Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread

[patrickBOOTH]

@patrickBOOTH
I took your suggestion about Pinaud shave cream and tried it for the first time today. I was a bit underwhelmed, but I'll give it some time. Unless of course I got the wrong one...

Clubman Shave Soap

Clubman Shave Soap leaves skin feeling refreshed and smooth with no razor burn or irritation. Shop now.

www.clubmanonline.com

That's the one. It is the least fickle shave soap I have ever come across.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

More fragrances this weekend I obtained: Shocking by Schiaparelli. I bought it based on it being said to be the grandmother of Paco Rabanne Le Nuit, which is one of my new favorites. It is discontinued, but I got an old 100ml bottle. I get a spicy honey at the opening that dries down to a patchouli civet. I can see Le Nuit is compared to it, but I find Le Nuit to be bigger and better, but also more offensive if dirty Chypre isn't your thing. It was a blind buy and I am not disappointed.

My girlfriend also gave me a blind buy she made of vintage Aramis. To me it smells a lot like Cabochard/Yatagan/Bandit. Apparently there is this synthetic "tobacco" accord used in a lot of vintage that she doesn't like called iso butyl quinoline, which is in all of them. She has a great nose for this stuff and has been learning a lot about fragrance chemistry. Also there is this particular kind of Ambroxan that she can't stand and has a very negative reaction to, however I can't smell it at all. So strange.

 

[jdp234]

More fragrances this weekend I obtained: Shocking by Schiaparelli. I bought it based on it being said to be the grandmother of Paco Rabanne Le Nuit, which is one of my new favorites. It is discontinued, but I got an old 100ml bottle. I get a spicy honey at the opening that dries down to a patchouli civet. I can see Le Nuit is compared to it, but I find Le Nuit to be bigger and better, but also more offensive if dirty Chypre isn't your thing. It was a blind buy and I am not disappointed.

My girlfriend also gave me a blind buy she made of vintage Aramis. To me it smells a lot like Cabochard/Yatagan/Bandit. Apparently there is this synthetic "tobacco" accord used in a lot of vintage that she doesn't like called iso butyl quinoline, which is in all of them. She has a great nose for this stuff and has been learning a lot about fragrance chemistry. Also there is this particular kind of Ambroxan that she can't stand and has a very negative reaction to, however I can't smell it at all. So strange.

Aramis is definitely squarely in that leather chypre family with Cabochard, Bandit, etc. Bernard Chant did both Aramis and Cabochard and there is absolutely a lot in common between them. (Chant also did Lauder Azuree, which was the Lauder feminine leather chypre 'matched' to Aramis, in the same way the house did female/male pairings of a green chypre with Aliage/Devin, and a green/floral/patchouli chypre with Aromatics Elixir/Aramis 900). I love old Aramis exactly because of that sharp IBQ-castoreum combination.

Yatagan (which I wore yesterday, vintage in the morning topped up with some current in the evening) is sort of the odd duck of those you mentioned with the pine-forest-and-celery grafted into the structure but also at the end of the day fair to call it a leather chypre as well.

Vintage Halston Z-14 for me today; this was a really, really well done scent that Elizabeth Arden has totally and utterly ruined. Hard to categorize it, it is a cross between a green leather chypre and an aromatic fougere almost, with a big slug of citrus and cypress.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I need more green chypres in my life. I really like Le Jade and Onycha from DSH.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Aramis is definitely squarely in that leather chypre family with Cabochard, Bandit, etc. Bernard Chant did both Aramis and Cabochard and there is absolutely a lot in common between them. (Chant also did Lauder Azuree, which was the Lauder feminine leather chypre 'matched' to Aramis, in the same way the house did female/male pairings of a green chypre with Aliage/Devin, and a green/floral/patchouli chypre with Aromatics Elixir/Aramis 900). I love old Aramis exactly because of that sharp IBQ-castoreum combination.

Yatagan (which I wore yesterday, vintage in the morning topped up with some current in the evening) is sort of the odd duck of those you mentioned with the pine-forest-and-celery grafted into the structure but also at the end of the day fair to call it a leather chypre as well.

Vintage Halston Z-14 for me today; this was a really, really well done scent that Elizabeth Arden has totally and utterly ruined. Hard to categorize it, it is a cross between a green leather chypre and an aromatic fougere almost, with a big slug of citrus and cypress.

How do you identify a vintage Halston from the reformulation?

 

[jdp234]

How do you identify a vintage Halston from the reformulation?

my memory is you want Halston Fragrances or French Fragrances Intl as the manufacturer? But people say the Jeff Gordon edition from the 90s-early 2000s (made by Arden) is pretty good and reasonably true to form.

 

[MaiLam]

Bvlgari Thé Noir today, first time I've experienced a fragrance that really differs on the skin. On clothes/sample card it has a nice almost fruity opening, whereas on my skin the opening is gourmand, reminding me slightly of coffee (ironic, given its name) or a generally dark profile. Thankfully the dry-down is the same no matter where applied.

It came with a sample of Wood Neroli, which is a nice scent for summer. Very linear and not many notes present, but I quite like something about a simple, honest scent. Good performance too.

 

[jdp234]

Guerlain Heritage EdT today, from a vintage 'gold cap' bottle. I also have a 10ml of the current EdP; this is another where they've done a decent job keeping up with the reformulations. Heritage is IMO the last of the great Guerlain masculines, and smells extremely Guerlain-ish - it's huge, complex, symphonic even, with a stonking patchouli/sandalwood/civet base alongside the Guerlinade vanilla/musk/amber. It's a formal, perhaps more mature scent (for those who care), in the same general family as Creed Bois du Portugal, PdN New York, etc.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I love Guerlain so much. I do feel like most of their popular fragrances are kind of Jicky flankers, but I don't care. I love me some Guerlain pissy scents.

This weekend I wore a bunch of Vol de Nuit.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

..

 

[rach2jlc]

Need a little pick-me-up during quarantine, so I'm pulling out my vintage DIORELLA parfum out of the wine cooler. Even in its current (re) formulation, it gives the spirit of the original. Pound for pound, it's still the greatest fragrance in history, with JICKY a very close runner-up.

Diorella for spring/summer and Jicky for fall/winter... I think honestly you could cover just about every occasion and situation.

 

[rach2jlc]

So, I've been thinking lately during quarantine just WHY I love Roudnitska scents so much (Diorella, Diorissimo, Eau d'hermes, etc).

I think these days fragrance buyers want a "journey" and an "experience." They want to be taken on a voyage.

Roudnitska never did that. Diorella, like I said above, is probably his greatest creation, and it's never a journey or an experience. Instead, it's a conundrum. You sniff it and you can't figure it out. It's a chemistry set; it's an intellectual conversation.

You don't ever say "I'm in Hong Kong on a boat" with a Roudnitska scent. Instead, you say "what is this? I get lemon, baby ****, and toothpaste." And ten minutes later, "wait, now it's like wet fur and incense." And then again later "I have no idea what this is."

It INTRIGUES you. I don't get intrigue from the vast array of recent scents. I get "journeys" and "adventures," but no intrigue.

For me, a great scent is one that you never are able to figure out, but that you love. Something that you SMELL, but that makes you think. Something you describe less in concrete images than in random, strange associations. Jicky does that; Diorella does that. Very few others do.

Okay, flame off.

 

[venividivicibj]

Creed Royal Mayfair today

 

[Guitar Preacher]

So, I've been thinking lately during quarantine just WHY I love Roudnitska scents so much (Diorella, Diorissimo, Eau d'hermes, etc).

I think these days fragrance buyers want a "journey" and an "experience." They want to be taken on a voyage.

Roudnitska never did that. Diorella, like I said above, is probably his greatest creation, and it's never a journey or an experience. Instead, it's a conundrum. You sniff it and you can't figure it out. It's a chemistry set; it's an intellectual conversation.

You don't ever say "I'm in Hong Kong on a boat" with a Roudnitska scent. Instead, you say "what is this? I get lemon, baby ****, and toothpaste." And ten minutes later, "wait, now it's like wet fur and incense." And then again later "I have no idea what this is."

It INTRIGUES you. I don't get intrigue from the vast array of recent scents. I get "journeys" and "adventures," but no intrigue.

For me, a great scent is one that you never are able to figure out, but that you love. Something that you SMELL, but that makes you think. Something you describe less in concrete images than in random, strange associations. Jicky does that; Diorella does that. Very few others do.

Okay, flame off.

I need to pick up some of his books he’s my favorite perfumer and I still have a bunch of Roudnitska creations to smell.

Ive started sampling Santa Maria Novella. Most enjoyed were Opoponax and Potpourri (oddly). Also got a sample of Copal Azur by Aedes de Venustas. Smells like a modern designer perfume but still quite enjoyable. I think it might be the cardamom? Up next are a heap of Les Bains Guerbois and Cire Trudon samples. Anyone tried anything from the later?

 

[shoewarma]

I haven't revisited my two samples of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier in a while because I've been so underwhelmed by them, but I chose to wear Route du Vetiver.

Yep, still don't like it. It's really bland and forgettable. It comes across as this really interesting take of vetiver with a fruity touch, but it doesn't register like that with my nose.

What I get is a dill pickle brine scent. It's really salty and not much else. I mean, to be fair, I still get the vetiver and a mellow, yet somewhat bright grassy accord, but they're so tame compared to the annoying saltiness that lasts from start to finish.

I know it's just a small sample, but it's just one of those really disappointing experiences that leaves you so bitter such that you're completely turned off of the brand. Same with Santal Noble. They read well on paper, but they're unworthy when smelled.

I'll put on something more exciting tomorrow. I can see myself revisiting them, but I doubt I'll change my mind.