comes a little tight in spots but is closer to working. Wish they made a 41L, but that still wouldn't solve my square shoulder/big chest combo.

Doesn't help that I'm in a tailoring wasteland out here in NW Montana!

 

[hitsuji]

Reposting from the MTM/Bespoke Trousers Thread as I haven’t been able to get a response there. Have had these pair of trousers made via copying a previously altered pair of mine. Overall I think it fits quite lovely although I think could do with some letting out of the seat and thigh. Would there be any other recommendations regarding fit as I would like to commission from them again

Hi All,

Have just recieved my second MTM pair in a Standeven oxbridge flannel. Wanted to get some thoughts of the fit. I got a wider leg, adjusted the back rise, added deeper pleats (1” on primary and 0.5” on secondary).

Overall thoughts from myself is that its a good pair and improvement on the first, althought the Pleats are still opening quite a bit on one side so needs some taking out on the seat/hip

Any other thoughts from the folks here?

 

[LJ1891]

Hi All,

Have just recieved my second MTM pair in a Standeven oxbridge flannel. Wanted to get some thoughts of the fit. I got a wider leg, adjusted the back rise, added deeper pleats (1” on primary and 0.5” on secondary).

Overall thoughts from myself is that its a good pair and improvement on the first, althought the Pleats are still opening quite a bit on one side so needs some taking out on the seat/hip

Any other thoughts from the folks here?

How do they feel? Can you move freely in them? Do they pull when you sit down, etc?

 

[Camillo]

Jacket by Berg&Berg, size 50, long (~79cm measured centre back from collar seam to hem!). My two concerns are the total length and pretty large sleeves. However, the total length in relation to my long arms looks ok in the photo, and so do the sleeves - despite their bulk, I like the way they fit. In my opinion, the larger sleeves of the jacket correspond better with full-cut trousers.

What do you think about the proportions and how it fits? I'm leaning towards keeping it, slightly shortening the sleeves and tidying up the back.

 

[zr3rs]

Looks good. While the body length with Jeans could be a cm shorter, it should be fine with dress trousers, which, in my experience, habe a lower crotch.

 

[gimpwiz]

@Camillo, I like it. Tidy up the back. If you're going to touch the sleeves, I'd prefer to see the cuffs flat than at an angle, it's especially jarring to me with the pattern being sort of "cut through," but I acknowledge that this is a stylistic choice and the choice is yours. Otherwise proportions look solid. So do the sleeves and so is the body length.

 

[JTrent82]

I seem to remember someone in this thread offering some advice on getting a more classic fit out of the SuSu default MTO template. @Despos perhaps? Mostly I'm looking at odd jackets but trouser advice is also welcome. I think hip width increase was advised for both trousers and jacket? Just looking for some general tips on how to get a comfortable classic fit out of a notoriously slim/short retailer. Thanks in advance.

 

[DorianGreen]

Jacket by Berg&Berg, size 50, long (~79cm measured centre back from collar seam to hem!). My two concerns are the total length and pretty large sleeves. However, the total length in relation to my long arms looks ok in the photo, and so do the sleeves - despite their bulk, I like the way they fit. In my opinion, the larger sleeves of the jacket correspond better with full-cut trousers.

What do you think about the proportions and how it fits? I'm leaning towards keeping it, slightly shortening the sleeves and tidying up the back.

Also for me it looks good. Good overall fit, sleeves need to be shortened and back can be improved.

 

[ppk]

Also for me it looks good. Good overall fit, sleeves need to be shortened and back can be improved.

I'm curious - how would you improve the back? Thanks.