Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[jonathanS]

I'm not sure if they have more than one range but I recently took delivery of a Caccioppoli 330 gram 100% linen jacket (haven't had the opportunity to wear it yet). I can't speak to how well it would hold up as trousers, though I suspect not as well as one would like.

Marco seemed to be of that opinion. He told me they didn’t hold up well when he made them. The fox linen I ordered was with him. That was when it first came out - I’ve learned let people order the fabric before having something made. Let it run for atleast a year.

I have a vintage wool - linen blend solaro. It’s being finished now. It was cut by satoki kawai (rip), so it took a bit longer to finish. But, those trousers probably won’t be the greatest. Thankfully it’s not an everyday suit.

 

[epsilon22]

Marco seemed to be of that opinion. He told me they didn’t hold up well when he made them. The fox linen I ordered was with him. That was when it first came out - I’ve learned let people order the fabric before having something made. Let it run for atleast a year.

I have a vintage wool - linen blend solaro. It’s being finished now. It was cut by satoki kawai (rip), so it took a bit longer to finish. But, those trousers probably won’t be the greatest. Thankfully it’s not an everyday suit.

How did your trousers wardrobe revamp go? I recently reached out to Marco asking about ordering bespoke (thanks for your recommendation), and I'm thinking of getting some fabrics similar to what you were considering, like Fox Air and Ascot 2-ply for my first orders. No replies yet maybe he'a busy since it's his trunk show week.

 

[Concordia]

not to say it isn't worth it, but man...that is a hefty price tag for the fabric! You're almost duty bound to give it to an A+ tailor.

Curious if anybody here has given the Everest the sport coat treatment.

The Etna. That is a lot already for a sport coat.

 

[ppk]

$1K per meter is a tough pill to swallow...

Yeah. That's beyond me.

 

[ppk]

Yes, agreed the 1kg cashmere needs to be given to a proper tailor.

It's going to be a good tailor.

 

[twuthetiger]

Finally received the correct clothes. The green tweed on the left was shipped to me by mistake. The middle one, to my surpirse is actually quite a heavy tweed (20 oz 😲). The folks at Campbells did ask me which to keep as I only paid for 2. Now I'm debating wether the 20 oz tweed is too stiff for a jacket..

 

[jonathanS]

How did your trousers wardrobe revamp go? I recently reached out to Marco asking about ordering bespoke (thanks for your recommendation), and I'm thinking of getting some fabrics similar to what you were considering, like Fox Air and Ascot 2-ply for my first orders. No replies yet maybe he'a busy since it's his trunk show week.

They’re awesome - my only complaint is that it’s too cold to wear them!! Are you hoping to meet him in New York or Los Angeles? If so, his trunk show in New York is today and tomorrow. Then Los Angeles later in the week (not sure).

 

[epsilon22]

They’re awesome - my only complaint is that it’s too cold to wear them!! Are you hoping to meet him in New York or Los Angeles? If so, his trunk show in New York is today and tomorrow. Then Los Angeles later in the week (not sure).

Haha I guess they can be too breezy when it's still cold outside. I actually have more "mid weight" high twist trousers (VBC/Drapers 4-ply and Dugdale NFW) than in the really light weight fabrics (VBC/Drapers 2-ply), so I'll probably get 2-3 pairs in 2-ply, Fox Air, or even the 250g Fresco, will see what he recommends.

 

[jonathanS]

Haha I guess they can be too breezy when it's still cold outside. I actually have more "mid weight" high twist trousers (VBC/Drapers 4-ply and Dugdale NFW) than in the really light weight fabrics (VBC/Drapers 2-ply), so I'll probably get 2-3 pairs in 2-ply, Fox Air, or even the 250g Fresco, will see what he recommends.

That sounds like a plan. I think you can’t go wrong with any of them. I found 4 ply too heavy for the dead of summer.

 

[The Chai]

100% navy kid mohair and 100% light grey silk ready for fitting...

 

[Orrberget]

Finally received the correct clothes. The green tweed on the left was shipped to me by mistake. The middle one, to my surpirse is actually quite a heavy tweed (20 oz 😲). The folks at Campbells did ask me which to keep as I only paid for 2. Now I'm debating wether the 20 oz tweed is too stiff for a jacket..
View attachment 2313963 View attachment 2313965 View attachment 2313967

Keep them all! 🔥

 

[ZRH1]

I believe there was a lighter weight 480gram cashmere as well. I think Andy (style after 50) gave it to sexton to make, if I recall correctly.

Yes, agreed the 1kg cashmere needs to be given to a proper tailor. I think that’s why several give it to kotaro, or qemal. If I recall correctly, kotaro cut 4 of those coats before saying “no more.” He told me it was like stitching a rug because it was so thick! Lol. Also I think it broke his needles.

I can confirm another tailor said he struggled heavily and won't do it again.

 

[bjhofkin]

Yes, agreed the 1kg cashmere needs to be given to a proper tailor. I think that’s why several give it to kotaro, or qemal. If I recall correctly, kotaro cut 4 of those coats before saying “no more.” He told me it was like stitching a rug because it was so thick! Lol. Also I think it broke his needles.

Maybe he was just being nice, but I've never heard that from Qemal – all he's said about it is how amazing he thinks the cloth is!

Also, I actually don't find it to be insanely thick, just super *dense* for a cashmere coating.

 

[jonathanS]

Maybe he was just being nice, but I've never heard that from Qemal – all he's said about it is how amazing he thinks the cloth is!

Also, I actually don't find it to be insanely thick, just super *dense* for a cashmere coating.

I think it’s just a lot of work for them. No one is saying the fabric is bad. How are you liking your coat btw? My tailor said it’s really thick and heavy. I chuckled to myself (knowing what kotaro said about it).

My coat should be delivered in a month or so, so I’m excited about that. Would I buy the fabric again? Probably know. 3k just in fabric isn’t cheap; but, now that I have it, I’m going to enjoy that indulgence on myself.

 

[kolecho]

I believe there was a lighter weight 480gram cashmere as well. I think Andy (style after 50) gave it to sexton to make, if I recall correctly.

Yes, agreed the 1kg cashmere needs to be given to a proper tailor. I think that’s why several give it to kotaro, or qemal. If I recall correctly, kotaro cut 4 of those coats before saying “no more.” He told me it was like stitching a rug because it was so thick! Lol. Also I think it broke his needles.

Kotaro bitched about how hard it was to stitch a pre-Harrisons W. Bill Irish linen 13oz suit I ordered from some years ago. I've never heard this from any of my other tailors. Maybe he just likes to complain. But 1kg cashmere is just too much to make and to use IMHO. Only Alden can sell this idea and get his followers to fill the orders.