The (hopefully) definitive thread on NYC tailors

[aravenel]

From what I have heard PoP's custom suits go for, I'd go somewhere else.

 

[aravenel]



It's been awhile since I perused or posted on this forum, but I wanted to help spread the word about Rory Duffy--the Henry Poole-trained winner of the 2009 Golden Shears Award on Savile Row who's hung his shingle in Brooklyn. He's making me my first bespoke commission--a 3B single-breasted sportcoat with box-pleated open patch pockets in a lightweight RAF blue flannel--and I'm filming the whole process in detail for a series of web videos I'll be posting soon. We just had the baste fit last week and it's absolutely gorgeous. Having trained at Poole, Rory cuts a classic Poole coat--close, fitted, and soft, with a generous and slightly roped sleeve head. The extent of drape is contingent not only on the customer's taste, but on his body and posture. Trousers are trim, side-tabbed, and fishtail brace-cut.

Aside from Len Logsdail, Rory is the only Row-trained master tailor working in NYC, and I'd like to help raise his profile enough to keep him here. He's passionate about his work, with a missionary zeal about raising awareness of handcraft tailoring, and young enough (30) to be that lifelong tailor we all dream of having. He's a great guy to boot, and I would recommend that any New Yorker considering going bespoke get in touch with him.

His website is: http://handcrafttailor.com/

Very cool. IIRC, he used to do work with David Reeves for a while. You should update us when the coat is done, would love to see pictures.

 

[Ennius]

Rory looks like the read deal.

Can you give us a ballpark sense of his pricing on bespoke suits?

Given his site says it takes at least 60 hour per suit, I assume it aint cheap.

 

[ThinkDerm]



Rory looks like the read deal.

Can you give us a ballpark sense of his pricing on bespoke suits?

Given his site says it takes at least 60 hour per suit, I assume it aint cheap.

photos?

 

[taxgenius]



Rory looks like the read deal.

Can you give us a ballpark sense of his pricing on bespoke suits?

Given his site says it takes at least 60 hour per suit, I assume it aint cheap.

+1

 

[killacam]

anybody have any experience with windsor custom?

 

[fjordan]

I'd like to mention that I've had very good experiences with Cardelino recently. Juan at Cardelino on Broadway between 22nd and 23rd has done an excellent job for me altering several suits and jackets, including taking in and shortening suitcoats and slimming pants legs.

 

[aravenel]

Took some stuff to Cardelino last week. Will report back on results. Admittedly, this was for simple stuff--shortening trousers, lengthening sleeves. So far, my experience has been positive--I will say he tends towards a quite full break, but once I showed him how I wanted the break, he was fine with it. Prices pretty good, assuming the quality of work is there.

Debating taking in a SC to have him remove a collar roll--anyone had him do work like this before?

 

[David Reeves]



Took some stuff to Cardelino last week. Will report back on results. Admittedly, this was for simple stuff--shortening trousers, lengthening sleeves. So far, my experience has been positive--I will say he tends towards a quite full break, but once I showed him how I wanted the break, he was fine with it. Prices pretty good, assuming the quality of work is there.

Debating taking in a SC to have him remove a collar roll--anyone had him do work like this before?

Pedro can do pretty much anything in terms of alterations.

 

[aravenel]



Pedro can do pretty much anything in terms of alterations.

Glad to hear it--will definitely give him a shot on the trickier stuff then.

 

[GothamRed]



Took some stuff to Cardelino last week. Will report back on results. Admittedly, this was for simple stuff--shortening trousers, lengthening sleeves. So far, my experience has been positive--I will say he tends towards a quite full break, but once I showed him how I wanted the break, he was fine with it. Prices pretty good, assuming the quality of work is there.

Debating taking in a SC to have him remove a collar roll--anyone had him do work like this before?

Tailors here are starting to get used to no break, e.g., Leung, PoP.

I assume you mean a roll on the back underneath the collar? Any competent tailor should be able to handle that.

 

[Ennius]

Gents,

My sizing for shirts/sweaters consistently requires tailoring as I am L across the chest but M in the waist and sleeves. I have a tailor I like for shirts/trousers/coats (PoP).

I need someone that can work on shortening sweater sleeves - assuming that can be done. I dont like rolling up the sleeves as it looks sloppy and I probably need at least 1 inch taken out. It doesnt sound like he works on sweaters.

Has anyone had this done in NYC? Experience/Recommendations?

I hope I am not condemned to buying MTM/bespoke sweaters.....

 

[Millerp]

....

 

[mintyfresh]



Thanks and sorry I didn't reply - possibly could have saved you the trip to ask. I've had 5 or 6 pairs of pants done by him and they are all excellent. Perhaps not Solito, but then again, 1 Solito = 3.5 LNC. BTW, that price isn't far off the Asian price

Do you normally bring your own cloth? If so, where does one go about purchasing cloth!?

Thanks

 

[MistahBates]

Try Tip Top Fabrics in Greenpoint. Or shop around the Garment District.