The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[BoomDiggs]

I am soon to order my second suit from Luxire. I am generally happy with the first pair of pants but I would like the rise to be about one inch longer on the new pair. Any suggestions on how I communicate that? I am not even sure what I want other that the pants to come up an inch higher all around the waist. Will requesting just that cause me problems?

 

[lngn2]

Well, as long as you're not asking for nudes...

The jacket hangs pretty far open with unbuttoned, something like this:

View attachment 1224873

The big ripples in the chest are largely unchanged.

View attachment 1224874

I don't know if it's at all illustrative of anything, but here's what it looks like from behind when open.

From the side is an embarrassing angle for me, but you asked for it.

View attachment 1224876

(I hadn't noticed quite how much 'bulging' there is at the button, then again, there's a lot of 'bulging' going on underneath anyway. *achem*)

View attachment 1224875

For thoroughness, this is what it looks like from the side when open.

Thank you for you attention.

This comes with a health warning in that I'm not a tailor but have spent a lot of time reading around the subject, making garments, working on stuff with people who know what's what (current or ex Savile Row).

It looks as though your right shoulder is down slightly but hadn't been compensated for - the LHS of the coat appears to hang lop-sided when unbuttoned.

I think that there's a ripple across the back neck suggesting that the shoulders could do with squaring a bit.

Sleeves appear to have issues - beyond me to diagnose. The ripples in front of each sleeve are likely to be related.

This all said, it's difficult to tell from photos. Flash can make a very well fitting garment look like junk in my experience.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

This comes with a health warning in that I'm not a tailor but have spent a lot of time reading around the subject, making garments, working on stuff with people who know what's what (current or ex Savile Row).

It looks as though your right shoulder is down slightly but hadn't been compensated for - the LHS of the coat appears to hang lop-sided when unbuttoned.

I think that there's a ripple across the back neck suggesting that the shoulders could do with squaring a bit.

Sleeves appear to have issues - beyond me to diagnose. The ripples in front of each sleeve are likely to be related.

This all said, it's difficult to tell from photos. Flash can make a very well fitting garment look like junk in my experience.

Well, you helped calm my nerves (I'm a wildly nervous person, especially when dealing with something new), so I appreciate that.

The last time I was at Mr. Di Pietro's shop, he did a fitting of some waistcoats that he's making for me and ascertained that I had a low right shoulder that was the cause of flaring around the right armhole. It's reasonable to expect that this needs to be accounted for in the jacket too.

As for squaring the shoulders... *sigh* I must have the squarest damned shoulders in the world. I'm also working with another tailor who told me that when he was cutting my pattern, he was incredulous as how square it was, but in the fitting, we found that it needed to be squarer still.

I'm not sure about the sleeves either, but I'll consider broaching the subject. I just hope that there's nothing amiss that's beyond solving or will require particularly traumatic interventions.

 

[james.darley]

I recently had my 40R Light Blue Somelos Unstructured Cotton Blazer tapered as I had lost a significant amount of weight. I now wear a 38R slim in most brands.

While I believe the front drapes quite well for a cotton blazer, I see what I believe is some abnormal wrinkling even for cotton, which doesn’t drape well at all in the back, but cannot figure out the cause.

Attached are photos of the blazer along with a OTR brown Brisbane Moss moleskin from S&M for comparison that is a true 38R.

 

[Llamanodrama]

Hi all,

I have been wearing this suit for a while now and have just noticed this issue with my sleeve.
Is this a sleeve pitch issue or something else?
I think its a sleeve pitch issue as it dissappears when i pull back my shoulders (i have forward hunched shoulders) but it doesnt seem to have pulling on the lower parts of the arm.
It only appears on the right side. If it is a sleeve pitch issue, is it worth it to have something like that corrected? I made this suit overseas so I have no experience/confidence in the tailors locally.

First picture is natural stance and 2nd is with shoulders pulled bsck slightly.

Thanks!

 

[bert9000]

I had the waist of this jacket taken in a bit, and now there are wrinkles on the right side (left in photo). Did my tailor take in too much, and if so, would this be easy to fix if he just lets it out again? Much thanks.

 

[pnin22]

Question for the tailors: I'm doing waist suppression on a double-vented jacket by taking in the two underarm seams. What's the most efficient way to open up the lining -- take it off from the bottom, or open up the center seam of the lining? The latter seems easier, but may not allow me enough access.

 

[Despos]

Question for the tailors: I'm doing waist suppression on a double-vented jacket by taking in the two underarm seams. What's the most efficient way to open up the lining -- take it off from the bottom, or open up the center seam of the lining? The latter seems easier, but may not allow me enough access.

Are you doing this yourself?
Open the lining along the bottom the the back at the hem. Place your hand into the jacket; reach up and grab the jacket just below the collar on the center back seam and pull the jacket back thru the opening. The jacket will be inside out now.

 

[Despos]

I had the waist of this jacket taken in a bit, and now there are wrinkles on the right side (left in photo). Did my tailor take in too much, and if so, would this be easy to fix if he just lets it out again? Much thanks.

View attachment 1227298

View attachment 1227299

This looks like it's the way a fused area would react. If it is from taking in the waist, go back to tailor and ask. Also looks like it could be from a low right shoulder.
Pictures are very dark and don't show much.

 

[Torzano]

I had a pair of cotton chinos a little too large in the waist. The fabric would always bunch up when wearing a belt. I got the waist taken in at a dry cleaner to remedy this. Now it looks like a permanent bunching in the seat. Is that because the tailor should have brought in the seat as well as the waist?

 

[Despos]

I had a pair of cotton chinos a little too large in the waist. The fabric would always bunch up when wearing a belt. I got the waist taken in at a dry cleaner to remedy this. Now it looks like a permanent bunching in the seat. Is that because the tailor should have brought in the seat as well as the waist?

Yes. When the waist is taken in it is pulling the cloth across the seat towards the center and creates extra cloth you may not have noticed prior to taking in the waist. Easy to take in, go back and show them

 

[Torzano]

Yes. When the waist is taken in it is pulling the cloth across the seat towards the center and creates extra cloth you may not have noticed prior to taking in the waist. Easy to take in, go back and show them

Thanks it’s just never happened to me before. Usually I adjust the waist in wool pants. I guess it’s different because it’s cotton.

 

[Despos]

Thanks it’s just never happened to me before. Usually I adjust the waist in wool pants. I guess it’s different because it’s cotton.

It's the same for cotton as it is for wool, no difference. They just didn't adjust the seat enough. You cannot isolate taking in the waist and not take in the seat. It's all on the same seam.

 

[gianm]

Critique on this pair of Braddons please? Haven't decided on whether I should keep them so they haven't been hemmed yet. I'm happy with the drape in the front; however, the back could be cleaner. Not sure if I should try letting out the seat a bit.

 

[Torzano]

Critique on this pair of Braddons please? Haven't decided on whether I should keep them so they haven't been hemmed yet. I'm happy with the drape in the front; however, the back could be cleaner. Not sure if I should try letting out the seat a bit.

Is the fabric in the back just sticking to your legs because of static? The front looks perfect.