gennaro paone: former head tailor of rubinacci

[Manton]



Apparently some people can dish it out but cannot take it and have to resort to censorship. Shameful, isn't it?

I've taken 10,000X times the **** you or anybody else, with the possible exception of Foo, has had slung at him on this forum. I've also been for nine years and counting, one of the two or three principle subjects of a mass orgy of hate on another forum dedicated almost solely to trashing and libeling me and a few others.

The tired old “censorship” comment is a canard from the Jurassic Era of the Internet. Please familiarize yourself with forum rules, with Fok’s “bar” analogy, and with the initial announcement of DH powers.

And, I dished out nothing in this thread beyond calling you and couple of others gossipy little twats, which you manifestly were behaving like. Whether Foo and Kabbaz did or did not argue about the price of shirts on AAAC in 2006 has nothing whatsoever to do with this thread, Paone, SF or anything else. Which is why I made the warning. And I kept the posts up, initially (some “censorship”). If you little brats had left it alone, the issue would have stayed dead, and the posts would still be there. But you had to keep at it after having been warned.

This is, I repeat, the perfect topic for the FNB forum, which is in fact dedicated to exactly these sorts of conversations and where they hate Foo, Kabbaz and me more than a Holocaust survivor hates Hitler. They will welcome you with open arms. You will be happy there. And the rest of us will be glad to have this sewage out of SF and in the cesspool where it belongs. It’s win-win-win.

Finally, I am not the owner of the bar, nor even an official bartender. I am merely a part time bartender who can police one little corner of the bar—in my view, the most valuable corner. I don’t have the power to eject you (or anyone) from the bar, and even if I did, I wouldn’t. If you have anything useful to say about Paone or his clothes—even to rip them as awful—by all means, say it. And insofar as you do, I make every effort not to hold grudges when an argument is over, if the other guy can also shake hands and let it go. So, I look forward to whatever constructive input you have to offer.




EDITED because emptym appealed to the better angels of my nature.

 

[burghler]

The tailoring looks very nice. And the rollneck Gennaro is wearing looks great as well.

 

[Gus]

I like the look of all of those jackets except the grey DB. The DB doesn't shape to the torso as nicely as the SB jackets.

 

[Victor Elfo]

I also not a fan of the DB's shape, perhaps the photo is to blame. Anyway, in this particular photo, the high waist point combined with the wide skirt undermined the chest shape, which is a look I do not like.

 

[P-K-L]



I also not a fan of the DB's shape, perhaps the photo is to blame. Anyway, in this particular photo, the high waist point combined with the wide skirt undermined the chest shape, which is a look I do not like.

I happen to know the unlucky wearer of that db
this is the best shape one can achieve
imagine humpty-dumpty in a shorter and broader way
standing on two toothpicks
the tailor did a very very very good job, believe me

 

[Manton]

My basic concern so far is that Paone seems to cut a narrow shoulder. Not sure if that's accurate or what, but one of the things I like about Rubinacci is the way they do a little extension so that the shoulders almost always look just a hair wider than the hips.

 

[dieworkwear]



My basic concern so far is that Paone seems to cut a narrow shoulder. Not sure if that's accurate or what, but one of the things I like about Rubinacci is the way they do a little extension so that the shoulders almost always look just a hair wider than the hips.

I've noticed that as well. The chest on a few pieces looks a little less draped too. I wonder if this is something that can be changed by a simple request though. Maybe customers didn't specify anything when ordering.

I really like Gennaro's personal jacket here:

 

[WeakMonday]

My basic concern so far is that Paone seems to cut a narrow shoulder. Not sure if that's accurate or what, but one of the things I like about Rubinacci is the way they do a little extension so that the shoulders almost always look just a hair wider than the hips.

I think shoulder width is one of the most important things to talk about during the initial encounter with any bespoke tailor... if you leave it up to them they could make that decision for you which could be decided based on any number of reasons (age, what you are currently wearing, their mood when cutting... etc).

 

[dfoverdx]

I've noticed that as well. The chest on a few pieces looks a little less draped too. I wonder if this is something that can be changed by a simple request though. Maybe customers didn't specify anything when ordering.

I really like Gennaro's personal jacket here:

I didn't try Paone but based on photos i had two conclusions
- the work is not very neapolitan, it may be soft but very different from from other tailors that i tried. It's not a bad thing but different.
- results are very different; some stuff looks really good and some bad

 

[dieworkwear]



I think shoulder width is one of the most important things to talk about during the initial encounter with any bespoke tailor... if you leave it up to them they could make that decision for you which could be decided based on any number of reasons (age, what you are currently wearing, their mood when cutting... etc).

There's generally a default or a house style. I don't think most customers specify this sort of thing on a first meeting.

 

[Gus]

Gennaro jacket sure looks good in these pics.

 

[WeakMonday]

There's generally a default or a house style. I don't think most customers specify this sort of thing on a first meeting.

Yes I agree there is a default (as in Paone will pick one for you if you don't decide). But clearly Paone can do both because he's done it with extension at Rubinacci... and with less extension as a solo artist. So in my mind it is something that can be and should be discussed (if it is something that bothers you... if not then you can obviously just let the tailor decide).

 

[dieworkwear]



- results are very different; some stuff looks really good and some bad

To be honest, I feel that way about every bespoke tailor. Every tailor has a client who really shows off their work, and then some clients where their tailoring looks mediocre, or sometimes even bad.

I haven't seen anyone look as good in Steed as Slewfoot or Vox; anyone look as good in Rubi as iammatt; anyone look as good in NSM as med_tech; or anyone look as good in Liverano as yfyf.

It might be the fault or the tailor or the customer, but this sort of thing comes with territory. You kind of have to try someone yourself to see if it works for you. If the first commission is OK, you can then slowly refine that silhouette over time.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

I didn't try Paone but based on photos i had two conclusions
- the work is not very neapolitan, it may be soft but very different from from other tailors that i tried. It's not a bad thing but different.
- results are very different; some stuff looks really good and some bad

Yes, that is what i said years ago and got tons of insults.

Also, who says his shoulders are narrow cutted, while are way wide, specially for people who wants the actual Neapolitan cut that is as narrow as possible and gets his English like wide cut?

Sure this and another hyped as Pirozzi do not represent what is mostly know as Neapolitan tailoring. In fact i thought some of the pics posted here were from actual English houses. That stuff is not seen on the streets of Naples and some looked low end fused rtw (no pun intented)

What i do not understand is why this thread with very few low tailoring content but insults between posters and all the rest lasted several months and reached 128 pages, came today after my post on December, and looks yet on December, same things over and over.

 

[dieworkwear]



Yes, that is what i said years ago and got tons of insults.

Also, who says his shoulders are narrow cutted, while are way wide, specially for people who wants the actual Neapolitan cut that is as narrow as possible and gets his English like wide cut?

Sure this and another hyped as Pirozzi do not represent what is mostly know as Neapolitan tailoring. In fact i thought some of the pics posted here were from actual English houses. That stuff is not seen on the streets of Naples and some looked low end fused rtw (no pun intented)

What i do not understand is why this thread with very few low tailoring content but insults between posters and all the rest lasted several months and reached 128 pages.

Kind of tired of these debates about what is a real Neapolitan cut and who is doing it, and who is not. There's a general form to a Neapolitan suit, yes, but saying that some place is doing a "true" Neapolitan cut and another isn't seems so ... I don't know. Either pedantic or pointless. Sort of like people arguing over the definition of anything. The only intellectually interesting when you define something and see what follows from that -- not debating definitions themselves.

There are a lot of tailors in Naples, as you know. Rubinacci, Solito, Panico, the (new) Formosa, NSM, Pirozzi, Ciardi, Sabino, whoever is now cutting for Palermo, etc. There's quite a bit of variation between them. Even the things I've seen from Rubinacci and Panico -- arguably two of the most "rigid" of all these houses -- have varied wildly.

If we're to go with the grumps on this forum and narrow Neapolitan tailoring to the kind of old-school 1950s style, then OK -- Naples has like three tailors. What a great tailoring city.