The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

[MrSpade]

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i tried to fit on their ready to wear but I returned the shoes back and now I am waiting for their MTM order. What’s your usual U.K. size ?

Uk 9 / 43 Eur. VASS claims that you have to size down on a P last. I did measure my foot, send a picture, reply was 43 is fine but your instep fits 44… strange.

 

[MrSpade]

I thought also that they seems a little bulky when I received them and look them in person , the P last wasn’t bulky at all.

What’s your regular size and what size did you choose? Did you get loafers?

 

[konstantis]

What’s your regular size and what size did you choose? Did you get loafers?

I got the norvegegers. I am U.K. 9 and tried 43 in Vass. They were really unwearable.

 

[MacGuffen]

What sole would you guys go for in a P2-lasted 3-eyelet chukka? HAF w/topy, double leather w/topy or double Dainite?
Would the HAF look out of place on suede chukkas?

 

[Son Of Saphir]

Vass derby in museum calf on the P2.
A great shoe.

 

[Son Of Saphir]

What sole would you guys go for in a P2-lasted 3-eyelet chukka? HAF w/topy, double leather w/topy or double Dainite?
Would the HAF look out of place on suede chukkas?

HAF not look so good on Vass imo.
Some makers do HAF better than others.
A single sole chukka would look best for most circumstances.
Double sole chukka look good under certain circumstance.
Keep it simple and play it safe.
Better to work with Vass' strengths.

 

[MacGuffen]

HAF not look so good on Vass imo.
Some makers do HAF better than others.
A single sole chukka would look best for most circumstances.
Double sole chukka look good under certain circumstance.
Keep it simple and play it safe.
Better to work with Vass' strengths.

Thanks for the reply! That's interesting. Can you elaborate why the HAF isn't as good as with other makers? I don't mind if the finishing isn't top notch so long as the comfort and construction is good. The whole reason I want double soles is for comfort (I've settled on either double HAF or normal double).

 

[TheTukker]

Thanks for the reply! That's interesting. Can you elaborate why the HAF isn't as good as with other makers? I don't mind if the finishing isn't top notch so long as the comfort and construction is good. The whole reason I want double soles is for comfort (I've settled on either double HAF or normal double).

Have you considered Vibram?

 

[Potatoe]

What sole would you guys go for in a P2-lasted 3-eyelet chukka? HAF w/topy, double leather w/topy or double Dainite?
Would the HAF look out of place on suede chukkas?

A suede chuka is kind of an all weather shoe so I would go dainite.

 

[Son Of Saphir]

Thanks for the reply! That's interesting. Can you elaborate why the HAF isn't as good as with other makers?

This post is long,
but it is well overdue.

Vass is a very basic shoemaker,
and making HAF was never something they used to do.
In the old days Vass never used to make the heel high enough on the HAF (always a stack too short and it was unbalanced - see old HAF Vass pictures here) and cobblers would have to build the heel up more.
A Vass HAF will always need a bigger heel than the single sole or double sole,
it makes no sense but it due to bad Vass design.
The Vass HAF is/was designed wrong,
the heel needed to balance it is/was very high and blocky.
Maybe times have changed but it used to be that way.
Measure your heels and compare.

Vass HAF is not very refined,
it is very crude.
The contrast of the single waist with the double sole/high toebox/higher heel and full last shape makes for a design that is lacking (looks like a brute instead of a graceful shoe).
It is not in Vass' dna to make this.
A Vass double sole more elegant than a Vass HAF.



The main point
You need to be very careful with Vass.
Their dna is in a specific way of making,
if you branch away from that the results can look a little off.
Maybe Vass has changed in recent years,
but there are numerous things they still don't do well at.
Many members seem to treat Vass like G&G or like a designer,
and one sees the mismatch of modern finishings with traditional Hungarian styling and other stylings (ughh).

I don't mind if the finishing isn't top notch so long as the comfort and construction is good. The whole reason I want double soles is for comfort (I've settled on either double HAF or normal double).

Understood
Maybe avoid the HAF and do a double sole instead.
The HAF is supposed to be refined and elegant,
but the Vass HAF is not.


A vass double soled P2 in casual pebble grain would kind of work but not perfect.
The P2 is great on a single sole,
it has a special traditional banana look that looks great when walking.
Ideally a Vass 3636 double sole is perfect as a more dressy derby
BP last is ideal in a double sole as a brogued casual shoe.
Ideal traditional chukka last for Vass??....not sure.
Ideally, would probably avoid Vass chukka double sole and avoid HAF at all costs.
Is chukka traditional AH style??...would doubt it.

 

[MacGuffen]

Have you considered Vibram?

It's a bit too chunky for what I'm looking for, but I'm sure it's great also.

A suede chuka is kind of an all weather shoe so I would go dainite.

I agree, but I see so many shoe experts praise the comfort of handwelted double soles, so I thought I'd try it out for myself. Personally, I found Vass' single soles to not be that comfortable for walking over long distances in varied terrain, but admittedly, they were dress shoes (Budapest F-last).

On a related note regarding double Dainite soles, is it the thickness of the leather over the Dainite sole that is increased? Or is the actual rubber that is thicker? If the former, I'd imagine double Dainite to be quite comfortable as well.

This post is long,
but it is well overdue.
..

That's very interesting, thanks for sharing! I like the F-last, but I was thinking a more casual last would be more appropriate for suede chukkas. I feel like the F-last chukka looks better in pictures than real life, and the P2-chukka looks a little blobby in pictures, but I suspect it looks better in real life.

 

[Son Of Saphir]

^^^

It is interesting how you talk about single soles not being comfortable when walking long distances.
Agree with this.
Me find nothing more comfortable than the BP double soled last when walking for a long time.

 

[Zapasman]

I teally like H

What sole would you guys go for in a P2-lasted 3-eyelet chukka? HAF w/topy, double leather w/topy or double Dainite?
Would the HAF look out of place on suede chukkas?

I really like HAF leather soles for bluchers and booties (double leather for boots). The are really flexible and sturdy. I think Vass does a very good job here, less refined than EG of course. Have a look to one of my HAF booties for your reference. You can't go wrong.

 

[Son Of Saphir]

^^^

Looks decent,
and balanced too.
Looks like the Vass HAF has improved over time.

 

[Jamesbond1]

F last Chukka on leather with vibram topy sole