The Japanese Repro Clothing Thread (Real McCoys, Freewheelers, Etc.)

[ppk]

Repro adjacent.

I am looking for a Beams Plus jacket-pant set and apparently none of the retailers in the US are carrying it.

It is the brown gun check wool double twill jacket and pants. Lots of folks are carrying the grey version including No Man Walks Alone, but not the brown. I found it on the Beams website but, it wouldn't allow me to order it. I guess it's for Japan only.

I found a proxy shopper who will buy it in Tokyo and ship it to me. In case someone else needs this service, it is Delivery Japan.

After I receive the clothing, I'll post the results here.

 

[Michigan Planner]

Anyone have experience with Freewheelers Military Utility Trousers? Thinking about picking up a pair or both. Big fan of fatigues but I'm not sure if they are worth it or not.

Links to the item I'm talking about:

Freewheelers Back Satin "Military Utility Trousers" (Eggplant Navy)

Another 'new classic' from FWs!Inspired by the trousers worn by civilians of the 1950s, these are a refreshing style of the classic 'baker' pants we've seen so many times.... only this time, through the vision of Freewheelers!Constructed with their specially developed medium-weight cotton back...

corlection.com

Freewheelers Deck Cord Cloth "Military Utility Trousers" (Khaki Beige)

Another 'new classic' from FWs!Inspired by the trousers worn by civilians of the 1950s, these are a refreshing style of the classic 'baker' pants we've seen so many times.... only this time, through the vision of Freewheelers!Constructed with their specially developed heavyweight deck cord...

corlection.com

So many brands make fatigue/baker pants for far less. Orslow stands out for me as being great value. I'm sure these are made well, but not really distinguished from other fatigue pants imo

I'm with @jischwar that there are better values out there. I've got a few items from Freewheelers and they seem well made but high quality military utility-style trousers are pretty easy to find. I will say that those Deck Cord Cloth trousers are pretty interesting but I don't think they're $550 interesting.

If you like the utility style, you may want to check out Fullcount if you haven't already. I've found the quality of their stuff to be right up there with Freewheelers and they've got some interesting fabrics as well.

Edit: I now see that the Corlection site was defaulting to AUD prices for me so those Freewheelers are closer to about $350 USD at the current exchange rate. Not inexpensive by any stretch but not too far out of whack with many of the other brands discussed here.

I still don't think the eggplant/navy color satin trousers are worth it but, again, I am intrigued by the deck cloth ones and even more so when I take the exchange rate into account.

 

[jischwar]

Thanks for the input. I have a few pairs of orslow and they are very good. Wanted to try something else and saw these from FW. They are cheaper in the Japanese market obviously. Just interested in that 'Deck cloth' they produce.

Ah I see, you are more interested in the fabric itself. Sorry I have no experience with that cloth

 

[Michigan Planner]

@bergbooty - I have this pair of paints from Freenote that I just remembered that they market as a deck cloth as well; these are a 10oz fabric. Freewheelers doesn't say how heavy their deck cloth fabric is (other than that it is "heavyweight") but from the pictures, it appears to be a bit more stiff (if that's something that you can discern from a picture) but I have to imagine it would break in nicely.

Photos courtesy of Standard and Strange

FWIW, the Freenote deck pants are by far one of my most worn, most comfortable pair of casual pants so they may be worth looking into if you can find them in stock somewhere and are interested in the fabric... though I admit it's quite a different cut/style than the utility trouser.

 

[jischwar]

@bergbooty - I have this pair of paints from Freenote that I just remembered that they market as a deck cloth as well; these are a 10oz fabric. Freewheelers doesn't say how heavy their deck cloth fabric is (other than that it is "heavyweight") but from the pictures, it appears to be a bit more stiff (if that's something that you can discern from a picture) but I have to imagine it would break in nicely.

View attachment 2069587
View attachment 2069591
Photos courtesy of Standard and Strange

FWIW, the Freenote deck pants are by far one of my most worn, most comfortable pair of casual pants so they may be worth looking into if you can find them in stock somewhere and are interested in the fabric... though I admit it's quite a different cut/style than the utility trouser.

Does it feel more like duck canvas or chino fabric?

 

[Michigan Planner]

Does it feel more like duck canvas or chino fabric?

Definitely more like duck canvas. I have a repro USN deck jacket (from Bronson MFG) and the fabric on those Freenote pants feels pretty similar to the fabric on the deck jacket, though the stuff on the deck jacket is a bit more cord-like, which I think might be more similar to what Freewheelers is offering.

FWIW, I like duck canvas but I think that it's considerably more stiff than the deck fabric and, IME, duck takes a lot longer to break in.

The Freenote pants I posted are sort of a happy medium between duck and traditional chino.

 

[jischwar]

Definitely more like duck canvas. I have a repro USN deck jacket (from Bronson MFG) and the fabric on those Freenote pants feels pretty similar to the fabric on the deck jacket, though the stuff on the deck jacket is a bit more cord-like, which I think might be more similar to what Freewheelers is offering.

FWIW, I like duck canvas but I think that it's considerably more stiff than the deck fabric and, IME, duck takes a lot longer to break in.

The Freenote pants I posted are sort of a happy medium between duck and traditional chino.

Oh gotcha, very helpful. I picked up some one-wash duck canvas pants from Stevenson Overall that are on the lighter weight side and they were instantly comfortable, no break in

 

[Lorcan7]

Agreed. The challenge is that I'm trying to figure out my preferences.

Here are some criteria that I'm exploring, but I'm flexible since I'm learning:

• On the heavier side (maybe >14oz)
• Raw indigo (not black for now)
• Slim straight or straight (I'm 6'/150lbs - 183cm/68kg)
• Should look good in both casual style and with a sport coat
• Medium rise
• Prefer saniforized, but not a hard and fast rule. I definitely want washed, so shrinkage is not an issue. I don't want to spend $200+ and find that I can't wear them after the first wash.

Based on my research here's what I'm looking at:

• IRON HEART 777-XHS JEANS - SLIM TAPERED 25OZ
• STUDIO D'ARTISAN MEMPHIS X ZIMBABWE COTTON FIBER JEANS - SLIM TAPERED D1712S
• FLAT HEAD SE05BSP JEAN
• STRIKE GOLD 6109 16.5OZ SUPER SLUB JEAN - SLIM TAPERED

Perspectives and advice much appreciated.

My hot takes:

Don't buy 25oz for a first pair. Unless you are the guy who must have the heaviest of everything (see also: Lost Worlds leather jackets). 15-17oz already feels plenty more substantial than mall brand/fashion brand denim.

If you want to wear with a sport coat and not look bad this is actually more specific criteria. Needs to be slightly higher rise / fuller leg to balance out proportions. eg. higher rise will hide more shirt fabric if wearing tucked button-down + denim so it's behind the jacket's buttoning point. Something more like Bryceland's 133, Warehouse 1001xx, Freewheelers s601 1944-45 for that.

eg Brycelands

or
Urban Comp rocking some Strike Golds with sport coat here but think they're the straight-tapered cut not slim tapered

 

[ppk]

My hot takes:

Don't buy 25oz for a first pair. Unless you are the guy who must have the heaviest of everything (see also: Lost Worlds leather jackets). 15-17oz already feels plenty more substantial than mall brand/fashion brand denim.

If you want to wear with a sport coat and not look bad this is actually more specific criteria. Needs to be slightly higher rise / fuller leg to balance out proportions. eg. higher rise will hide more shirt fabric if wearing tucked button-down + denim so it's behind the jacket's buttoning point. Something more like Bryceland's 133, Warehouse 1001xx, Freewheelers s601 1944-45 for that.

eg Brycelands

or
Urban Comp rocking some Strike Golds with sport coat here but think they're the straight-tapered cut not slim tapered

This is very helpful. Thanks.

I *am* one of these guys who has to wear the heaviest of everything but I think I'll follow your advice and go lighter for the first pair.

 

[unclemilty]

Agreed. The challenge is that I'm trying to figure out my preferences.

Here are some criteria that I'm exploring, but I'm flexible since I'm learning:

• On the heavier side (maybe >14oz)
• Raw indigo (not black for now)
• Slim straight or straight (I'm 6'/150lbs - 183cm/68kg)
• Should look good in both casual style and with a sport coat
• Medium rise
• Prefer saniforized, but not a hard and fast rule. I definitely want washed, so shrinkage is not an issue. I don't want to spend $200+ and find that I can't wear them after the first wash.

Based on my research here's what I'm looking at:

• IRON HEART 777-XHS JEANS - SLIM TAPERED 25OZ
• STUDIO D'ARTISAN MEMPHIS X ZIMBABWE COTTON FIBER JEANS - SLIM TAPERED D1712S
• FLAT HEAD SE05BSP JEAN
• STRIKE GOLD 6109 16.5OZ SUPER SLUB JEAN - SLIM TAPERED

Perspectives and advice much appreciated.

I was in pretty much the same boat as you a couple of months ago with similar preferences. I went to Self Edge and ended up with these. Couldn't be happier.

Sugar Cane 1947

A classic cut modeled after what the original 501 was like in 1947. An amazing and timeless style; this cut stays true to the original from the rivets to the Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavy 14.25oz, double ring-spun selvedge denim produced on the original narrow shuttle looms employed...

www.selfedge.com

 

[sussi]

I was in pretty much the same boat as you a couple of months ago with similar preferences. I went to Self Edge and ended up with these. Couldn't be happier.

Sugar Cane 1947

A classic cut modeled after what the original 501 was like in 1947. An amazing and timeless style; this cut stays true to the original from the rivets to the Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavy 14.25oz, double ring-spun selvedge denim produced on the original narrow shuttle looms employed...

www.selfedge.com

this is very solid suggestion for first "real" jeans!

 

[jmiller123]

Do you guys find the seat of the Sugar Cane 1947 flares out? It looks that way in some model shots I've seen online, and doesn't in others. I like the fit otherwise so that's been making me hold off.

 

[Mghart]

Another Japan trip in the books. I’ll try and post some pics of the haul when I get a chance. Thankfully didn’t overspend, but still managed to get some cool stuff this time.

 

[ppk]

Agreed. The challenge is that I'm trying to figure out my preferences.

Here are some criteria that I'm exploring, but I'm flexible since I'm learning:

• On the heavier side (maybe >14oz)
• Raw indigo (not black for now)
• Slim straight or straight (I'm 6'/150lbs - 183cm/68kg)
• Should look good in both casual style and with a sport coat
• Medium rise
• Prefer saniforized, but not a hard and fast rule. I definitely want washed, so shrinkage is not an issue. I don't want to spend $200+ and find that I can't wear them after the first wash.

Based on my research here's what I'm looking at:

• IRON HEART 777-XHS JEANS - SLIM TAPERED 25OZ
• STUDIO D'ARTISAN MEMPHIS X ZIMBABWE COTTON FIBER JEANS - SLIM TAPERED D1712S
• FLAT HEAD SE05BSP JEAN
• STRIKE GOLD 6109 16.5OZ SUPER SLUB JEAN - SLIM TAPERED

Perspectives and advice much appreciated.

I finally made it to Self Edge today as some advised, and it was the absolute best thing I did. The folks there were so warm and friendly and patient with my questions.

I presented my criteria to the salesperson (Nick), and he quickly said, I'll give you two choices. You try them out and give me feedback and we'll go from there. He asked me to try the:

• Iron Heart 555s-142 Jeans - Super Slim Tapered 14oz Denim and
• Pure Blue Japan PBE-019 17.5oz Pop-Up Beige-Core Indigo Jean - Straight Tapered

I liked the Iron Heart color, but I absolutely loved everything about the Pure Blue Japan - the texture, the color that had a hint of beige coming through, the fit and the patch and embroidered indigo leaf. Incredible attention to detail. I won't bore everyone. I tried on a couple of more, but I ended up getting the Pure Blue. They are great.

I also got another pair of pants, the Samurai 15oz Selvedge Chinos. These have incredibly thick fabric with a lovely design. These will last multiple generations - that's how robust they are.

Thanks for all the advice. Very happy with these.

 

[Mghart]

Pardon the wrinkles on the trousers.. pretty happens when you look at them lol. RMC N-3 utility after a wash, not much shrinkage to note, maybe a touch on the length. Dark khaki trousers and chambray are Timeworn from this season.