Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[McKriss]



Thats an old Dormeuil cloth right?

It is a 260gm vintage Dormeuil wool/silk/linen.

 

[Monty L]

These Charvet demi mèsure shirts just arrived a few hours ago. Apologies for the iPhone photo.

As for ongoing, I'm still eagerly awaiting a pair of fawley semi brogue faded mto shoes from Foster&son. Also, the two swatches of blue sea island cotton that came with my charvet order have already won me over and I know it's only a matter of time until I give in. Just hoping I can hold out until the holidays.

 

[Braddock]

Last week I had the first fitting for my green donegal suit at Sartoria Corcos in Florence. I also picked up a pair of light grey flannel trousers at my MBT in Florence and ordered new flannels in cream.

 

[C&A]

Nice topic. Happy to keep this thread going and contribute my latest project. Had a prova for a handwoven W Bill Donegal tweed when I was in Napels last month And I brought this Harrison's flannel to him to get it finally funded. He will be making it into a DB. Will have a prova when the tailor comes to visit Holland this fall.

Old stock Harrisons flannel. Thinking about doing this up as a 6x2. Will be my first db ever. Any thoughts?

And some more winter suitings

Giona?

Yes, he means member Giona Granata. De Tongi will know. T4 and Giona introduced De Tongi on the various fora way back when and a/o brought him to the Benelux many times, way before Trompe le Monde started using them.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

Very nice, everyone. I'll try to get some pictures when I'm back at Cad and the Dandy in a couple of weeks, for what I hope will be a final fitting and collection of two items. The first - a Minnis Fresco SB RAF blue blazer suit - is about as SF-approved as you can get. The second - a peak-lapelled SB odd jacket in Dashing Tweeds Regents Park check - is err... less so!

 

[Leaves]

Great idea for a thread. I have some stuff coming through from Corcos, NSM and Liverano, I'll try and document the process(es). I think this thread could provide good value to a lot of people. Keep up the good work gents!

 

[lordsuperb]



Great idea for a thread. I have some stuff coming through from Corcos, NSM and Liverano, I'll try and document the process(es). I think this thread could provide good value to a lot of people. Keep up the good work gents!

Why so many tailors?

 

[C&A]



...and shoes from Roberto Ugolini:

Curious what the layer of cork (?) on the bottom of the last is for. Don't recall seeing this before. Can you explain?

 

[bengal-stripe]



Curious what the layer of cork (?) on the bottom of the last is for. Don't recall seeing this before. Can you explain?

It might look like cork in the picture, but I think it is the insole in the process of being "blocked" ("crimped").

The underside of a properly made bespoke last should reflect all the "hills and dales" of the sole of your foot (unlike commercial lasts which are more or less flat). The first step would be to get the (so far flat) insole to acquire the shape of the last. The wet insole is tacked to the last, let to dry and has then taken on the "landscape" of the last.bottom. Before the insole has dried it is also left oversize as it will shrink during the drying process.

Here is a picture of an English pair of shoes. The right shoe (left in the picture) has the insole tacked while the left shoe has the insole finished: 'holdfast' cut and holes preprepared (ready for the next step, which would be lasting the upper).



Obviously Ugolini (maybe all Italians) attaches the nails in a different manner than an English-trained shoemaker does, but the end result will be the same: an insole which follows the underside of the last.

 

[goatandtricycle]

Here's my mini contribution, all a bit new to this;
Blue suit with contrasting waiscoat (plan to get trousers in the grey in due course)
The waistcoat is double breasted but peaked (!?) like a single breasted.

Any suggestions on tie colour for the big day welcome,I'm thinking green or purple.

Thoughts comments welcome...

 

[Stugotes]

That last picture (of your back) looks off even for the first/basted fitting somehow

who's the tailor?

 

[goatandtricycle]

That last picture (of your back) looks off even for the first/basted fitting somehow

who's the tailor?

They are actually taken on two different occasions, the top image is the most recent, more work has been done since the bottom two.
I have a low right shoulder. In what way does it look off to you?

 

[Winot]



who's the tailor?

Graham Browne by the look of the shop.

 

[McKriss]

My first commision/attempt at the almighty blazersuit, shaping up nicely @MBT

 

[borbor]

Turned two pieces of unfunded liability in. The conquest is ready to be picked up tomorrow. The anniv tweed I told my tailor to let me know when he lays his shears on it. I'll be doing a pictorial from start to finish for that one.


.