The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

[bernoulli]

ACME sizing question : Do you guys take your normal size in ACME or go half size up like with EG and GG? TIA ry

Normal size.

 

[clee1982]

By normal you mean CJ/Carmina size right (half down from EG/GG)?

 

[ryanluo23]

PSA - As I'm new to ACME and to me it hasn't been all that clear from the webpages / research that there is an option to MTO and that there are significant differences to their RTW offerings

My initial IG exchanges has revealed that

Marvel RTW = 7 series
ACME RTW = 8 series

MTO = 10% more than 8 series but has
higher SPI (11 vs 10)
better leather?
better hand work
slimmer waist
Gap of the heel smaller?

FYI esp for those considering already paying for the 8 series RTW ACME prices, apparently going MTO by paying 10% more, you will get significantly a 'better' shoe...?

 

[bernoulli]

PSA - As I'm new to ACME and to me it hasn't been all that clear from the webpages / research that there is an option to MTO and that there are significant differences to their RTW offerings

My initial IG exchanges has revealed that

Marvel RTW = 7 series
ACME RTW = 8 series

MTO = 10% more than 8 series but has
higher SPI (11 vs 10)
better leather?
better hand work
slimmer waist
Gap of the heel smaller?

FYI esp for those considering already paying for the 8 series RTW ACME prices, apparently going MTO by paying 10% more, you will get significantly a 'better' shoe...?

By normal size, I mean the same size I take in most makers (10.5UK). Carmina does not fit me at all; I tried. Rarely I will have a maker (G&G) in which I must go 11UK. But size is less of an issue than last. I was lucky insofar as I was measured by the people at ACME, and they customized a last for me (not completely; they made slight changes to a standard last).

I don't care at all about SPIs and some technical details, and my purchases were before "The Marvel Series" existed. They were both MTOs because I wanted customization regarding the broguing (the infamous Green Lantern broguing) etc. No, you don't get better leather. I chose from the same leather book as their RTW offering.

As for "Gap of the heel smaller?", it all depends on your measurements. If you are in China, you can get measured and they can advise you on the best size for you. I ended up taking a G, the widest last they have. It was a good call.

I don't think you will get a significantly better shoe by going to series 8 or MTO. It all depends on what you want from ACME. I got what I wanted from their MTO offering. I wouldn't be able to get that from the RTW series, otherwise I would have saved myself some money.

 

[clee1982]

not a close up picture, but these are from BWS, lazyman in black smooth calf

SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

tangential related I suppose, a friend decided to get sir tom baker suit for the R&R look, it is "ridiculous" (you can look up on their own website to see, some are normal some are way out there)

www.styleforum.net

 

[ajay199127]

Asian shoes for sale:

FREE SHIPPING Single Navy Museum UK7.5

Selling because the instep is higher than how I want it to be

www.styleforum.net

HANDMADE SUMMER LOAFER

Vibram half sole Vibram heel Toe tips Free global shipping

www.styleforum.net

 

[Viatu]

Hello guys. I've been talking to Helen from Blazing Wonders about ordering a pair of shoes. How do you all feel about her communication? Did any of you have to tell her what exactly you wanted regarding any specifics about your feet? I'm asking because I have wide feet. I sent her the dimensions of my feet along with pictures of my feet using a Ritz scale. I also told her the last few pairs of shoes I bought were from TLB and they were H width shoes. Now, I have lost weight since those TLB purchases. My feet have lost some width but not that much because I know the dimensions of my feet. Helen is telling me I have normal feet and their normal width should fit me. Have any of you all had a similar experience with her? If so, what did you do? Did you trust her? How did it turn it out?

 

[ajay199127]

Sh

Hello guys. I've been talking to Helen from Blazing Wonders about ordering a pair of shoes. How do you all feel about her communication? Did any of you have to tell her what exactly you wanted regarding any specifics about your feet? I'm asking because I have wide feet. I sent her the dimensions of my feet along with pictures of my feet using a Ritz scale. I also told her the last few pairs of shoes I bought were from TLB and they were H width shoes. Now, I have lost weight since those TLB purchases. My feet have lost some width but not that much because I know the dimensions of my feet. Helen is telling me I have normal feet and their normal width should fit me. Have any of you all had a similar experience with her? If so, what did you do? Did you trust her? How did it turn it out?

She has 4 stock lasts, 2 are e-width and 2 are e width everywhere but f width on the toe box. The latter two lasts (square and round) would fit you.

 

[Viatu]

Sh

She has 4 stock lasts, 2 are e-width and 2 are e width everywhere but f width on the toe box. The latter two lasts (square and round) would fits you.

Thank you so much. She didn't tell me that. I feel better now.

 

[Eddie.Lin]

My latest acquisition from Xibao. Butterfly loafer on their Huang last.

 

[zzzzzzzzhl]

Finally, after waiting one and a half years and two trials, I received my bespoke pairs from Acme Shoemaker. Three pairs - two lazymans from the same last, and a Chelsea boot.

To be honest, I'm quite disappointed with the outcome. The toeboxes are too narrow, and this is quite off for bespoke after two trials. Other parts fit very well, but I can't wear these shoes without hurting my little toes. Customer service started off great with the help of Oliver Tang (Tang Cheng). However, after Oliver left Acme, I had to deal with several different staffs one after another (due to another staff leaving as well), and the support I received was neither helpful nor consistent.

There’s also decline in quality. While exquisitely made overall, the toe shape is less defined, and the gap between the toe and welt is more prominent compared to their previous work. I included comparisons to my MTM pair (with handled shoe tree) from when Acme first launched, and the difference is clear.

Browsed Acme's social media, and their lastest batch of shoes also suffer from a lack of toe shape definition. I heard that after Oliver Tang's departure, an accounting staff was asked to take over his role and is now in charge of production. Hard to say for sure, but this might explain the decline in quality.

Despite all the details, fit remains the most important issue. I sent the shoes back to Acme and asked for solution. They use a pliers-like device to stretch leather around the little toe, also added extra volume to the last and put the shoes back on it to stretch for a week. They sent the shoes back to me, and unfortunately, the toeboxes were still too narrow.

I had to return the shoes to Acme once again and requested new remedial pairs, as I doubted if stretching would ever solve the problem. However, they insisted that with enough time, stretching would make a difference. Waiting to see how it turns out.

 

[clee1982]

That sucks, guess Xibao/OT it is then

 

[hysteria]

That sucks, guess Xibao/OT it is then

I know there's a lot of love for Oct Tenth here but I recently comissioned and received an MTO pair and I can't say that I was impressed with the workmanship. It was ok, with fancy details like slim/bevelled waists and HW but attention to detail and overall construction did not seem any better than TLBs at close to half the price. Probably would not order again.

 

[Viatu]

I know there's a lot of love for Oct Tenth here but I recently comissioned and received an MTO pair and I can't say that I was impressed with the workmanship. It was ok, with fancy details like slim/bevelled waists and HW but attention to detail and overall construction did not seem any better than TLBs at close to half the price. Probably would not order again.

But for some of us like me who can't wear TLB's shoes without making a custom order (I have 4 pairs of TLBs. Great shoes.) Oct. Tenth and Blazing Wonders are less than a $100 dollars more than TLB custom Artistas. So, the aforementioned Chinese companies represent a strong bargain in my opinion.

 

[Notch]

I will not go into this too much, as I have no interest in a back and forth of bickering.

You had placed the order through our online store in April. The order went into production at a time when production was slow due to the factory moving to a new location in Shanghai. A dispute was raised from your end in June, moments before the shoes were delivered to me. A dispute that according to our terms and conditions was not valid (delays in production time are not a valid reason to dispute a custom order).

In the end, the bank would have ruled in your favour as they always do, but a couple of weeks after raising the dispute you contacted me through Whatsapp to see if the shoes were still available for purchase, after which I sent some pictures. We agreed to continue with the sale and I sent you your shoes.

Shortly after, you sent me a Whatsapp message saying how much you liked the shoes and how grateful you were to introduce you to Oct. Tenth. Of course, you have since deleted this message from Whatsapp.

As far as delay in production times, I can acknowledge this has sometimes been an issue. I have had orders take months, but some orders are completed in a matter of weeks as well. You never read about the latter.

In terms of the construction not being any better than TLB, this is your personal opinion and you are entitled to it.

I still vouch for Oct. Tenth and with the latest improvements, I place them very close to Acme Shoemaker in terms of quality, craftsmanship and aesthetics. I believe I still have a good reputation on this forum, and kindly ask all other members to find out the quality of Oct. Tenth shoes for themselves. I will have new, closeup pictures of Oct. Tenth shoes shortly and I will let those speak for themselves. There is a Gallery page on our new website and I also like to invite everyone to have a look there (will not post a link because I am not an affiliate anymore).