The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[edmorel]

Nobody ever really leaves styleforum.

Mourn no more, Scuppers is back… I jest re: mourning…

@Clouseau

Yes, the Cezanne existed. Yes it has been stolen. Find it hilarious this was questioned when i posted a photo of a Journe in front of a Alexi Jawlensky worth a lot more than the Cezanne.

As a qualifier; avid art collector that I am, vast majority has been inherited; this includes many artists most are familiar with.

My favourites are a Picabia, worth next to nothing and Feininger worth a lot more.

 

[pmeis]

Am I the only one that sees that in the league of the 70s integrated-style watches like RO, Nautilus, Tonda, Ingenieur... the actual sleeper is the LF Sport Auto?

It's cheaper on the grey market than most RO, all Nautilus, and most Aquatnauts? Seems like a great value given LF's quality.

I don't dislike this as much as others here, but I think if somebody wanted a vaguely squarish, "different" than usual integrated bracelet watch, the Moser Streamliner is a more successful design. The perpetual version is generally available for the same price or less than this Sport Auto, though I guess the movement lacks some of the pizzazz of LF.

 

[9thsymph]

Scuppers is back? I’m shocked! Looking forward to his next “I was robbed again…” story!

 

[patrick_b]

There is one model you forgot.

Added a bit of realism:

Enhance...Enhance...Enhance:

 

[Dino944]

I don't doubt the finishing and feel in hand is nice, my problem fundamentally stems to their decision to change it from Genta's most circular design (particularly with the curved center bracelet links) to a bland post-millenium sports watch, especially with those totally uncalled for crown guards. I don't think this is remotely comparable to the changes made to the Royal Oak or Nautilus, and I don't like the modern Nautilus either.

While I agree with you and prefer the original Jumbo SL's softer design features. However, Ingenuierws haven't had those features in decades. I believe the late 80s when most companies offered shrunken versions of their originals...AP released several 36mm ROs (although the Jumbo was also available), PP released the 36mm Nautilus, and IWC came out with ref 3521, a 34.5mm Ingenieur. That version had less rounded lines, flatter H shaped bracelet links, and center links that were more rectangular.

Then in the early 2000s we got ref 322701. Which grew in size, but went to much sharper bracelet links and transition piece between the case and bracelet.

Then we got ref 3239 - which grew shoulders.

What IWC gave us is a mix of these various evolutions, rather than a modern version that is faithful to the original Jumbo SL. I like the original the most. There were always design choices that kept me from buying the later pieces. Perhaps the original SL just further highlights the genius of Genta's designs. Others can borrow elements from it, but nothing truly lives up to the original.

 

[symphvaria]

While I agree with you and prefer the original Jumbo SL's softer design features. However, Ingenuierws haven't had those features in decades. I believe the late 80s when most companies offered shrunken versions of their originals...AP released several 36mm ROs (although the Jumbo was also available), PP released the 36mm Nautilus, and IWC came out with ref 3521, a 34.5mm Ingenieur. That version had less rounded lines, flatter H shaped bracelet links, and center links that were more rectangular.

Then in the early 2000s we got ref 322701. Which grew in size, but went to much sharper bracelet links and transition piece between the case and bracelet.

Then we got ref 3239 - which grew shoulders.

What IWC gave us is a mix of these various evolutions, rather than a modern version that is faithful to the original Jumbo SL. I like the original the most. There were always design choices that kept me from buying the later pieces. Perhaps the original SL just further highlights the genius of Genta's designs. Others can borrow elements from it, but nothing truly lives up to the original.

This basically illustrates why the new Ingenieur was such a disappointment to me. The design has been through innumerable changes through the decades, and very arguably for the worse. This was the perfect chance to revive the original design, true to form, under the banner of the Genta sports watch revival movement, and instead IWC thought they were smarter than Genta and released a strange amalgamation of vintage and modern Ingenieurs. The Ingenieur is possibly the only Genta watch that’s still in production without a faithful modern iteration; even the ugly as balls Locomotive got a proper reissue under Credor.

 

[9thsymph]

PGLB, but also: No one ever really owns a Cezanne. Most merely pay a premium to look over it until a thief takes on ownership duties....

 

[9thsymph]

Hot take: IWC Ingenieurs - old/new - are all unattractive!

 

[LeeR]

Any PP nerds here:

For the 5296G-001 (sector dial white gold calatrava) I've heard there was a year where they started doing full white gold instead of rhodium plating. What years/signs do you need to look for to ensure you don't have a rhodium-plated case?

As far as I know, all white gold is plated. It has to be doesn’t it, or it’s not white.

 

[symphvaria]

As far as I know, all white gold is plated. It has to be doesn’t it, or it’s not white.

Not true. White gold without rhodium plating is still recognizably white, just not as brilliantly white, more eggshell.

 

[Purplelabel]

I get it now.

 

[chocomallo]

I get it now.

View attachment 2247379 View attachment 2247381

 

[Purplelabel]

View attachment 2247385

First time.

 

[chocomallo]

Added a bit of realism:

View attachment 2247197

Enhance...Enhance...Enhance:

View attachment 2247199

First, the watch is upside down like in a poorly made advertisement. Second, this image screams GMT. The colors, rotate the picture it still works, the nipple as homage to the old nipple dial, etc.

 

[pmeis]

Worst part of the new Ingenieurs is that like 90% of Richemont's current watch portfolio, its at least 30% more expensive than it should be.