** Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread ** (reviews, quality, etc...)

[YellowHandUp]

Thanks again for all ur help!

I went through the website again to see and shortlist options & look for any other pairs that i might have missed

I finally have shortlisted
- Dark Brown Suede Oxford eg Hallam
Or
- a black calf leather loafer eg Grantham 2. Not sure if I need to go to handgrade ie Bury 2 or Harcourt for a daily use shoe.

Both of them should be versatile and while oxford is a formal shape the suede aspect will casualise it whereas black leather may sound formal but a loafer may casualise it.

Happy to hear any thoughts?

I think I could go to the retail outlet and choose depending on a better fit. From reading this thread i note that Grantham 2 is made on a last which was meant for japanese/ asian customers with relatively slimmer heels. Hence, on paper it seems it might have a better fit.

Oxford in suede helps to make an outfit smart casual. C&J range of suede colours in Oxford is quite broad underlying the importance of this style. C&Js are made to be worn. So go hand grade if you like them. If you rotate them and care for them, the per year cost will represent exceptional value.

 

[Pascal1980]

And as YellowHand writes, the handgrade shoes are great!

I have my first handgrade shoes from Cheaney here on the dinner table. The welt stiching is much more crude compared to C&J benchgrade and handgrade.

I also looked at Edward Green at the local high-quality retailer "Diehl & Diehl".

In my opinion, C&J offers in the benchgrade and handgrade the better craftsmanship, or the same level of quality and craftsmanship as Edward Green but cheaper.

Enjoy your weekend and best regards

Pascal

 

[Pascal1980]

So leather is not water proof, if it gets soaked there is a risk of a negative affect. Different strokes for different folks, but I have to say I have never had your experience. For my lighter colored suede, I have had the occasion to soak them pretty good for cleaning, when I‘ve had the misfortune of spilling food on them. They always re-emerged in great shape.

Hello everybody,

I also accidentally walked, literally, with my brand-new light-brown suede double monks into a heavy rain last summer. The waterproofing spray did great of an perling effect, the raindrops just sliding of the shoe. After 30 minutes or so also my socks good wet. At home I stuffed the shoes with newspaper to get them dry and immediately swipped of the rain on the surface with a dry towel. The next day the shoes were dry and I brushed them off thouroughly. No stains or anything remained, as I dried them from the inside with newspaper and from the outside with a clean towel immediately. I brushed them off again, cleaned a few spots at the tips with a suede brush, the rubber bar like an eraser, and then used the nuvuk & suede spray for light brown. After the norishment spray dryed I brushed them again and applied the waterproofing spray again, all from "Collonil 1909". With saphier it would work the same way.

The shoes are perfectly clean and hold up in water better than calf leather.

That is why many boots for the fall are in dark brown suede and have a dainite or cleated rubber sole.

Hence I like suede shows, also in dark brown and black in summer with my lighter blue and beige suits with an Italien style. Hence suede is not "Classic British conservative", but in summer with a lighter colored suit really easy to wear and more breathable as it is not waxed.

Best regards

Pascal

 

[shoefan57]

And as YellowHand writes, the handgrade shoes are great!

I have my first handgrade shoes from Cheaney here on the dinner table. The welt stiching is much more crude compared to C&J benchgrade and handgrade.

I also looked at Edward Green at the local high-quality retailer "Diehl & Diehl".

In my opinion, C&J offers in the benchgrade and handgrade the better craftsmanship, or the same level of quality and craftsmanship as Edward Green but cheaper.

Enjoy your weekend and best regards

Pascal

I agree that the stitching and finishing on the Cheaney Imperial line is cruder than with the C&J Handgrade line and, indeed with the benchgrade line too. However I don’t agree that the C&J offerings are as good as Edward Green. They are not far behind however.

 

[Markintosh]

And as YellowHand writes, the handgrade shoes are great!

I have my first handgrade shoes from Cheaney here on the dinner table. The welt stiching is much more crude compared to C&J benchgrade and handgrade.

I also looked at Edward Green at the local high-quality retailer "Diehl & Diehl".

In my opinion, C&J offers in the benchgrade and handgrade the better craftsmanship, or the same level of quality and craftsmanship as Edward Green but cheaper.

Enjoy your weekend and best regards

Pascal

Agree here for sure...when up against EG or JL, I think C&J is really in the sweet spot in terms of quality/price. I'm probably biased however, because their G fitting in both the Boston and Pembroke fit me so well. I have a high instep and they fit perfectly right out of the box with no break-in required. In addition, when compared to Alden, C&J does provide some nice extra perks - the dust bags are thick and well made, and the shoe boxes (I save them) are way ahead of Alden, larger, and last for years. The Alden dust bags are thin and tear, and the shoes boxes are very thin and too small.

 

[zippyh]

The rain is bad for suede is a popular misconception. I had that perception myself, until a visit to the Trickers factory in Northampton. I was given a short tour of the facility by one of their bespoke makers. We got on the suede subject, and he assured me suede was one of the easiest to care for leathers. He said suede was his go to in British weather. I adopted his suggestion and now prefer suede to wear in foul weather, as they are a breeze to clean up. The only slight exception being very light colored suede.

This has been my experience as well. I live in the Seattle area where it's wet about 9 months of the year. I wear my suede all year except for very light colored suede and even then, suffered no ill effects when I have worn my light colored suede in the rain. I also rarely use suede protector spray. Usually only on the very light colors when they're new and I remember to use it.

My suede care is basically let it dry and brush the dirt off.

Oil can really f up suede though, but even then washing it with Dawn dish wash soap can take care of it.

 

[Pascal1980]

Agree here for sure...when up against EG or JL, I think C&J is really in the sweet spot in terms of quality/price. I'm probably biased however, because their G fitting in both the Boston and Pembroke fit me so well. I have a high instep and they fit perfectly right out of the box with no break-in required. In addition, when compared to Alden, C&J does provide some nice extra perks - the dust bags are thick and well made, and the shoe boxes (I save them) are way ahead of Alden, larger, and last for years. The Alden dust bags are thin and tear, and the shoes boxes are very thin and too small.

Hello Markintosh,

I tried the Edward Green shoes as well. They fitted in UK 7 much more narrow than the nice C&J handgrade Oxford "Andover" in beechnut antique calf, a perfectly nice mid-brown full-brogue oxford. I could not see and feel a difference in the leather, the welt stiching, the beveling of the waist, etc.. Maybe I do not have any experience with Edwarg Green or John Lobb except for wearing them once, and they were way to narrow fitting.

In the first week of September I am planning again a business trip to London for client meetings as a pre-study project is finished, sales meetings, etc.. Then of course I will stop by Jeremyn street in the C&J flagship store to pick-up my "Charlton" balmoral boots and at Loake to try on the "Trinity" Oxford in light-medium-brown as half-brogue oxford.

Enjoy your weekend and best regards

Pascal

 

[tarunds]

On Shoe Trees:

Although C&J recommends their shoe trees, what are your suggestions? Are only C&J shoe trees recommended or other shoe trees can be used to. If yes, any particular brands?

Also,
if you have 3-4 shoes do you have as many shoe trees or a tad less like 2-3 should suffice which can be rotated from shoes not being used currently?

thanks

 

[YellowHandUp]

On Shoe Trees:

Although C&J recommends their shoe trees, what are your suggestions? Are only C&J shoe trees recommended or other shoe trees can be used to. If yes, any particular brands?

Also,
if you have 3-4 shoes do you have as many shoe trees or a tad less like 2-3 should suffice which can be rotated from shoes not being used currently?

thanks

A pair for each. Only wood. Not bothered about brand. £20 mark and I’ll click buy!

 

[ha er]

On Shoe Trees:

Although C&J recommends their shoe trees, what are your suggestions? Are only C&J shoe trees recommended or other shoe trees can be used to. If yes, any particular brands?

Also,
if you have 3-4 shoes do you have as many shoe trees or a tad less like 2-3 should suffice which can be rotated from shoes not being used currently?

thanks

I'm afraid, for me it's more like 30-40 pairs of shoes & boots. once you have started...

you should put in trees directly after wearing the shoes and let them dry and uncrease for a day long. than you can store them without trees.

very good cedar trees are offered in europe by langer & messmer, you can order them over amazon. they fit properly for the common c&j lasts, 325, 341, 348, 379.

I own some c&j trees as well. these are of laquered acorn wood. good craftmanship, but not the lovely scent of the cedar.

 

[ha er]

https://www.amazon.de/Schuhspanner-Zedernholz-Langer-Messmer-Original/dp/B00975CE7G/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=BE1L55C2TASR&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.YIk5rtiXWhat4sIIVSdg49vl1UrAGL7G9hnjP1jjG_WAQ9aztec_25A8BUZPJHptttyj9kAJFhYoraGhCAudMqjA8WPd4XmdnjpSPYDPUHDD1QuKeh1sJXZ_6kXXNiLysoD4tRQAH7h0AreVz9z0x7r_sRgnIGiJlHGdDwsnFHfKwdPx_2kbb8zJxFE_6_T8.j7G9SYRX1JrPn136qw8CEd4TfWW3JA9zsVABKHrcNH4&dib_tag=se&keywords=langner+%26+messmer&qid=1722153623&sprefix=langner+%2Caps%2C478&sr=8-2

 

[DorianGreen]

On Shoe Trees:

Although C&J recommends their shoe trees, what are your suggestions? Are only C&J shoe trees recommended or other shoe trees can be used to. If yes, any particular brands?

Also,
if you have 3-4 shoes do you have as many shoe trees or a tad less like 2-3 should suffice which can be rotated from shoes not being used currently?

thanks

A generic, good quality tree will work well for the most lasts, no need to go for the branded ones.

And yes, you don't need a pair of trees for every pair of shoes, you can easily rotate them.

 

[Markintosh]

On Shoe Trees:

Although C&J recommends their shoe trees, what are your suggestions? Are only C&J shoe trees recommended or other shoe trees can be used to. If yes, any particular brands?

Also,
if you have 3-4 shoes do you have as many shoe trees or a tad less like 2-3 should suffice which can be rotated from shoes not being used currently?

thanks

I agree with what others have said. I also have 30+ pairs, 7 of them C&J, I have a pair of shoe trees for every pair. I think the big difference is if the tree is a lasted tree, meaning the shoe tree is made specifically for that model. They do this at JM Weston, and the trees are made of lime wood. You would not get these for C&J - this is just an example - I use these for the two pairs of JMW that I have:

https://eu.jmweston.com/en/collections/embauchoirs

I don't know if the C&J trees are lasted, but I'm sure they are high quality like everything C&J sells.

For the majority of my shoes, including all my C&J, I use Royal Heritage Men's Cedar Shoe Trees - Ultimate Edition - VALUE-PACK - they cost $39 for two sets, and each shoe tree is marked Left or Right. What I like about this is in my penny loafers, they take out the creasing in the vamp. I get them from Amazon. I've got 20+ sets and never had a problem. They smell great and are really well made - they have a nice metallic handle as well.

 

[ha er]

the royal heritage trees look very symmetric to their middle axis.
I presume this could not be the best fit for the most shoes of crockett & jones!?

 

[ha er]

just as comparison