Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[RogerC]



120 GBP? Did they just go up from 100 GBP? That's what I recall from the last round.

the 20 difference is VAT, which you can get out of, but I can't

 

[Slewfoot]



the 20 difference is VAT, which you can get out of, but I can't

Ahhh yes. But I guess we do pay for shipping so it almost balances out anyway when I think about it!

 

[Grammaton Cleric]



Yes at that price, I can buy 2 coats and wear them on top of one another to equal the 1kg weight

+1

 

[Frankie22]

Can anyone steer me in the right direction in regard to the following:

1.) Best weight wool for a 3 season navy sportcoat. Super 120's? 10oz? I want another go to workhorse.
2.) Best weight for a Prince Of Wales fall/winter DB. Does thread count matter here?

There is a local shop here that I am planning to use for my first MTM commission to be executed by Samuelsohn based on the fact their Globe and Gable coats fit about 90% correctly OTR. I considered buying off the rack and doing alterations (as I have done on my current Sammys jackets) but I want a wider lapel and to improve the fit of the chest & sleeves.

 

[forex]

Can you actually change the size of the lapel with MTM? I remember talking to Samuelsohn folks and they said that it was not possible..

 

[Frankie22]

Can you actually change the size of the lapel with MTM? I remember talking to Samuelsohn folks and they said that it was not possible..

Yes, I believe it is only a 40.00 charge. That is what I was told by a trusted friend who carries their brand exclusively @ his shop. I believe he consulted with his Sammy rep on the subject prior to letting me know.

 

[RogerC]



Can anyone steer me in the right direction in regard to the following:

1.) Best weight wool for a 3 season navy sportcoat. Super 120's? 10oz?  I want another go to workhorse.
2.) Best weight for a Prince Of Wales fall/winter DB. Does thread count matter here?

There is a local shop here that I am planning to use for my first MTM commission to be executed by Samuelsohn based on the fact their Globe and Gable coats fit about 90% correctly OTR.  I considered buying off the rack and doing alterations (as I have done on my current Sammys jackets) but I want a wider lapel and to improve the fit of the chest & sleeves.

- I try to stay away from super numbers. Some of the best books don't have super numbers, and the fabric will be more durable. If the coat is going to be a workhorse, that might be worth considering. Also: where do you live? Texas 10 months isn't Vermont 10 months. For a temperate climate, I'd be looking at 12oz at least, as heavier wool drapes better and therefore looks better.

- For the winter, I'd consider flannel. A flannel PoW DB is a timeless classic, and Fox does a great PoW with a blue and red overcheck.

 

[Renton]



Can you actually change the size of the lapel with MTM? I remember talking to Samuelsohn folks and they said that it was not possible..

I had a sportcoat made this spring with larger lapels. It took Samuelsohn two tries to get the details right, but I eventually got what I asked for.

 

[Renault78law]



- I try to stay away from super numbers. Some of the best books don't have super numbers, and the fabric will be more durable. If the coat is going to be a workhorse, that might be worth considering. Also: where do you live? Texas 10 months isn't Vermont 10 months. For a temperate climate, I'd be looking at 12oz at least, as heavier wool drapes better and therefore looks better.
- For the winter, I'd consider flannel. A flannel PoW DB is a timeless classic, and Fox does a great PoW with a blue and red overcheck.

Yeah, I'd say 11-12 oz would be most versatile for the former.

 

[Frankie22]

- I try to stay away from super numbers. Some of the best books don't have super numbers, and the fabric will be more durable. If the coat is going to be a workhorse, that might be worth considering. Also: where do you live? Texas 10 months isn't Vermont 10 months. For a temperate climate, I'd be looking at 12oz at least, as heavier wool drapes better and therefore looks better.
- For the winter, I'd consider flannel. A flannel PoW DB is a timeless classic, and Fox does a great PoW with a blue and red overcheck.

Thanks for the tips. I'm in Boston soon to be NYC, so perhaps a 12 oz would in fact work? I want something tough but still refined enough to wear as an odd jacket with proper trousers @ more casual meetings and such. I could go flannel POW, or go with a three season blend on the DB also. I am still building my wardrobe. Thoughts on something in a three season weight?

I had a sportcoat made this spring with larger lapels. It took Samuelsohn two tries to get the details right, but I eventually got what I asked for.

Nice. Would you mind pming me a photo of it? I will likely start with the globe as a base. Any tips that would maximize my chances of things working out on the first try?

Yeah, I'd say 11-12 oz would be most versatile for the former.

Ah ok. So main point, weight and drape rules of thread count. I figured a super 100 might work.

 

[Slewfoot]

I don't think I've ever bought a fabric base on Super count. Not because I'm against it, but just that the more unique fabrics out there don't seem to follow that rule.

 

[Despos]



Ah ok. So main point, weight and drape rules of thread count. I figured a super 100 might work.

100's is not thread count but references the diameter of the yarns used to weave the cloth. It is related to the micron count measurement of the size of the threads.

Quality supers are just as durable as any other cloth but there are many variables to make a cloth of quality. Not all cloths are created equal.

 

[Frankie22]

I don't think I've ever bought a fabric base on Super count. Not because I'm against it, but just that the more unique fabrics out there don't seem to follow that rule.

Any particular wool you would endorse for the navy coat I am looking to do?

100's is not thread count but references the diameter of the yarns used to weave the cloth. It is related to the micron count measurement of the size of the threads.
Quality supers are just as durable as any other cloth but there are many variables to make a cloth of quality. Not all cloths are created equal.

Got it. Any tips you might be able to offer based on my points listed above? Looking for a 11-12oz navy work horse.

 

[gdl203]

You should take a look at the H.Lesser 13 oz and 11/12 oz books. My HL 13 oz are what I would call "workhorse" suit fabrics

 

[Frankie22]

You should take a look at the H.Lesser 13 oz and 11/12 oz books. My HL 13 oz are what I would call "workhorse" suit fabrics

Thank you!