SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[Mr October]

Does anyone have experience with this S&M tuxedo? I just found out I’ll need a tux in a month or so and I’m considering my options. https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/midnight-navy-barathea-8950-hr01t

 

[Rhodia]

In my opinion, unless you’re talking full-on military dress uniforms, brass buttons on suit jackets are a major faux pax. If the blazer has brass buttons, there’s very little chance it’ll be mistaken for an orphaned suit jacket.

Mostly agree with everything else.

My understanding is that "blazer" specifically refers to a navy odd jacket with brass or metal buttons. So yes, it draws on the military history and its origins are clearly military (like virtually all menswear).

A navy odd jacket (or any other color) is not a "blazer" in the strict sense. Obviously everything is called a blazer today.

I have now seen this week ever iteration of the pocket and DB. @dieworkwear has brass buttons in his Fall rundown this year (https://dieworkwear.com/2024/11/15/excited-to-wear-this-fall-4/), and there you can see King Charles in a DB with jetted pockets and metal buttons (which is odd today, given we associate them mostly with tuxedos). Then, on the right, is a DB with brass and patch (and jeans).

If I wanted the most versatile, I'd probably go with flap too. It can be dressed up easier than patch.

That said, wearing anything beyond the formality of a company polo is, at this point, practically black tie, so any tailored clothing is worthy of praise.

 

[NORE]

Decided to wear it this evening. In keeping with the washed out picture theme (pockets are still sewn shut so no cool poses):

 

[ColdEyedPugilist]

I recently received my first DB SC ever, (not a DB fan, but it was cheaper than the SB) and I can tell you its amazing! Here are some washed out pics (in true S&M fashion):

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Checked out your YouTube, mate… I kopped the same navy POW check suit! Haven’t been able to get my hands on it - I’m overseas at the moment - but your vid has sure whetted my appetite!!

 

[kylebwells]

Recently picked up this 40s contemporary as a base to order a custom M2M off off. All in all I am very happy with the fit, but open to feedback. Couple of questions:

1) Any ideas on what I should adjust to get the pucker out from between the shoulder blades?

2) I notice that these Neapolitan jackets tend to poof off my shoulders rather than fall like a waterfall. Is that a size adjustment or just how the jacket is made? If I grab the sleeve opening and pull down slightly it falls like I want.

 

[CLH03]

Recently picked up this 40s contemporary as a base to order a custom M2M off off. All in all I am very happy with the fit, but open to feedback. Couple of questions:

1) Any ideas on what I should adjust to get the pucker out from between the shoulder blades?

2) I notice that these Neapolitan jackets tend to poof off my shoulders rather than fall like a waterfall. Is that a size adjustment or just how the jacket is made? If I grab the sleeve opening and pull down slightly it falls like I want.
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Way better than the other size you tried.

The shoulder needs to be narrowed a touch, in my opinion. I like the way it looks as is, but if you want that natural rounded shoulder I would narrow it slightly.

 

[NORE]

Checked out your YouTube, mate… I kopped the same navy POW check suit! Haven’t been able to get my hands on it - I’m overseas at the moment - but your vid has sure whetted my appetite!!

I was on the fence when they had it listed as 206g, when they corrected it to 310g? instakop. One of my faves for sure. You're going to love it!

 

[NORE]

Recently picked up this 40s contemporary as a base to order a custom M2M off off. All in all I am very happy with the fit, but open to feedback. Couple of questions:

1) Any ideas on what I should adjust to get the pucker out from between the shoulder blades?

2) I notice that these Neapolitan jackets tend to poof off my shoulders rather than fall like a waterfall. Is that a size adjustment or just how the jacket is made? If I grab the sleeve opening and pull down slightly it falls like I want.
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Looks good for out of the box. I think the sleevehead will fall the way you want if the sleeves are shortened and not sitting on your hands. Also, I would give the jacket a proper press before making any decisions. You'd be amazed how just pressing a garment can alter the look.

 

[tmckay2]

Recently picked up this 40s contemporary as a base to order a custom M2M off off. All in all I am very happy with the fit, but open to feedback. Couple of questions:

1) Any ideas on what I should adjust to get the pucker out from between the shoulder blades?

2) I notice that these Neapolitan jackets tend to poof off my shoulders rather than fall like a waterfall. Is that a size adjustment or just how the jacket is made? If I grab the sleeve opening and pull down slightly it falls like I want.
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Now we are getting somewhere! Honestly although a tailor could do a few things personally I'd shorten the sleeves and leave it. Its going to look better than what 95% of people wear and with slight fluctuations in weight any small change you make may not be worth the cost to have it done, but that's just my opinion.

 

[inTROYspection]

Some reviews on outerwear:

Charcoal Flannel Down Blazer - Big fan. I lean more towards "Smart Casual" nowadays working in tech. Great fit off the rack, no down coming out, awesome material.

Navy Tweed Flight Jacket - Not a fan. Fit was strange for me. Took it in my usual size (42). It was too short (though this seems to be the intended look from the model pictures, just not for me), the sleeves were too long, and I think the chest is a little too slim (hard to use the side pockets when unbuttoned).

Any other folks want to share their "Smart Casual" favorites?

Thanks for the reviews. What size did you go for in the down blazer?

 

[kylebwells]

Now we are getting somewhere! Honestly although a tailor could do a few things personally I'd shorten the sleeves and leave it. Its going to look better than what 95% of people wear and with slight fluctuations in weight any small change you make may not be worth the cost to have it done, but that's just my opinion.

Thanks for the feedback. That plan makes sense if I was keeping this jacket. But sense I plan to order a custom, I am wondering if it is worth changing anything / possible to fix some of these small things like the dimple across the shoulder blades.

 

[JohnE]

Gentlemen,

I'm considering picking up this tobacco linen suit. Thoughts on this with cuffed trousers? I'm 6'2".

I can't quite decide if the vibes are right. Here's some research

 

[BeraQueezy]

Gentlemen,

I'm considering picking up this tobacco linen suit. Thoughts on this with cuffed trousers? I'm 6'2".
View attachment 2315949

I can't quite decide if the vibes are right. Here's some research

always cuff your trousers

 

[Rhodia]

Thanks for the feedback. That plan makes sense if I was keeping this jacket. But sense I plan to order a custom, I am wondering if it is worth changing anything / possible to fix some of these small things like the dimple across the shoulder blades.

I would note that even with MTO, there can be slight variation. As @tmckay2 and @NORE noted, slight changes to body weight and just wearing and moving around in the jacket can affect how it looks. I would also add that fabric variation in SM sportcoats affects how they drape. Heavier vs. lighter cloth makes a notable difference in how shoulders and back drape.

You could certainly tweak the current sportcoat if you have a good, trusted tailor. That might smooth out the back. I personally agree with others - this looks very good off the rack. I would shorten the sleeves slightly, steam or press it, and then wear it once or twice to see how it settles.

As for MTO, it may be easier to have your tailor make slight adjustments than completing them via your order, unless you know exactly how to adjust Spier's stock measurements.

 

[KlarkKent]

Gentlemen,

I'm considering picking up this tobacco linen suit. Thoughts on this with cuffed trousers? I'm 6'2".
View attachment 2315949

I can't quite decide if the vibes are right. Here's some research

I think it would look good.

Turn up/cuffs to me look good on casual stuff. I don't like em when I see them on dark formal looking wool suits but for casual colors/tweeds/linens etc I think it's cool. The tobacco color and linen both add to the casual vibe so I think styling them with cuffs is completely in line.