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** Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread ** (reviews, quality, etc...)

flylikeneagle

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PXL_20250104_222448753.PORTRAIT.jpg
PXL_20250104_222703747.PORTRAIT.jpg
 

Menninki

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Ah ok i get it now. You meant the lining itself on the tongue 👍

From experience, do you prefer a half or full bellows tongue ?
Are you sure a bellows tongue can be added at all? In the GMTO Islay and my hiking boots it is one, single piece of leather. That you can do only when originally cutting the leather. Maybe it can be stitched later on - I don't know.

Regarding your question I would go with half tongue as well. It adds to the water resistance so can you walk securely over occasional puddles and helps with tongue slip as well. I do some hiking in wilderness and I have two hiking boots for that with full bellows. It makes sense in those shoes, but for city walks or occasional walks in the hills I think full bellows would be an overkill. So, depends pretty much on what you are using your boots for.

If tongue slip is your main concern, then why not just add a lace loop?
 

Humpty_Dumpty_Rises

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Are you sure a bellows tongue can be added at all? In the GMTO Islay and my hiking boots it is one, single piece of leather. That you can do only when originally cutting the leather. Maybe it can be stitched later on - I don't know.

Regarding your question I would go with half tongue as well. It adds to the water resistance so can you walk securely over occasional puddles and helps with tongue slip as well. I do some hiking in wilderness and I have two hiking boots for that with full bellows. It makes sense in those shoes, but for city walks or occasional walks in the hills I think full bellows would be an overkill. So, depends pretty much on what you are using your boots for.

If tongue slip is your main concern, then why not just add a lace loop?
Hi @Menninki , im not concerned about tongue slip personally as the tongue has never bothered me when wearing boots. Ofcourse, in my boots that have a half bellows tongue, the wearing experience is a far better one.

I was asking people here as i wanted views and to hear about people's experience of half vs full bellows tongue. So that i can propose one or the other in a future GMTO. The fact that C&J charge £50+ to add a half bellows tongue is a bit opportunistic since its a fairly standard feature found (e.g., in Trickers and Cheaney boots).

But in terms of standard production, the fact that C&J chooses to avoid this feature and stick to a loose flappy tongue in their boots, must have some reasoning otlr wisdom behind it.
 

Menninki

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Regarding the lined tongue that @Marmite89 just mentioned. I had not payed attention to lining a tongue before and it got me thinking. Can a tongue be both half-bellows and lined as well? If possible, then this I suppose would be more than £50 on an MTO.
 

Humpty_Dumpty_Rises

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Regarding the lined tongue that @Marmite89 just mentioned. I had not payed attention to lining a tongue before and it got me thinking. Can a tongue be both half-bellows and lined as well? If possible, then this I suppose would be more than £50 on an MTO.
Most tongues are lined anyway at this price point. The £50+ is for half bellows tongue on GMTO's
 

Menninki

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I agree. Boots that high need at least a half bellow tongue. My Eskdale 2 misbehaves on one foot and I hate it. Unless I tie it quite tight, it slides right down the boot exposing my socks. I have a RMW Rickaby boot that has a leather lined tongue and a cutout to slide the lace in to prevent it from moving. If I buy another pair of boots, defo needs to have something to stop movement. But I won't be buying anymore boots...I need to stop looking at pictures of the Grizedale and stop coming here

goodbye
You can give it a try, but I recall someone said in this forum before that this is like Hotel California:

"You can check out anytime you like, but you can never leave..." :)
 

aquatherm

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You can give it a try, but I recall someone said in this forum before that this is like Hotel California:

"You can check out anytime you like, but you can never leave..." :)
True, still coming and going for over 15 years.

WRT tongues, I dont care about lined vs unlined, but half bellows are a must for me too especially for the taller boots like Islay
 

Rhodia

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Just received my Harvard 2 in the Dark Brown suede and I'm wondering how those of you with high insteps found the stretching in the suede.

C&J Harvard.jpg


My other (lesser brand) suede loafers eventually stretched out quite a bit. As a high instep fellow, loafers are never amazingly comfortable from the get-go. Always tight across the instep, but the size (9.5E UK) is my usual one (10.5D US) and fits well elsewhere.

No real heel slip at all, but the 376 has a narrowed heel cup compared to the 314, and a size bigger would stretch too much, I fear. My current loafers are almost falling off after years of wear.
 

SailingIvy

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Just received my Harvard 2 in the Dark Brown suede and I'm wondering how those of you with high insteps found the stretching in the suede.

View attachment 2309325

My other (lesser brand) suede loafers eventually stretched out quite a bit. As a high instep fellow, loafers are never amazingly comfortable from the get-go. Always tight across the instep, but the size (9.5E UK) is my usual one (10.5D US) and fits well elsewhere.

No real heel slip at all, but the 376 has a narrowed heel cup compared to the 314, and a size bigger would stretch too much, I fear. My current loafers are almost falling off after years of wear.
They definitely soften up and give. You shouldn't get them super tight but a snug fit is advised I think. Tho I must admit I have slim feet with no high instep...
 

Rhodia

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They definitely soften up and give. You shouldn't get them super tight but a snug fit is advised I think. Tho I must admit I have slim feet with no high instep...
Thanks for the reply. My confusion was alleviated with a visit to C&J's website, which advise that some of the loafer lasts (which they characterize as "shorter") are to be sized down by only 1/2, not a full size, from UK to US. This includes the 376.

I also picked up the Connaught 2, which fits excellent (cross lacing temporary). This size difference from last to last is why I was on the fence. But the 9.5UK Harvard 2 is definitely too short.

C&J Connaught 2.jpg


Interestingly enough, C&J claims that the 379 is slightly shorter, but my toes fit right where they should (with space) compared to the 376.
 

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