The (hopefully) definitive thread on NYC tailors

[taxgenius]



It ever ends well!

Like Cardelino?

 

[MistahBates]

I went to LNC on Baxter street this past weekend. They must have jacked up their prices or maybe they're doing the old chinatown tricks trying to negotiate or something, but they said a suit starts at $1,000 using their fabric and $700 with my own fabric. I thought these guys were supposed to make trousers for like $80 and a jacket for $250 (not including fabric)

whats the deal?


edit: Saw the post above. Did you ask them what their suits would cost? seems like $120 + fabric for pants isnt too bad - but even that is still a far cry from $1000 for a suit

What do you mean? $1,000 seems reasonable, given his skill level and the amount of handwork. You're not going to find a great bespoke suit for $1,000, but Chiu does a good job of trousers, based on what I've seen in this thread.

I don't know how he sets his prices. He might just charge each individual whatever he feels like, which is his prerogative. I've seen some guys pay up front, and some guys pay after. I pay after.

 

[v8 muscle]

I don't know that I would trust an alterations tailor to make a suit.

I looked at a few samples of suits he had and they looked pretty well done. One of them was halfway finished and you could see the canvassing inside. The pick stitching seemed to be well done too. There was one guy who was being fitted for a suit there but other than that it was pretty quiet. The place is in a basement and looks kinda dingy but they had a full rack of suits so they must get decent business.

 

[Ennius]

regarding a tailor for a leather jacket, try calling Pierre of Paris (NYC) and ask him.

from what I have seen, he wont say yes unless he can do it well. he wont be cheap but will do a solid job.

if he doesnt do it, ask him for a referral...

 

[David Reeves]



Like Cardelino?

You been talking to Carl?

I try out new makers all the time, I'm always on the look out for good ones. I probably get about a dozen samples a year done up that don't cut it. You don't know if anyone's really that good until you try them yourself and of course you don't want them making for the clientele unless you know what your getting and they are up to scratch.

Cardelino do the lions share of my alterations and they are very good.

 

[aravenel]



Cardelino do the lions share of my alterations and they are very good.

Thanks--was actually just debating giving Cardelino a try, I think this just tipped it over in their favor.

Any suggestions for them--e.g. is there one person there who is best to talk to?

 

[David Reeves]



Thanks--was actually just debating giving Cardelino a try, I think this just tipped it over in their favor.

Any suggestions for them--e.g. is there one person there who is best to talk to?

Pedro!

 

[aravenel]



Pedro!

Excellent, thanks!

 

[Master Shake]

How long ago was that?

This is from their website, in regard to the bespoke option:

The Paul Stuart Custom silhouette, or "house style," is based on an iconic jacket design invented over eighty years ago on Savile Row by the personal tailor to the Duke of Windsor. The cut is defined by lightly padded shoulders, high armholes, a slightly generous sleeve at the bicep, draped chest and blade, and definition at the waist. Softly constructed for ease of movement, the overall effect was to provide a masculine, athletic appearance.

For what it's worth, that language refers to the relatively new offering. That's the new operation headed by the guy who was one of the partners behind Alan Flusser's shop (the other guy, not Flusser). I can't comment on quality or fit or anything else.

 

[newyorknoir]

^^^^

I've had the exact same experience with PoP, his work has been impeccable. However, has anyone else noticed the mothball-ish smell in his shop? The couple of pieces he's tailored for me thus far are at the cleaners now to hopefully remove the smell (airing out, cedar spray, bathroom steam, etc. did not work) - it is pervasive (at least to me). In fact, I was there for 15 minutes yesterday for some basted fittings and in just that time the suit I was wearing and my overcoat picked up the smell. Gone now, but...

bump... anyone? bueller?

 

[aravenel]

I'd rather him have mothballs in his shop than have his client's clothes eaten by moths.

 

[Ennius]

PoP definitely has a mothball smell,

But he has clothing everywhere and tons of cloth that needs to be protected. I rather worry what it does to his health as opposed to it bothering me.

Would you rather be annoyed by a tailor doing a ****** job on your clothes or a residual mothball smell?

 

[newyorknoir]

I'm headed there today regardless, I was just wondering so I can make sure that when I drop my stuff off they'll be ready before sunday and aren't sitting around for an extra day or two. It would be a pain to take a brand new pair of trou to a dry cleaner for odor removal, but it looks like I'll probably end up doing that anyway.

 

[Montauk]

It's been awhile since I perused or posted on this forum, but I wanted to help spread the word about Rory Duffy--the Henry Poole-trained winner of the 2009 Golden Shears Award on Savile Row who's hung his shingle in Brooklyn. He's making me my first bespoke commission--a 3B single-breasted sportcoat with box-pleated open patch pockets in a lightweight RAF blue flannel--and I'm filming the whole process in detail for a series of web videos I'll be posting soon. We just had the baste fit last week and it's absolutely gorgeous. Having trained at Poole, Rory cuts a classic Poole coat--close, fitted, and soft, with a generous and slightly roped sleeve head. The extent of drape is contingent not only on the customer's taste, but on his body and posture. Trousers are trim, side-tabbed, and fishtail brace-cut.

Aside from Len Logsdail, Rory is the only Row-trained master tailor working in NYC, and I'd like to help raise his profile enough to keep him here. He's passionate about his work, with a missionary zeal about raising awareness of handcraft tailoring, and young enough (30) to be that lifelong tailor we all dream of having. He's a great guy to boot, and I would recommend that any New Yorker considering going bespoke get in touch with him.

His website is: http://handcrafttailor.com/

 

[Ennius]

I'm headed there today regardless, I was just wondering so I can make sure that when I drop my stuff off they'll be ready before sunday and aren't sitting around for an extra day or two. It would be a pain to take a brand new pair of trou to a dry cleaner for odor removal, but it looks like I'll probably end up doing that anyway.

I hear you but I still view it as a high class problem. I hung my pants from PoP up in the bathroom by the shower for a few days and they aired out pretty well...

Have you thought of getting bespoke anything from PoP?