The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[wrblz]

Hi All,

Have just recieved my second MTM pair in a Standeven oxbridge flannel. Wanted to get some thoughts of the fit. I got a wider leg, adjusted the back rise, added deeper pleats (1” on primary and 0.5” on secondary).

Overall thoughts from myself is that its a good pair and improvement on the first, althought the Pleats are still opening quite a bit on one side so needs some taking out on the seat/hip

Any other thoughts from the folks here?

Pleats are opening because the hips are too tight. Pleat depth can't fix that. You could still go fuller in the leg honestly.

Have these been pressed? They aren't draping the best (front) but unclear if that's because they need a press or an issue with the fit.

 

[hitsuji]

Pleats are opening because the hips are too tight. Pleat depth can't fix that. You could still go fuller in the leg honestly.

Have these been pressed? They aren't draping the best (front) but unclear if that's because they need a press or an issue with the fit.

It was the first time I’ve worn them properly since they arrived so I would have to presume they have been pressed. I’ve added a different angle with different lighting and as your point. Needs further widening on the hips - was planning to bring it to my alterations dry cleaner and get that sorted. What else would need to be factored in the sort out he front drape?

Pleat depth was just a point I recieved last time in the forum since my previous pair had quite shallow
pleats.

I think you’re right about the leg fullness. I went for a 8” hem width on these ones and planning to go 8.5” on the next

 

[wrblz]

It was the first time I’ve worn them properly since they arrived so I would have to presume they have been pressed. I’ve added a different angle with different lighting and as your point. Needs further widening on the hips - was planning to bring it to my alterations dry cleaner and get that sorted. What else would need to be factored in the sort out he front drape?

Pleat depth was just a point I recieved last time in the forum since my previous pair had quite shallow
pleats.

I think you’re right about the leg fullness. I went for a 8” hem width on these ones and planning to go 8.5” on the next

Fuller cut hips/seat should help a lot. These look to be a higher rise, so you could also consider switching to braces / suspenders down the road. Less tightness at the waist can also help pleats and drape in general as the pants will hang from shoulders.

I think the leg could be cut fuller from top the bottom. More room in the hips and thighs will help the pleats but also the drape. From the back, it looks like there's little excess fabric in the seat and even upper thigh. Hard to tell from the photos, but also looks like the calves are cut somewhat slim. In the front photo, the pants aren't falling nicely at the shoe.

Depends on the look you're going for of course. If you want that modern slim taper look, you can address the pleats and leave the rest or go a tad fuller. But if you want a more classic silhouette and drape, you'll want to go a decent amount fuller in the entire leg.

 

[breakaway01]

I seem to remember someone in this thread offering some advice on getting a more classic fit out of the SuSu default MTO template. @Despos perhaps? Mostly I'm looking at odd jackets but trouser advice is also welcome. I think hip width increase was advised for both trousers and jacket? Just looking for some general tips on how to get a comfortable classic fit out of a notoriously slim/short retailer. Thanks in advance.

The reputation for SS having slim and short jackets is due to their sales associates recommending that people size down. If you look at the actual measurements of their jackets, I find them comparable to other current makers. The Lazio model is 29.5” long in 36R, for example. Shoulders are a touch narrow but not wildly so.

I agree that trousers are slim, especially in their smaller sizes. They don’t work well for me.

 

[wrblz]

SuSu trousers are severely limited if you're going for a fuller cut and aren't very slim yourself. For example, I have larger thighs and the SuSu builder maxes out its thigh measurement way too slim for what I'd want to wear.

Jackets are fine though.

 

[hitsuji]

Fuller cut hips/seat should help a lot. These look to be a higher rise, so you could also consider switching to braces / suspenders down the road. Less tightness at the waist can also help pleats and drape in general as the pants will hang from shoulders.

I think the leg could be cut fuller from top the bottom. More room in the hips and thighs will help the pleats but also the drape. From the back, it looks like there's little excess fabric in the seat and even upper thigh. Hard to tell from the photos, but also looks like the calves are cut somewhat slim. In the front photo, the pants aren't falling nicely at the shoe.

Depends on the look you're going for of course. If you want that modern slim taper look, you can address the pleats and leave the rest or go a tad fuller. But if you want a more classic silhouette and drape, you'll want to go a decent amount fuller in the entire leg.

The hips were a problem in my first pair and whilst this one is a little better, it isn't perfect (although it has been quite hard to advise alterations to my pattern as I am communicating with them on the phone and with images rather than being able to address the issues in person in their workshop as they are quite the ways up North of England!). I have suspender buttons on both my pairs so I will have a go at trying them on and see if it alleviates any of the bunching.

These are my fullest pair yet but I do think I can stretch it somewhat although I am quite hesitant in increasing the leg and hem too much where it swallows the shoe probably around about a 0.5" increase for the whole leg. Do you think the taper on the calves is too aggressive?

I thought the bunching of the fabric around the crotch and thighs was due to too little fabric rather than excess? It also looks like one leg drapes better than the other.

The photos were done with direct light in front of me so may have flushed out the colours a little. Probably would help with better natural lighting but it's the best I could do currently.

 

[DorianGreen]

I'm curious - how would you improve the back? Thanks.

Sorry, not a tailor. I should have formulate this way: I think the back could be improved. As you see, there are some bulges in the lower back which should be flattened.

 

[ppk]

Sorry, not a tailor. I should have formulate this way: I think the back could be improved. As you see, there are some bulges in the lower back which should be flattened.

Thanks for the response. That's helpful. I'm trying to understand how did should fit.

 

[OGE1815]

Hi all.

Any ideas what might be causing this bump in the shoulder line? Not as visible from the back, but have attached a photo anyway.

I’ve been told it’s due to “anatomy”, but am looking for a 2nd opinion.

Why?

I tried on the same model (before having mine made) that was made for someone else, and there was no bump.

 

[Peak and Pine]

^
Yeah, probably anatomy. Same thing happens to me with certain jackets. Clever padding will take care of this. You won't need much.

 

[OGE1815]

^
Yeah, probably anatomy. Same thing happens to me with certain jackets. Clever padding will take care of this. You won't need much.

Appreciate your feedback

Apparently, they’re unable to assist further because “everything has been done” - so I’ll take it into my other tailor to see what they can do. Disappointing… especially given the tailor who made the jacket has prices in line with Cifonelli (UK based).

 

[DorianGreen]

Appreciate your feedback

Apparently, they’re unable to assist further because “everything has been done” - so I’ll take it into my other tailor to see what they can do. Disappointing… especially given the tailor who made the jacket has prices in line with Cifonelli (UK based).

Yes, extremely disappointing and unacceptable.
I think you should insist to have the flaw eliminated, it's your good right.

 

[hitsuji]

Appreciate your feedback

Apparently, they’re unable to assist further because “everything has been done” - so I’ll take it into my other tailor to see what they can do. Disappointing… especially given the tailor who made the jacket has prices in line with Cifonelli (UK based).

That seems ridiculous as some padding will help alleviate that at least. I presume that its where your shoulder bump (for lack of a better term) is?

Did the other jacket you try on you mentioned have some padding?

 

[OGE1815]

That seems ridiculous as some padding will help alleviate that at least. I presume that its where your shoulder bump (for lack of a better term) is?

Did the other jacket you try on you mentioned have some padding?

Yeah the bump is the fabric. My actual body doesn’t have a bump like that (See attached photo)

The other jacket was identical in construction and design.

Essentially, they’ve said it’s because I have less muscle mass on the right shoulder blade, and my left shoulder is further forward. And that’s somehow caused the bump at the top in the shoulder line.

Something I would have expected to be adjusted for seeing as we’re talking about bespoke.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Yeah the bump is the fabric. My actual body doesn’t have a bump like that (See attached photo)

The other jacket was identical in construction and design.

Essentially, they’ve said it’s because I have less muscle mass on the right shoulder blade, and my left shoulder is further forward. And that’s somehow caused the bump at the top in the shoulder line.

Something I would have expected to be adjusted for seeing as we’re talking about bespoke.

That’s bespoke?? What firm let that out their door and argued about making it right?