The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[hymo]



Here it is again...
http://www.anderson-sheppard.co.uk/thenotebook/learning-to-cut-coats/

There's a side body?

 

[rs232]

Not only that, look at the shape of it at the scye!

 

[hymo]

I think it's because the English have pointy armpits.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



There's a side body?

Not only that, look at the shape of it at the scye!

Well, kind of, yes. That dart shouldn't reach the armhole, it should terminate if I am not mistaken. Well traditionally anyway.

 

[Slewfoot]



I've seen them and they are exceptional. LL tweeds and flannels are really good. I was in Canada this week and it dropped down to 18 degrees, you could use some of those LL tweeds and flannels.

Thanks! Glad you liked them. I heard your fitting went well.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



Well, kind of, yes. That dart shouldn't reach the armhole, it should terminate if I am not mistaken. Well traditionally anyway.

Not necessarily; I have seen some drafts where the under-arm dart terminates before reaching the arm-hole but it can often go all the way. Then, of course, it is whether the other end of this dart is extended right to the hem of the coat which determines whether there is a separate side-body or not. It looks like it might actually stop at the pocket line (where the ruler is placed) rather than extending the hem, his fingers are covering where it would go so its hard to be sure.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



Not necessarily; I have seen some drafts where the under-arm dart terminates before reaching the arm-hole but it can often go all the way. Then, of course, it is whether the other end of this dart is extended right to the hem of the coat which determines whether there is a separate side-body or not. It looks like it might actually stop at the pocket line (where the ruler is placed) rather than extending the hem, his fingers are covering where it would go so its hard to be sure.

Sidebody or not, I was under the impression that a true drape cut was the terminating dart. I don't think it can be called a sidebody with a terminating dart. If a dart doesn't terminate it is just a seam.

 

[Slewfoot]

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



Sidebody or not, I was under the impression that a true drape cut was the terminating dart. I don't think it can be called a sidebody with a terminating dart. If a dart doesn't terminate it is just a seam.

Which end of the dart are we talking about? Only one end of the dart has to terminate for it to be a dart (rather than a seam). Usually the top end goes right into the arm-scye, it is the bottom end which either terminates at the pocket for a normal under-arm dart (no side-body) or carries onto the hem to become the side-body seam.

Your prevous post said it "shouldn't reach the armhole", which suggests that you're talking about the top end of the dart?

 

[patrickBOOTH]



Which end of the dart are we talking about? Only one end of the dart has to terminate for it to be a dart (rather than a seam). Usually the top end goes right into the arm-scye, it is the bottom end which either terminates at the pocket for a normal under-arm dart (no side-body) or carries onto the hem to become the side-body seam.
Your prevous post said it "shouldn't reach the armhole", which suggests that you're talking about the top end of the dart?

That's correct.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



That's correct.

Ah, well I don't really know about the drape cut in particular; it does look like in a drape cut the dart can be terminated short of the scye, as you have described, though I'm not sure that it's necessarily required in all instances:

 

[Despos]

This shows how to adjust a standard type fitting pattern to drape jacket. Have only seen the under arm dart moved forward and ending before reaching the armhole done by English cutters. If Italians employ this method, I haven't encountered it. If you notice the waist line is moved down quite a bit as is the lower pocket. Chest is made wider by extending out the neck point and at the armhole. Thanks for posting.
Do you know what era or decade the Whyfe system is from?

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



Do you know what era or decade the Whyfe system is from?

The post of Sator's which I took the image from says that it is from 1949.

 

[F. Corbera]

All my Steeds have the underarm dart terminating before reaching the armscye.

 

[S. Able]

As do mine. I have heard them referred to as "cuts." I once tried to have excess chest fabric removed through these cuts. It didn't work out too well.