Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[symphvaria]

Nix the patch pockets all around. Definitely at the hips. Standard welted breast, jetted hip pockets. Double vented.

At that point, you just want the Armoury's Model 6. The whole point of the Model 16 is the triple patch pockets, no vents and no darts.

 

[ppk]

Nix the patch pockets all around. Definitely at the hips. Standard welted breast, jetted hip pockets. Double vented.

We think alike. The only other thing that I would do is pull in the waist a touch. I think it's too baggy and shapeless. I know that linen jackets are supposed to be a bit loose, but IMO, this is a bit too much.

 

[Noirkw]

Stopped by Osaka for 2 days just to meet Higashi-san

Started a bespoke db,
My own fabric, vintage mersolair 28114 (older tobacco version)

 

[Rowqk777]

Hi all. I wanted your opinion/advice on the following: I have recently put forward an order for a sportcoat - SB, patch pockets, half lined, no frills (no fuddy duddyness) - albeit, its bespoke as I really wanted no dart on the front (a nod to the florentine cut) and pattern matching and something easy to wear for summer cocktail parties only - in and around Italy.

I have a midnight navy hopsack and a fawn coloured mockleno jacket already (again, no frills) and in a moment of madness during the appointment, I was ‘inspired’ by the late Gianni Agnelli, and upon an espresso binge pinterest hunt for caramel glencheck sportcoats - i went along with the Standeven montrose bay camel glencheck (see below)
Or the link: https://pepperlee.co.uk/collections...ng-kynoch-montrose-bay?variant=45460531544383

Intended use is for summer - i was thinking with off white or grey trousers, blue/pink shirts.

Now the honeymoon period is over, bespoke buyers remorse has kicked in, was it too bold of a choice? I only ever wear navy and greys, and only last year got into the fawn coloured jacket, but no patterns - I always played with texture!

Now I went full on with wool/silk/linen in a camel brown with light blue stripe glencheck - is it as versatile as it seems over pictures? Or do you think I should try and stop the order and go with a subtle cloth - if so, do you have any recommendations?

Would appreciate any feedback as im sure the veterans in here have gone through this headache!

 

[L.deJong]

Hi all. I wanted your opinion/advice on the following: I have recently put forward an order for a sportcoat - SB, patch pockets, half lined, no frills (no fuddy duddyness) - albeit, its bespoke as I really wanted no dart on the front (a nod to the florentine cut) and pattern matching and something easy to wear for summer cocktail parties only - in and around Italy.

I have a midnight navy hopsack and a fawn coloured mockleno jacket already (again, no frills) and in a moment of madness during the appointment, I was ‘inspired’ by the late Gianni Agnelli, and upon an espresso binge pinterest hunt for caramel glencheck sportcoats - i went along with the Standeven montrose bay camel glencheck (see below)
Or the link: https://pepperlee.co.uk/collections...ng-kynoch-montrose-bay?variant=45460531544383

Intended use is for summer - i was thinking with off white or grey trousers, blue/pink shirts.

Now the honeymoon period is over, bespoke buyers remorse has kicked in, was it too bold of a choice? I only ever wear navy and greys, and only last year got into the fawn coloured jacket, but no patterns - I always played with texture!

Now I went full on with wool/silk/linen in a camel brown with light blue stripe glencheck - is it as versatile as it seems over pictures? Or do you think I should try and stop the order and go with a subtle cloth - if so, do you have any recommendations?

Would appreciate any feedback as im sure the veterans in here have gone through this headache!

I have something similar from Orazio Luciano. Works perfectly with a blue shirt and cream trousers. I even wear it with blue trousers to match the blue overcheck. It's a very classic cloth and I think you will be fine, also nice with an off-white shirt and mid-grey trousers. Combinations are endless.

 

[DorianGreen]

Hi all. I wanted your opinion/advice on the following: I have recently put forward an order for a sportcoat - SB, patch pockets, half lined, no frills (no fuddy duddyness) - albeit, its bespoke as I really wanted no dart on the front (a nod to the florentine cut) and pattern matching and something easy to wear for summer cocktail parties only - in and around Italy.

I have a midnight navy hopsack and a fawn coloured mockleno jacket already (again, no frills) and in a moment of madness during the appointment, I was ‘inspired’ by the late Gianni Agnelli, and upon an espresso binge pinterest hunt for caramel glencheck sportcoats - i went along with the Standeven montrose bay camel glencheck (see below)
Or the link: https://pepperlee.co.uk/collections...ng-kynoch-montrose-bay?variant=45460531544383

Intended use is for summer - i was thinking with off white or grey trousers, blue/pink shirts.

Now the honeymoon period is over, bespoke buyers remorse has kicked in, was it too bold of a choice? I only ever wear navy and greys, and only last year got into the fawn coloured jacket, but no patterns - I always played with texture!

Now I went full on with wool/silk/linen in a camel brown with light blue stripe glencheck - is it as versatile as it seems over pictures? Or do you think I should try and stop the order and go with a subtle cloth - if so, do you have any recommendations?

Would appreciate any feedback as im sure the veterans in here have gone through this headache!

It seems an excellent choice to me. Very nice cloth.

 

[DaAlSh]

It seems an excellent choice to me. Very nice cloth.

I agree - you've got the basics covered, the cloth seems very nice, and eminently suitable for a summer sportscoat. I don't think you'll regret it.

Please let us know how it turns out!

 

[CLH03]

Hi all. I wanted your opinion/advice on the following: I have recently put forward an order for a sportcoat - SB, patch pockets, half lined, no frills (no fuddy duddyness) - albeit, its bespoke as I really wanted no dart on the front (a nod to the florentine cut) and pattern matching and something easy to wear for summer cocktail parties only - in and around Italy.

I have a midnight navy hopsack and a fawn coloured mockleno jacket already (again, no frills) and in a moment of madness during the appointment, I was ‘inspired’ by the late Gianni Agnelli, and upon an espresso binge pinterest hunt for caramel glencheck sportcoats - i went along with the Standeven montrose bay camel glencheck (see below)
Or the link: https://pepperlee.co.uk/collections...ng-kynoch-montrose-bay?variant=45460531544383

Intended use is for summer - i was thinking with off white or grey trousers, blue/pink shirts.

Now the honeymoon period is over, bespoke buyers remorse has kicked in, was it too bold of a choice? I only ever wear navy and greys, and only last year got into the fawn coloured jacket, but no patterns - I always played with texture!

Now I went full on with wool/silk/linen in a camel brown with light blue stripe glencheck - is it as versatile as it seems over pictures? Or do you think I should try and stop the order and go with a subtle cloth - if so, do you have any recommendations?

Would appreciate any feedback as im sure the veterans in here have gone through this headache!

I think you’re overthinking this. The cloth looks great and that is a classic pattern. I actually would pick a different button though, don’t really love those options. That part is totally up you, though

 

[tim_horton]

Hi all. I wanted your opinion/advice on the following: I have recently put forward an order for a sportcoat - SB, patch pockets, half lined, no frills (no fuddy duddyness) - albeit, its bespoke as I really wanted no dart on the front (a nod to the florentine cut) and pattern matching and something easy to wear for summer cocktail parties only - in and around Italy.

I have a midnight navy hopsack and a fawn coloured mockleno jacket already (again, no frills) and in a moment of madness during the appointment, I was ‘inspired’ by the late Gianni Agnelli, and upon an espresso binge pinterest hunt for caramel glencheck sportcoats - i went along with the Standeven montrose bay camel glencheck (see below)
Or the link: https://pepperlee.co.uk/collections...ng-kynoch-montrose-bay?variant=45460531544383

Intended use is for summer - i was thinking with off white or grey trousers, blue/pink shirts.

Now the honeymoon period is over, bespoke buyers remorse has kicked in, was it too bold of a choice? I only ever wear navy and greys, and only last year got into the fawn coloured jacket, but no patterns - I always played with texture!

Now I went full on with wool/silk/linen in a camel brown with light blue stripe glencheck - is it as versatile as it seems over pictures? Or do you think I should try and stop the order and go with a subtle cloth - if so, do you have any recommendations?

Would appreciate any feedback as im sure the veterans in here have gone through this headache!

Looks great. It's a classic pattern in a classic color. I get that it may be a departure from what you usually wear and you feel like it may stick out if you're in a group of friends wearing jeans and sweatshirts but as far as tailored clothing goes it's a winner.

Ethan Wong had a blog post on the versatility of brown checked jackets.

The Case For Brown Checked Jackets | The Styleforum Journal

Brown checked jackets might not be considered a staple in a man's wardrobe, but they are exceptionally versatile.

journal.styleforum.net

I like pairing jackets in this color with tan or dark brown trousers (depending on how much contrast you want between jacket and trousers) for a tonal look. Here is someone (from Permanent Style) in a similar cloth going for that:

I actually prefer that to the standard grey trousers but of course that works great as well.

In fact, I wear brown check jackets more than solid navy ones by far.

 

[Rowqk777]

I think you’re overthinking this. The cloth looks great and that is a classic pattern. I actually would pick a different button though, don’t really love those options. That part is totally up you, though

Yes, you’re right! They were a selection of free buttons and I didnt like those, I actually went for something more of a darker brown with less marbling (but it was stuck on a card with other buttons so I couldnt see it on the cloth)

 

[Rowqk777]

I don't like patch pockets on suits... even linen suits. I'm ok with them on sport coats, though

Looks great. It's a classic pattern in a classic color. I get that it may be a departure from what you usually wear and you feel like it may stick out if you're in a group of friends wearing jeans and sweatshirts but as far as tailored clothing goes it's a winner.

Ethan Wong had a blog post on the versatility of brown checked jackets.

The Case For Brown Checked Jackets | The Styleforum Journal

Brown checked jackets might not be considered a staple in a man's wardrobe, but they are exceptionally versatile.

journal.styleforum.net

I like pairing jackets in this color with tan or dark brown trousers (depending on how much contrast you want between jacket and trousers) for a tonal look. Here is someone (from Permanent Style) in a similar cloth going for that:
View attachment 2170831 View attachment 2170833

I actually prefer that to the standard grey trousers but of course that works great as well.

In fact, I wear brown check jackets more than solid navy ones by far.

Thankyou for your reply! The attached picture was one of the pictures I had saved for inspiration - pairing it with chambray shirts, perhaps chocolate brown linen trousers aswell!

Will post updates in about 8 weeks if anyone is interested!

 

[jonathanS]

albeit, its bespoke as I really wanted no dart on the front (a nod to the florentine cut) and pattern matching and something easy to wear for summer cocktail parties only - in and around Italy.

If this wasn’t with a florentine tailor / in your tailors house style, I’d caution against this

 

[NorwRichard]

 

[comrade]

Hi all. I wanted your opinion/advice on the following: I have recently put forward an order for a sportcoat - SB, patch pockets, half lined, no frills (no fuddy duddyness) - albeit, its bespoke as I really wanted no dart on the front (a nod to the florentine cut) and pattern matching and something easy to wear for summer cocktail parties only - in and around Italy.

I have a midnight navy hopsack and a fawn coloured mockleno jacket already (again, no frills) and in a moment of madness during the appointment, I was ‘inspired’ by the late Gianni Agnelli, and upon an espresso binge pinterest hunt for caramel glencheck sportcoats - i went along with the Standeven montrose bay camel glencheck (see below)
Or the link: https://pepperlee.co.uk/collections...ng-kynoch-montrose-bay?variant=45460531544383

Intended use is for summer - i was thinking with off white or grey trousers, blue/pink shirts.

Now the honeymoon period is over, bespoke buyers remorse has kicked in, was it too bold of a choice? I only ever wear navy and greys, and only last year got into the fawn coloured jacket, but no patterns - I always played with texture!

Now I went full on with wool/silk/linen in a camel brown with light blue stripe glencheck - is it as versatile as it seems over pictures? Or do you think I should try and stop the order and go with a subtle cloth - if so, do you have any recommendations?

Would appreciate any feedback as im sure the veterans in here have gone through this headache!

I am not a veteran, although I served as a civilian in a War Zone. Well done ! Your fabric choice is in understated good taste. This is what the old money types were purported to wear a generation or two ago before Designers and their ilk descended from the trees.

 

[jonathanS]

When i saw Kotaro yesterday, I mentioned I was thinking of some heavy worsted fabric for suiting that wasn't flannel. He mentioned "London Shrunk" as his preference, but he didn't have any with him, and was really pressed for time so we didn't get into it. I thought this was more of a treatment process applied to fabric rather than a specific fabric line. I am going to ask him to bring some for his next trip but that's all the way in November. Do any of you have any experience with it or have had anything by him made up in this? Thanks.