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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

jj02138

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Hello, help please! This is a new jacket where the right shoulder seems to sit in a weird concave shape tilting up at the sleeve, whereas the left falls more naturally. It's not quite as noticeable in real life as it looks in the pictures, but I notice it... With the jacket on a hanger this asymmetry does not show. I am far from an expert, but measurements seem to be the same on both sides.

I haven't seen this with any other jackets, whether with unpadded or padded shoulders. Is this something that can be tailored without completely deconstructing the shoulder? Would it involve adding more padding? (Wouldn't be looking forward to that...)

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jj02138

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Yes, I think so, and it could be possible I have a dropped shoulder. But then this doesn't show up on any other jacket I have, or at least it's not noticeable like this.
 

Lance Link

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I stumbled across this at a Goodwill last week, in the store mirror it looked good, and opted to swipe it up (for a pretty good price).

Tried it on again when I got home, and I think it may need an alteration or two.

I chose two shirts for these pics. Both are 18" neck, the blue shirt is a 38/39 sleeve, the red is a 37/38 sleeve.

Thoughts, opinions, input, and advice are appreciated.
 

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dauster

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I stumbled across this at a Goodwill last week, in the store mirror it looked good, and opted to swipe it up (for a pretty good price).

Tried it on again when I got home, and I think it may need an alteration or two.

I chose two shirts for these pics. Both are 18" neck, the blue shirt is a 38/39 sleeve, the red is a 37/38 sleeve.

Thoughts, opinions, input, and advice are appreciated.
Pants (at the bare minimum) need to be hemmed and tapered for sure - frankly pants are also quite messy overall but definitely need to be cleaned in the back. Don't have the knowledge nor vocabulary to really comment on the fit of the jacket... I'll leave that for other members here with more experience but button stance looks too high. I would also invest into some "nicer" shoes - maybe allen edmonds on sale or so. I would also try simple white shirts - respectfully your shirts look messy and "cheap" and I don't mean that in a mean way - just trying to be honest. I would pick up some basic solid colored shirts - maybe from Charles Tyrwhitt (I am sure other members have much better options that are also affordable). I think Kirby Allen from " the Hanger Project" has a few videos on youtube on cheaper shirts with good quality. The good thing is, you barely spent any money and you didn't spent thousand of dollars and looked like s*** like me a few months ago when I joined this forum...:)
 

ter1413

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I stumbled across this at a Goodwill last week, in the store mirror it looked good, and opted to swipe it up (for a pretty good price).

Tried it on again when I got home, and I think it may need an alteration or two.

I chose two shirts for these pics. Both are 18" neck, the blue shirt is a 38/39 sleeve, the red is a 37/38 sleeve.

Thoughts, opinions, input, and advice are appreciated.


Too small/short. Return.
 

Lance Link

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Dauster, thanks for the feedback. I appreciate the honesty.

It's tough to find suits and blazers on a budget that fit (I'm 6'6"), and while this one seemed to fit ok overall, I knew I couldn't wear it out and about without adjustments.

I've got a few nicer (and white) shirts, but the blue and red ones were used to distinguish the sleeve length differences when it comes to the cuffs.
And yes, once I started taking the pictures I was taken aback by the backside pics.

Ter1413, can you elaborate on your post about 'too short' ?
 

dauster

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Dauster, thanks for the feedback. I appreciate the honesty.

It's tough to find suits and blazers on a budget that fit (I'm 6'6"), and while this one seemed to fit ok overall, I knew I couldn't wear it out and about without adjustments.

I've got a few nicer (and white) shirts, but the blue and red ones were used to distinguish the sleeve length differences when it comes to the cuffs.
And yes, once I started taking the pictures I was taken aback by the backside pics.

Ter1413, can you elaborate on your post about 'too short' ?
Can you give us an approximate budget and region where you located at? Also, may I suggest a sports jacket and chinos - maybe Banana Republic for the chinos - they always seem to be on sale and may not fit great but definitely look better than yours.
 

ter1413

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Ter1413, can you elaborate on your post about 'too short' ?

The jacket is clearly too small/short. Ex. The sleeves and it doesn't fully cover your seat.
 

Lance Link

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Dauster,

I’m in western NY. Budget is rather minimal (hence the thrift store visits). With my height and such, alterations get pricey. By going the thrift store route, I save a few bucks.

Ter1413,

I see it now, especially in the back. Sleeves could be let out a little, but the back is still too short.
 

pnin22

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Question for the tailors: I am going to attempt to take in a jacket waist through the center back seam. However, the seam is a welt seam (or a partial flat felled seam), where seam #1 joins the two panels, and seam #2 is 1/4" away and goes over one panel and the folded-over allowance. Jacket is partially-lined with dual vents.

I assume I need to first open #2, sew a new #1 where I want to take in material, then redo #2. How far should I open #2 (collar to hem, or can I stop short?) Also, how do I get #2 to be very parallel to #1, since it is highly visible? Can I just delete seam #2 altogether?

Edit: I'm asking how to tailor the back center seam of a suit like this:

Screenshot_20190912-130425_1.png
Screenshot_20190912-130436_1.png
 
Last edited:

dauster

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Dauster,

I’m in western NY. Budget is rather minimal (hence the thrift store visits). With my height and such, alterations get pricey. By going the thrift store route, I save a few bucks.

Ter1413,

I see it now, especially in the back. Sleeves could be let out a little, but the back is still too short.
Got it, if your budget is really minimal, maybe try to find something at Nordstrom Rack, but really have no experience if "normal stores" have sizes that fit you...
 

pnin22

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Dauster, thanks for the feedback. I appreciate the honesty.

It's tough to find suits and blazers on a budget that fit (I'm 6'6"), and while this one seemed to fit ok overall, I knew I couldn't wear it out and about without adjustments.

Having scoured thrift stores in Western NY state, I can say that you're not likely to find anything even moderately useful, and even if you luck out, you'd still spend $100+ on tailors. My suggestion: go to NYC or Toronto, stop by a Rack or SuitSupply and find a fit that works for you. Then either buy it there (tailoring is free?), or look for the suit on eBay or buyers forum.
 

gianm

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What's the main cause of broken seams in the back of the leg (like in my post a page or two back)? Is it tightness in the seat or is it the thighs. For me, it feels like the seat is the culprit but I'm not sure. I'd like the trouser to drape nicely in the back.
 

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