The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[Slewfoot]

FYI that Edwin and Matthew DeBoise of Steed are now extending their London Lounge Cloth Club promotion through 2012.

http://steeds-view.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/london-lounge-cloth-club-promotion.html

 

[forex]

Did you get your completed stuff yet?

 

[Slewfoot]



Did you get your completed stuff yet?

^ Nope. Second/Forward fitting in 6 weeks then they'll finish at their convenience. Looking forward to next Fall!

 

[patrickBOOTH]



Ah, well I don't really know about the drape cut in particular; it does look like in a drape cut the dart can be terminated short of the scye, as you have described, though I'm not sure that it's necessarily required in all instances:

This shows how to adjust a standard type fitting pattern to drape jacket. Have only seen the under arm dart moved forward and ending before reaching the armhole done by English cutters. If Italians employ this method, I haven't encountered it. If you notice the waist line is moved down quite a bit as is the lower pocket. Chest is made wider by extending out the neck point and at the armhole. Thanks for posting.
Do you know what era or decade the Whyfe system is from?

How does shifting the neck point slightly make the chest bigger?

 

[F. Corbera]

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[F. Corbera]

Steed is about to launch a new design for their website. Among the features will be this, as Edwin DeBoise describes on their blog:

We started to throw around some ideas back in November 2011 between myself, Matthew, Andrea and David McNeil of Revo Creative and came up with a substantial list of things we would love to incorporate in the new site.

One of which was a unique feature which we are sure might again be a first for Savile Row!

Its is a bespoke customer login.

This feature is available to all of our bespoke customers and their username will be their email address and a password of their choosing when they register for the feature.

This will allow access to their own personal space on our site and will be able to track current orders that are in process through a interactive time-line. Matthew will be updating the system as the customers suit is going through each process. Much like we documented various stages through our blog episodes called "A Work In Progress"

There will be a standardised format of text that will explain each stage but the photo's will be unique to that order. For example you will see photo's of your own paper pattern, and the cloth that has been chosen being cut.

Each customer will be able to post comments and questions in a box at the bottom of their personal page which we will reply to asap.




Other features of the new site will be galleries of our work and video's which we will start posting over time.​

At any rate, complaints about transparency in the schedule for make and delivery for bespoke orders are often leveled on SF and elsewhere against many bespoke tailors. Steed will be providing its customers a new level of insight and avenues for communication on the making and delivery process.

I think that it will be especially convenient for recurring customers to see their prior orders (what cloth, etc.) as the order databases are built up.

 

[A Y]

Are they sure they want another way for iGents to obsess on the Internet? If they don't crash Steed's servers first by checking every hour, then they'll be here comparing the progress of their suits with each other, and getting helpful millimeter-precise alteration advice on pictures of half-finished coats.

Seriously, good for them. They probably will have to improve their internal processes to do this, so it sounds like a win for both Steed and their customers.

 

[F. Corbera]

I thought that iGents only bought at discount?



Beyond the minority subset of nervous first-timers, it should be useful for tracking agreement on details (oh, like pleats or flat front, straight or slant pockets, etc) and a convenient way for ongoing customers to look up old orders.

I know that some guys here can recite Minnis and Lesser swatch numbers by heart, but I can't.

We'll have to see how it works. It looks good and goes beyond the usual bespoke tailors site existing only as brochure-ware.

 

[Will]

I wish other tailors had it. I can't even get invoices much of the time.

And shoemakers! To be able to gaze fondly at your 18 month old order...

 

[TheFoo]

Yes, a shared reference for order details would be sublime. Something always isn't quite what I ordered, and there are only recollections of verbal conversations to go back to.

 

[F. Corbera]

It's possible that a customer suggested these features.

I think Edwin was on the first US trip during which A&S first tried to bring fittings to American clients. So, few have his traveling track record.

I got a note today from one of SF's most knowledgable members that he might have had his best first fittings ever on this visit. I was very happy to hear this.

Anyway, there aren't many tailors this good left. Seek them out and use them while you can, wherever they are.

 

[forex]

^^I had my best first fitting as well, they are top notch and pleasure to deal with. We are going straight to finish with all of the sport coats.

 

[F. Corbera]

That's great.

 

[fritzl]



I

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

t's possible that a customer suggested these features.
I think Edwin was on the first US trip during which A&S first tried to bring fittings to American clients. So, few have his traveling track record.

I got a note today from one of SF's most knowledgable members

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

that he might have had his best first fittings ever on this visit. I was very happy to hear this.
Anyway, there aren't many tailors this good left. Seek them out and use them while you can, wherever they are.

care to share for the purpose of transparency and new avenues of communication?

 

[A Y]



I thought that iGents only bought at discount?