Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Crispyj]

Crispyj

You people...

Q

Future Q


Kotaro with Japanese fabric


Ugolini


Belts from Saic


Going to ex F Caraceni's cutter tomorrow.

 

[jonathanS]

I’m far from a historian on Ivy, JFK or his style but I thought in addition to Brooks he used a British tailor with an American outpost and the cut was more accommodating to his back brace than the super slim Ivy silhouette. There was also something about firing the tailor for taking credit for the clothes in an interview maybe?

Edit: I was curious so I did a quick google. The Rake says Sam Harris made his English suits and Chipp made his American suits. https://therake.com/stories/setting-the-president

You are correct, I got mixed up, as we talked about off styleforum, it was Ted Kennedy who had his suits cut in Rome.

Much like agnelli, I’d be surprised if we knew all of kennedy’s tailors. I have it on good authority that agnelli had unknown tailors in Torino that he frequented (not necessarily the big names like a. Caraceni or huntsman).

 

[clee1982]

I remember AAAC had a whole thread of story about Chipp (told by the owner himself), it was super entertaining to read.

Speaking of which I remember going to Chipp for hand sewn button hole (they were cheapest among all hand sewen), and felt super meh about it, bought one of their grenadine tie, all in all just couldn’t imagine what they once were

 

[comrade]

I remember AAAC had a whole thread of story about Chipp (told by the owner himself), it was super entertaining to read.

Speaking of which I remember going to Chipp for hand sewn button hole (they were cheapest among all hand sewen), and felt super meh about it, bought one of their grenadine tie, all in all just couldn’t imagine what they once were

When I shopped there in the 80s and 90s before I moved to CA and no longer got
to NYC often, I got an alternative model that they offered with a nipped waist, two
buttons and often side vents but with a very natural Ivy ( or) Neapolitan shoulder.
Paul Stuart also had a similar model. It was basically a hybrid Savile Row/ Ivy style.
Mine were usually MTM. As I said earlier, this model suited my build- I have very
broad shoulders and a big chest. It the time I ran 20-30 miles/week but was never
slim. Also for someone who's taste is far beyond his wallet, Chipp had fabrics, especially tweeds, that I never saw any where else. Another place that was even
further above my pay grade was the legendary Dunhill tailors, where I bought one
summer suit. They were probably to most prominent bespoke house in NYC.

The legend of Dunhill Tailors

www.askandyaboutclothes.com

Permanent Style

Dunhill Tailors: The brothers that dressed the party of the century

www.permanentstyle.com

 

[Despos]

Was Dunhill run or owned by two brothers?

Can’t remember their names

 

[Egdon Heath]

Was Dunhill run or owned by two brothers?

Can’t remember their names

Bobby Dun and Jake Hill

 

[comrade]

Was Dunhill run or owned by two brothers?

Can’t remember their names

The Block Brothers, Norman, and Leon. Mentioned in Simon Crompton's article.

 

[jonathanS]

Was Dunhill run or owned by two brothers?

Can’t remember their names

Interesting, one of my friends has a dinner jacket made by dunhill bespoke. It’s from his father in law. It’s a velvet green smoking jacket. My friend & his wife were both native New Yorkers, and went to private or boarding school; you can make relevant assumptions about the original bespeaker.

It appears well made for what it’s worth. I just assumed it was from when dunhill in London made bespoke jackets. But maybe it’s from New York.

 

[Despos]

The Block Brothers, Norman, and Leon. Mentioned in Simon Crompton's article.

This is who I remember. Didn’t see or read Simon’s article.
Think there were two Dunhill stores in NYC.
Dunhill and Dunhill tailors, is that correct?

read the article, know the story now

 

[Roger Kearey]

Interesting, one of my friends has a dinner jacket made by dunhill bespoke. It’s from his father in law. It’s a velvet green smoking jacket. My friend & his wife were both native New Yorkers, and went to private or boarding school; you can make relevant assumptions about the original bespeaker.

It appears well made for what it’s worth. I just assumed it was from when dunhill in London made bespoke jackets. But maybe it’s from New York.

Dunhill still have a bespoke dept.

 

[jonathanS]

Dunhill still have a bespoke dept.

I don’t know. I’ll have to investigate next time I see him. I don’t think he’d like me taking a photo of the label though.

 

[comrade]

Dunhill London as in pipes, tobacco, and later clothing bought out the
New York bespoke, completly separate, Dunhill Tailors in 1985. For a time
the combined firm offered Dunhill Tailors bespoke and MTM at the NYC store.
That ended within a few years. What Dunhill still sells has little in common
with the New York firm run by the Block brothers.


Dunhill Holdings, the parent company of Alfred Dunhill, has agreed to buy the business of Dunhill Tailors for $3.25 million in cash and will continue that 62-year-old business ''for the immediate future.Sep 1, 1985 ( Google)

 

[jonathanS]

Dunhill London as in pipes, tobacco, and later clothing bought out the
New York bespoke, completly separate, Dunhill Tailors in 1985. For a time
the combined firm offered Dunhill Tailors bespoke and MTM at the NYC store.
That ended within a few years. What Dunhill still sells has little in common
with the New York firm run by the Block brothers.


Dunhill Holdings, the parent company of Alfred Dunhill, has agreed to buy the business of Dunhill Tailors for $3.25 million in cash and will continue that 62-year-old business ''for the immediate future.Sep 1, 1985 ( Google)

Dunhill still have a bespoke dept.

Roger is a bespoke tailor in London. I’ll defer to him on this.

 

[Roger Kearey]

Roger is a bespoke tailor in London. I’ll defer to him on this.

All I know is that they have a long established full bespoke offering from their London House. I have no idea regarding the history. You never see any press but they are there.

 

[othertravel]

All I know is that they have a long established full bespoke offering from their London House. I have no idea regarding the history. You never see any press but they are there.

Isn’t it with the tailor at Norton & Sons?