The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[chocomallo]

Brutal, Choc.

Just glad to have you back. Only other poster who merits a similar joy upon return would be ThriftVader.

 

[pmeis]

Trying out some leather while enjoying the cooler weather in Copenhagen for the week.

 

[acconrad]

Any PP nerds here:

For the 5296G-001 (sector dial white gold calatrava) I've heard there was a year where they started doing full white gold instead of rhodium plating. What years/signs do you need to look for to ensure you don't have a rhodium-plated case?

 

[9thsymph]

Bud, just ask 9thsimp. This is a repeat of his watch collecting journey. He would never wear that shirt, though.

I actually started with gold dress watch...

 

[acconrad]

Am I the only one that sees that in the league of the 70s integrated-style watches like RO, Nautilus, Tonda, Ingenieur... the actual sleeper is the LF Sport Auto?

It's cheaper on the grey market than most RO, all Nautilus, and most Aquatnauts? Seems like a great value given LF's quality.

 

[Dino944]

What should be the third in the collection? Have below + a Speedy.

White Santos in medium is contender but doubting whether it’s too much overlap in use cases with DJ. Always desired a Sub but again overlap with Speedy as they are both black dial sport watches. Exp 2 polar is also of interest as the GMT function is of actual use to me. Other suggestions?

View attachment 2246809

Well unless you go with a very complicated piece, there is almost always going to be some overlap in your choices. The Santos, is a great watch. There is definitely some overlap with a DJ, however, it adds a completely different shape to your collection, and if you went with the blue, green, or brown dial (most least favorite of the choices), it would add some color to your collection too. I've had a large blue dial Santos for 5 years, it's extremely comfortable (the case back and lugs are curved), and it knock on wood it's been trouble free. Also, in my experience, when it comes to service Cartier's turn around time is faster than with other brands and the cost for servicing non-complicated watches is significantly less than other manufacturers. The last watch that went in for service was $500 they warranty the work for 2 years. At least in the past I've had the watch back from them in 4 to 6 weeks. One watch was ready to be picked up in 3 weeks.

The Sub is a great watch. It's a classic, and their diver extension Glidelock is brilliant! It's far better than the little extension link in most of their watches. I wish they would incorporate the Glidelock into the clasps of all of their watches, even the non diving models. I also like the current 41 mm case with tapered lugs more than the last generation with maxi case. It's got far greater water resistance than your Speedy. However, would you wear it to go diving or snorkeling? If not the added water resistance is nice in theory, but not necessary.

I like Explorer IIs. They have all the qualities we expect from a Rolex, but fly a bit more under the radar than a Sub or GMT, as they have a brushed steel bezel that angles downward rather than colorful bezel. It's a bit less recognizable to novice watch people, compared to Subs and GMTs. So that may be a good thing for you? You mentioned having a use for a GMT watch...so that fuction may help justify this choice over others and it adds a function that none of your other watches have.

 

[Dino944]

Am I the only one that sees that in the league of the 70s integrated-style watches like RO, Nautilus, Tonda, Ingenieur... the actual sleeper is the LF Sport Auto?

It's cheaper on the grey market than most RO, all Nautilus, and most Aquatnauts? Seems like a great value given LF's quality.

I'm not sure I see it as a sleeper. Interest in and respect for the brand dropped off quite a bit once people discovered they don't actually make their entire movements in house. My friend considered a new one maybe a year or two ago, but I think the dealer wanted crazy money for a new one or my friend would have to buy a bunch of sh*t he didn't want to get one. So that killed his interest in one, and he got on the list for a AP 16202 Jumbo. I'm not sure if it is still like that to get a new LF. It's still a pricey watch even used, and the design seems to be a love it or hate it look. It's not a piece from the 70s, but in my opinion it looks more dated and 1970-ish than a RO, Nautilus, or Ingenieur. I think it's an interesting design, but I'm not sure it's timeless enough for a buyer not to get tired of it rather quickly. The bracelet although probably nicer in terms of quality, looks like they took it off an old Breitling Colt Superocean. If you aren't someone who is really into movements, you can readily get a current IWC Ingenieur for a lot less money and no wait. I also think the Ingenieur is a better looking watch, and one that will age better in terms of design.

 

[Clouseau]

Well unless you go with a very complicated piece, there is almost always going to be some overlap in your choices. The Santos, is a great watch. There is definitely some overlap with a DJ, however, it adds a completely different shape to your collection, and if you went with the blue, green, or brown dial (most least favorite of the choices), it would add some color to your collection too. I've had a large blue dial Santos for 5 years, it's extremely comfortable (the case back and lugs are curved), and it knock on wood it's been trouble free. Also, in my experience, when it comes to service Cartier's turn around time is faster than with other brands and the cost for servicing non-complicated watches is significantly less than other manufacturers. The last watch that went in for service was $500 they warranty the work for 2 years. At least in the past I've had the watch back from them in 4 to 6 weeks. One watch was ready to be picked up in 3 weeks.

The Sub is a great watch. It's a classic, and their diver extension Glidelock is brilliant! It's far better than the little extension link in most of their watches. I wish they would incorporate the Glidelock into the clasps of all of their watches, even the non diving models. I also like the current 41 mm case with tapered lugs more than the last generation with maxi case. It's got far greater water resistance than your Speedy. However, would you wear it to go diving or snorkeling? If not the added water resistance is nice in theory, but not necessary.

I like Explorer IIs. They have all the qualities we expect from a Rolex, but fly a bit more under the radar than a Sub or GMT, as they have a brushed steel bezel that angles downward rather than colorful bezel. It's a bit less recognizable to novice watch people, compared to Subs and GMTs. So that may be a good thing for you? You mentioned having a use for a GMT watch...so that fuction may help justify this choice over others and it adds a function that none of your other watches have.

There is one model you forgot.

 

[symphvaria]

I'm not sure I see it as a sleeper. Interest in and respect for the brand dropped off quite a bit once people discovered they don't actually make their entire movements in house. My friend considered a new one maybe a year or two ago, but I think the dealer wanted crazy money for a new one or my friend would have to buy a bunch of sh*t he didn't want to get one. So that killed his interest in one, and he got on the list for a AP 16202 Jumbo. I'm not sure if it is still like that to get a new LF. It's still a pricey watch even used, and the design seems to be a love it or hate it look. It's not a piece from the 70s, but in my opinion it looks more dated and 1970-ish than a RO, Nautilus, or Ingenieur. I think it's an interesting design, but I'm not sure it's timeless enough for a buyer not to get tired of it rather quickly. The bracelet although probably nicer in terms of quality, looks like they took it off an old Breitling Colt Superocean. If you aren't someone who is really into movements, you can readily get a current IWC Ingenieur for a lot less money and no wait. I also think the Ingenieur is a better looking watch, and one that will age better in terms of design.

I still strongly believe that the current Ingenieur was a bad update and will look firmly dated to the 2020s in a decade or two.

 

[patrick_b]

Bravo @Clouseau, pure genius!!

This really should be the TWAT mascot/header.

 

[Texasmade]

Bravo @Clouseau, pure genius!!

View attachment 2246973

This really should be the TWAT mascot/header.

Only true TWAT members will know...

 

[Dino944]

I still strongly believe that the current Ingenieur was a bad update and will look firmly dated to the 2020s in a decade or two.

While I prefer the original Jumbo SL, however I have tried on the new model. I think it's far nicer in person than in photos. After having spent some time with one my issues with it are: I wish they continued with the asymmetric circles in the bezel, which were functional for the tool to open the watch and service it; and the price considering the movement is in the Pilot watch which is thousands less.

It's not quite the same as the original, but most modern versions of watches from the 70's (or earlier) have changed slightly, be it the RO (dial color, date wheel, font and bracelet thickness, movement, and case construction), Nautilus (ears are larger, dial color, movement, case construction), the Submariner, GMT, Santos, Pasha, Laureato, etc. I think the LF Sport while interesting, looks dated to a period in which it was never made.

I think IWC missed the mark in a few areas, but it will be interesting to see how it is viewed years from now.

 

[Omega Male]

I'm not sure I see it as a sleeper. Interest in and respect for the brand dropped off quite a bit once people discovered they don't actually make their entire movements in house. My friend considered a new one maybe a year or two ago, but I think the dealer wanted crazy money for a new one or my friend would have to buy a bunch of sh*t he didn't want to get one. So that killed his interest in one, and he got on the list for a AP 16202 Jumbo. I'm not sure if it is still like that to get a new LF. It's still a pricey watch even used, and the design seems to be a love it or hate it look. It's not a piece from the 70s, but in my opinion it looks more dated and 1970-ish than a RO, Nautilus, or Ingenieur. I think it's an interesting design, but I'm not sure it's timeless enough for a buyer not to get tired of it rather quickly. The bracelet although probably nicer in terms of quality, looks like they took it off an old Breitling Colt Superocean. If you aren't someone who is really into movements, you can readily get a current IWC Ingenieur for a lot less money and no wait. I also think the Ingenieur is a better looking watch, and one that will age better in terms of design.

Generally like LF, but I agree on the Sport Auto. There are too many design details that are just … clumsy.

 

[Ebitdaddy]

Generally like LF, but I agree on the Sport Auto. There are too many design details that are just … clumsy.

It’s super fugly

 

[symphvaria]

While I prefer the original Jumbo SL, however I have tried on the new model. I think it's far nicer in person than in photos. After having spent some time with one my issues with it are: I wish they continued with the asymmetric circles in the bezel, which were functional for the tool to open the watch and service it; and the price considering the movement is in the Pilot watch which is thousands less.

It's not quite the same as the original, but most modern versions of watches from the 70's (or earlier) have changed slightly, be it the RO (dial color, date wheel, font and bracelet thickness, movement, and case construction), Nautilus (ears are larger, dial color, movement, case construction), the Submariner, GMT, Santos, Pasha, Laureato, etc. I think the LF Sport while interesting, looks dated to a period in which it was never made.

I think IWC missed the mark in a few areas, but it will be interesting to see how it is viewed years from now.

I don't doubt the finishing and feel in hand is nice, my problem fundamentally stems to their decision to change it from Genta's most circular design (particularly with the curved center bracelet links) to a bland post-millenium sports watch, especially with those totally uncalled for crown guards. I don't think this is remotely comparable to the changes made to the Royal Oak or Nautilus, and I don't like the modern Nautilus either.