Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

[LoKey]

I've worn mine once so far - with a black t-shirt and jeans anticipating some dye loss and indeed I shed indigo all night long. It got everywhere. I washed my hands at the end of the night and couldn't believe how much dye was on my fingertips.

I am scared to wear it again. I was a bit afraid to wash it too - for the health of the garment itself but also for the next few loads. Now it seems that even washing wouldn't help.

Literally, I am afraid to hang it in my closet without a bag over it.

Might a dye fixative work well enough to offset the hassle of the process itself?

It's a great piece and an incredibly cool fabric, but in its current state, it's a bit useless to me outside of being a piece of art.

Concerns about the dye transfer is what led me to design a briefcase instead of a jacket. Even then, the briefcase will rub off on my lighter fabric trousers if I'm not careful. I wonder if having a lining of some sort might be helpful, though that will make the jacket less breathable.

 

[Monkeyface]

I've worn mine once so far - with a black t-shirt and jeans anticipating some dye loss and indeed I shed indigo all night long. It got everywhere. I washed my hands at the end of the night and couldn't believe how much dye was on my fingertips.

I am scared to wear it again. I was a bit afraid to wash it too - for the health of the garment itself but also for the next few loads. Now it seems that even washing wouldn't help.

Literally, I am afraid to hang it in my closet without a bag over it.

Might a dye fixative work well enough to offset the hassle of the process itself?

It's a great piece and an incredibly cool fabric, but in its current state, it's a bit useless to me outside of being a piece of art.

Naturally dyed indigo should shed a bit, but after a couple of washes it should mostly stop. I believe that if still sheds at the same pace after a couple of washes the dye has been set incorrectly, but I could be wrong about that.

I'm sure there are people with more knowledge of this fabric on SF than I have. I believe @LA Guy knows more about Sashiko.

 

[amisuh]

Hi guys

I've been reading this thread for a long time and decided to order my first trial shirt which I received today. I would really like your input on the fit. I am quite happy with the body measurments (?) and my real question is how to fix the shoulders/arms? There is quite a lot pulling when I put my hands forward as you can see below int picture before last. It is quite uncomfortable and I am wondering what measurments to adjust? My thought was to shorten the yoke and maybe add to the armhole measurement?

Please ignore the collar which is too high for me, and also the length of the shirt which I messed up.


Front and back:




After the abowe pic:



After the above pic:








After the pic above:
''

Thanks a lot

 

[emptym]

Clearly, you've got more experience than I. But, as someone who shares interest in beating the heat (I'm in in the ridiculously warm/humid central Florida), is there really that much difference from Luxire's listed 9oz10oz (280g310g) to your suggested 8/9oz? I've read that the bigger factor in heat dissipation for a given fabric at marginal weight difference is the weave, and fresco is woven specifically to be breathable, no? I'm not saying lighter weight won't be better, but is a special run to get an oz off really worth it?

I'm not jousting, I'm asking

That's a good question. I wondered the same thing when I first ordered fresco stuff. I had a few things (a couple suits, a sport coat, and pants) in the 10 oz before trying the the 8/9, and while I like both, I do think the lighter stuff is noticably cooler wearing. It also packs a bit smaller, which is helpful for travel, and it feels much softer. My first outing w/ the first 8/9 oz thing I got (mid gray pants by Luxire) was in Miami in June and they were very comfortable.

Imo the 10 oz is best for sport coats (due to its courser weave) and suits that need to be as wrinkle-resistant as possible. But the 8/9 oz is best for pants and suits that need to wear as cool as possible.

 

[Asian Afro]

Would like to know how to stop the bleeding on my sashiko jacket as well. Luxire recommends that I wash it a couple of times, which I haven't yet tried, but if that didn't work for Rincon then I'd like to hear some alternatives. I have about a month to figure this out before the weather cools down enough for me to wear it.

 

[Monkeyface]

Would like to know how to stop the bleeding on my sashiko jacket as well. Luxire recommends that I wash it a couple of times, which I haven't yet tried, but if that didn't work for Rincon then I'd like to hear some alternatives. I have about a month to figure this out before the weather cools down enough for me to wear it.

Fok wrote a whole article on Sashiko, so I'm sure he knows more. Someone summon him! @LA Guy

http://www.styleforum.net/a/clothing-for-hard-work

 

[razl]



That's a good question.  I wondered the same thing when I first ordered fresco stuff.  I had a few things (a couple suits, a sport coat, and pants) in the 10 oz before trying the the 8/9, and while I like both, I do think the lighter stuff is noticably cooler wearing. It also packs a bit smaller, which is helpful for travel, and it feels much softer.  My first outing w/ the first 8/9 oz thing I got (mid gray pants by Luxire) was in Miami in June and they were very comfortable.

 Imo the 10 oz is best for sport coats (due to its courser weave) and suits that need to be as wrinkle-resistant as possible. But the 8/9 oz is best for pants and suits that need to wear as cool as possible.  

That's good, hard-won info - thanks much for sharing!

 

[WillingToLearn]

I've been considering it too, but I'd prefer to have it in the lighter, 8/9 oz weave, which is softer and better for real heat. Minnis is usually open to producing special runs. I wonder if we'd have enough people to do one for this. Would you guys rather have it as is, 10 oz 3 ply, or would you be willing to try to get Minnis to weave the lighter one? Should be possible to get it done and made into pants before the start of the summer next year.

I am in for that

 

[p.henrik]



That's a good question.  I wondered the same thing when I first ordered fresco stuff.  I had a few things (a couple suits, a sport coat, and pants) in the 10 oz before trying the the 8/9, and while I like both, I do think the lighter stuff is noticably cooler wearing. It also packs a bit smaller, which is helpful for travel, and it feels much softer.  My first outing w/ the first 8/9 oz thing I got (mid gray pants by Luxire) was in Miami in June and they were very comfortable.

 Imo the 10 oz is best for sport coats (due to its courser weave) and suits that need to be as wrinkle-resistant as possible. But the 8/9 oz is best for pants and suits that need to wear as cool as possible.  

I only have the 10oz (which works great as a suit for London summer) but I think that the fact that the 8/9oz is 2 ply (vs the 10oz being 3) may have a bigger effect on how much cooler it is than the difference in oz implies.

 

[prozach1576]

I am excited to order some trousers in this wool/poly blend. I'm very hard on trousers but don't have the budget to keep a large rotation, so something hard-wearing that will hold up in the crotch is very appealing to me. And the price is right.

 

[razl]



I only have the 10oz (which works great as a suit for London summer) but I think that the fact that the 8/9oz is 2 ply (vs the 10oz being 3) may have a bigger effect on how much cooler it is than the difference in oz implies.

Makes sense; I clearly see and feel the difference in shirts regarding the ply.

 

[All Tatters]

Just missed the delivery of my test shoes by five minutes.

Hope to catch them tomorrow. Will post pictures if I have them.

 

[LA Guy]



Naturally dyed indigo should shed a bit, but after a couple of washes it should mostly stop. I believe that if still sheds at the same pace after a couple of washes the dye has been set incorrectly, but I could be wrong about that.


I'm sure there are people with more knowledge of this fabric on SF than I have. I believe @LA Guy
knows more about Sashiko.

Indigo is a surface dye, so color transfer will occur with light colored fabrics. This should slow down with a deep soak, but it will always be there. I wear sashiko with denim and dark leather and darker tees.

 

[breakaway01]

For those who have ordered a suit jacket from Luxire, would you say that their work in that area has progressed enough that one can feel comfortable sending them a jacket to copy and be happy with the outcome? Or still more of a work-in-progress along the lines of their shoe offerings? I've been overwhelmingly happy with my shirt and trouser purchases to date, but I'm hesitant to pull the trigger on a jacket based on past forum comments about button holes, etc.

Late reply, I know, but I wasn't able to get to this over the weekend.

I think they are much farther along with their suit jackets than with their shoes. I've ordered two suits so far, and the qualityrice ratio is really good. It'd be hard to find someone else who can make a fully canvassed suit to your desired measurements with hand-padded lapels and extensive handwork in decent fabrics at Luxire’s price point.

That being said, my advice is to expect that you may have to make some changes to your jacket, and have realistic expectations about what Luxire can do at this price point, without being able to measure or fit you in person. You will need to have a very good idea of what you want and be able to communicate it effectively. I would also strongly recommend sending in a jacket to replicate, rather than working solely off measurements. One more caveat is that the turnaround for suit jackets seems to be around 3 months, give-or-take.

For my first suit, I sent in an Attolini jacket with a few adjustments (lengthen sleeves, correct for low right shoulder, and decrease the back of the armholes slightly). I already had a trouser pattern that worked well. In retrospect I should have inquired about the possibility of a test jacket for fit, but I wasn't aware of the option and did not think to ask. The resulting jacket was an excellent replicate in terms of dimensions/fit, but Luxire did not replicate the shoulder construction as I'd requested--it was more structured with light roping (not as much as on Betelgeuse's blue jacket).

For my second suit, I asked that they replicate the Attolini shoulder/chest construction, which required me to send it in again for them to study. Given their success in replicating the fit of my jacket, I felt confident that they could execute additional changes (lowering buttoning point, lengthening jacket). This jacket arrived with shoulder construction much closer to the Attolini’s but the right shoulder was a bit off—based on Beatlegeuse’s pictures, not unlike what happened with one of his jackets with a ‘bump’ at the sleevehead. However, Luxire immediately agreed to correct the issue. At this point, I also took the opportunity to have the back of the jacket pinned by my tailor to take in some extra fabric. I sent in the pinned jacket and emailed them photos of me wearing it to show the shoulder issue. I got the corrected jacket back a few weeks ago. The right shoulder is much better—not 100% correct, but I doubt anyone will notice it unless they are looking specifically for it. As an FYI for those of you thinking of sending in a high-end jacket in, in order to replicate the shoulder/chest construction of my Attolini jacket, Luxire did warn me that they would have to take the lining apart on one side. The repair is noticeable if you look at it closely, but it's not a big deal to me. I might be for some of you.

So far things have gone well enough that I’m about to order another jacket with a couple of additional fit tweaks.

 

[Numbernine]



Indigo is a surface dye, so color transfer will occur with light colored fabrics. This should slow down with a deep soak, but it will always be there. I wear sashiko with denim and dark leather and darker tees.

I have done some indigo dying the following will reduce the transfer
1-soak and rinse
2- iron with a hot iron ( be careful to avoid " shining " the fabric
3- lay out garment and rub with scrap flannel , repeat this several times
4- hang the garment in the sun for a period of time (my personal favorite )
All or a combination these steps will reduce transfers to a varying degrees but be aware that they result In a pre-aging of the material and as such lessen the dramatic effect of contrast
Edit: I have s sashiko chore coat luxire made for me and to be honest I don't belive the indigo was ever formally "set" but since it is such a casual garment I wear it with darker more casual clothes . If I were to order something along the lines of a sports coat I would probably request the material be washed , rInsed and ironed prior to making it but know the nature of sashiko is such that Its formality is more along the lines of say denim or duck canvas