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Here's a side-by-side comparison of the NMWA cut compared to the Tenero cut; same size (52); same season; same fabric (raw silk) in different colors.
Ignore my weird arm in the second one with the navy jacket—was moving it around evidently and my wife didn't get a clean snap.
It's interesting to me that Antonio says the Tenero is a shorter cut—compared to the Tipo anyway. Because it's either slightly longer or about the same as the NMWA cut (which Greg and Antonio said they had lengthened from the original Lorenzo model).
I love both cuts. On me, I feel the Tenero is a bit more flattering. But both are awesome. The NMWA is a bit tighter in the blades/upper back than the Tenero, but the Tenero is a bit trimmer in almost every other respect (sleeves, shoulders, chest, etc.).
for @Monkeyface
Sorry, still think this one emphasises your hips, due to the short length. The NMWA cut looks much better on you.
No need to apologize, I'm happy with it. But I'm also interested in trying various other cuts as Antonio continues to refine his aesthetic.
Have you tried the Tipo? I quite like that one. I believe it's a bit longer than the Tenero.
Have you tried the Tipo? I quite like that one. I believe it's a bit longer than the Tenero.
Most Neapolitan shirtmakers I know deliberately cut shoulders their patterns with a more narrower point to point and a larger sleeve head so that your shoulder sits comfortably inside the sleevehead. Do you have any Ingress shirts? He does this as well.
My worry is that you won't notice the shoulders being more narrow but will notice the roomier body.