Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[mktitsworth]

Pictures of the 2kGBP/m 100% Vicuna:

 

[jonathanS]

Pictures of the 2kGBP/m 100% Vicuna:
View attachment 2284341
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The real question is how much did the square cost?

 

[Texasmade]

The real question is how much did the square cost?

Forreal! That sample book probably costs $100's or $1000's.

 

[hitsuji]

Has anyone tried Fox Brothers Cavalry twill? I know they have a variance of weights. Their latest fox drop ones were a little light.. like 300g or so but I’ve seen they go to heavier on their older drops

I called them and it seems they still have a bit more in what they call Hazel. Will be getting a sample

 

[multiccy-csa]

Harrison’s Universal I have that exact cloth awaiting a fitting and another in a non-herringbone that I quite enjoy. Solid hand but the herringbone may be a bit muted in real life given what you’ve said you’re looking for. Old picture from my stash before I sent it off. View attachment 2281701
View attachment 2281703
I’d throw a wildcard into your mix and suggest Standeven Heritage Twist. A phenomenal bunch and one of my favorites. A fantastic, heavy old school cloth. Take a look at the Arthur’s seat for something with a little more visual interest than the standard herringbone.

Re: @tim_horton suggestion of Botany - have that as well and would flag that it’s also a very solid cloth and will notably have a significantly softer hand compared to Heritage Twist or Universal if that’s of concern to you. It’s also a hair lighter.

In terms of weight and hand from crisp to softer having all three IMO. Universal -> Heritage Twist -> Botany

Thank you again for this. I think I'm settling on the Standeven, as it exhibits something else I'm looking for in the cloth that i didn't mention initially: a high contrast between the 'up' and 'down' sections of the herringbone when looked at from certain angles. Some exhibit this contrast, which gives the cloth 'depth' (e.g. those in the photo below), but others (e.g. Fox) don't, and seem 'flat'. I want to avoid sheen though!

Forgive me, i don't have the technical nomenclature here, what is this 'contrast when looked at from cetain angles' called, and why do some cloths show it and others not?

Interestingly my tailor rated the Standeven over the Dugdale, which he thought was of poorer quality.

 

[L.deJong]

Thank you again for this. I think I'm settling on the Standeven, as it exhibits something else I'm looking for in the cloth that i didn't mention initially: a high contrast between the 'up' and 'down' sections of the herringbone when looked at from certain angles. Some exhibit this contrast, which gives the cloth 'depth' (e.g. those in the photo below), but others (e.g. Fox) don't, and seem 'flat'. I want to avoid sheen though!

Forgive me, i don't have the technical nomenclature here, what is this 'contrast when looked at from cetain angles' called, and why do some cloths show it and others not?

Interestingly my tailor rated the Standeven over the Dugdale, which he thought was of poorer quality.
View attachment 2284501

Interesting, which dugdale bunch was he talking about? And why did he rate it higher?
Heritage Twist is amazing cloth btw, I have a suit in the making and will add another one next year, cannot decide with cloth I will take then.

 

[multiccy-csa]

Interesting, which dugdale bunch was he talking about? And why did he rate it higher?
Heritage Twist is amazing cloth btw, I have a suit in the making and will add another one next year, cannot decide with cloth I will take then.

Town & Country was the bunch, but he may have been speaking more generally. He found it just didn't make up as well as the Standeven or some others. I didn't get a particularly erudite explanation!

 

[JHWilliams]

Town & Country was the bunch, but he may have been speaking more generally. He found it just didn't make up as well as the Standeven or some others. I didn't get a particularly erudite explanation!

English & Town Classics is the bunch that most coatmakers love working with. It is tightly woven with excellent drape.

 

[corpseposeur]

English & Town Classics is the bunch that most coatmakers love working with. It is tightly woven with excellent drape.

My tailor loves the Dugdale's T&C stuff as well. I have this navy suit made up in it that drapes exceedingly well. It might not be super luxurious but I was more interested in something sturdy and long lasting.

 

[JHWilliams]

My tailor loves the Dugdale's T&C stuff as well. I have this navy suit made up in it that drapes exceedingly well. It might not be super luxurious but I was more interested in something sturdy

My tailor loves the Dugdale's T&C stuff as well. I have this navy suit made up in it that drapes exceedingly well. It might not be super luxurious but I was more interested in something sturdy and long lasting.

My tailor loves the Dugdale's T&C stuff as well. I have this navy suit made up in it that drapes exceedingly well. It might not be super luxurious but I was more interested in something sturdy and long lasting.

Dugdale is honest cloth that bespoke tailors love to work with.

English & Town Classics is my favorite of all the bunches.

If you want something a bit mire luxurious and lighter in weight, the Needle Ready Bunch is always fantastic.

Rob Charnock knows his stuff.

 

[hitsuji]

Dugdale is honest cloth that bespoke tailors love to work with.

English & Town Classics is my favorite of all the bunches.

If you want something a bit mire luxurious and lighter in weight, the Needle Ready Bunch is always fantastic.

Rob Charnock knows his stuff.

Exactly the word I’d describe their cloth. I don’t think you can exactly go wrong with them. They’re a little cheaper compared to Standeven, Fox and co. but I wouldn’t say you’re sacrificing quality at all. I’d prefer their invincible bunch over their town classics and consider the fearnought bunch if you want some old school heavy cloth

+1 for standeven heritage twist. Their 14oz is a perfect cloth for a bespoke commission. Botany is also a solid bunch that you can never go wrong with.

I’ve got a DB in universal worsted flannel that is being made up. Looks absolutely solid.

 

[multiccy-csa]

Exactly the word I’d describe their cloth. I don’t think you can exactly go wrong with them. They’re a little cheaper compared to Standeven, Fox and co. but I wouldn’t say you’re sacrificing quality at all. I’d prefer their invincible bunch over their town classics and consider the fearnought bunch if you want some old school heavy cloth

+1 for standeven heritage twist. Their 14oz is a perfect cloth for a bespoke commission. Botany is also a solid bunch that you can never go wrong with.

I’ve got a DB in universal worsted flannel that is being made up. Looks absolutely solid.

Thank you all. I had a look at Heritage Twist today, and it's lovely, but just a little too 'tweedy' for the City. I like the fuzziness, but it's not quite sharp enough.
So given my desire for the 'contrast'/depth, i think it's between:

Harrison's Oyster (13oz)

And Standeven's British Classic (12oz), which i don't think has been mentioned yet.


I'm erring towards the latter, and would really like to get my order in today!
Could members let me know their thoughts on these two pls?
Thank you vm indeed.

 

[kylepw]

Thank you all. I had a look at Heritage Twist today, and it's lovely, but just a little too 'tweedy' for the City. I like the fuzziness, but it's not quite sharp enough.
So given my desire for the 'contrast'/depth, i think it's between:

Harrison's Oyster (13oz)
View attachment 2285013
And Standeven's British Classic (12oz), which i don't think has been mentioned yet.
View attachment 2285015

I'm erring towards the latter, and would really like to get my order in today!
Could members let me know their thoughts on these two pls?
Thank you vm indeed.

Standeven +1

 

[hitsuji]

Thank you all. I had a look at Heritage Twist today, and it's lovely, but just a little too 'tweedy' for the City. I like the fuzziness, but it's not quite sharp enough.
So given my desire for the 'contrast'/depth, i think it's between:

Harrison's Oyster (13oz)
View attachment 2285013
And Standeven's British Classic (12oz), which i don't think has been mentioned yet.
View attachment 2285015

I'm erring towards the latter, and would really like to get my order in today!
Could members let me know their thoughts on these two pls?
Thank you vm indeed.

They’re both quite similar in terms of handfeel. I find standevens colours pop out a little more. If you are finding it hard to tie break try to ask ur tailors opinion

 

[JHWilliams]

Thank you all. I had a look at Heritage Twist today, and it's lovely, but just a little too 'tweedy' for the City. I like the fuzziness, but it's not quite sharp enough.
So given my desire for the 'contrast'/depth, i think it's between:

Harrison's Oyster (13oz)
View attachment 2285013
And Standeven's British Classic (12oz), which i don't think has been mentioned yet.
View attachment 2285015

I'm erring towards the latter, and would really like to get my order in today!
Could members let me know their thoughts on these two pls?
Thank you vm indeed.

You can’t go wrong with either option.

I have one suit from Heritage Twist. Quite scratchy and drape is marginal.