The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Gavinband]

Gents,

I got a shirt made at a local tailor. Any advice? I have sloping shoulders and the right slopes more... not sure if the shirt has taken this in to account enough and if the arm holes are low enough? Ignore the old jeans with the fly undone, they are broken! Ha.

Shirt has been washed but not ironed, apologies.

Thanks

 

[hoxuantu]

@a tailor : Could you give me your comments?
What do you think about the length of jacket, the high of button stance? Is the jacket too tight?
Thanks.

 

[Despos]

Gents,

I got a shirt made at a local tailor. Any advice? I have sloping shoulders and the right slopes more... not sure if the shirt has taken this in to account enough and if the arm holes are low enough? Ignore the old jeans with the fly undone, they are broken! Ha.

Shirt has been washed but not ironed, apologies.

Thanks

You do have sloping shoulders but the biggest issue is the severity of how forward your shoulders extend. These side shots show it very clearly.This is very hard to get right, both sloping and forward pitched shoulders. The yoke is cut wrong on this shirt, doesn't sit on your shoulders properly.

 

[Gavinband]

Thanks! I am assuming when you mention the yoke you mean from the front picture and the fact it doesn't lay flat from the neck? Or do you mean from the back?

Agree on the forward pitch issue.... It's a pain. This shirt was not cheap and done by a good tailor, so not sure how to approach this.....

I have a good relationship with the tailor as they have made two lovely suits for me, I am assuming approaching and discussing these issues should not be an issue? The main reason I wanted a bespoke shirt was because of my awkward shoulders...

 

[hoxuantu]

@Despos : Could you give me a comment? Thanks.

 

[divot]

Looking for feedback on the best way to show a quarter or half inch of shirt cuff with this suit jacket. Do I need longer shirt sleeves or shorter jacket sleeves? Or both? Hoping @Despos or @a-tailor can offer some advice.

For the record, the sleeves of both the jacket and the shirt are 32".

 

[Gavinband]

@Despos

I gave my shirt a press and attach some pics again. Do your comments regarding the yoke still stand? Be helpful so I can consider what steps to take.

 

[godofcoffee]

Hey guys, I just got a new suit and would hugely appreciate any tips regarding adjustments you think ought to be made. Apologies for the wrinkles, it's obviously linen and I've worn it for a bit. Thank you!

 

[mensimageconsultant]

The pants can be salvaged. All they need is shortening.

The jacket length is woefully short, and the sleeves are too short. That cannot be fixed, and therefore the jacket is unwearable.

 

[hoxuantu]

Your jacket's waist appears a bit too tight. Also, your right sleeve may be slightly longer than your left.

Do you think the shoulder is little bit narrow, and the button stance is high?

 

[fire and zen]

Do Despos or any other tailors have thoughts on the collar gap and shoulder dimple (on top of the shoulder)? It may be worth noting that there's a bit of pressure on my shoulder at the seam (where the sleeve meets the body).

This is a MTM linen suit and it seems to fit well in other aspects. I took it to Enzo Caruso in Los Angeles, a wonderful bespoke tailor by all accounts. He simply pulled the jacket up on my neck and told me to wear it for a month, buttoned and frequently pulling down on the jacket, until the collar and shoulders molded to my frame. He also told me he would not change anything about the cut for future commissions. Indeed, when I pull down the jacket, the collar gap disappears, but that's not really the natural state of the jacket.

Thanks for the advice. Video below, let me know if more images are needed.

 

[bobbynardo]



Do you think the shoulder is little bit narrow, and the button stance is high?

If your suit's shoulders are natural (e.g., minimal padding), they actually look fine.

Button stance is, to some extent, a matter of taste. Your current button stance creates the illusion that your legs are longer than they actually are. I personally think if you eased your car's waist, your button stance would work well, but others may disagree.

 

[jexbrah]

Please critique the fit of my luxire shirt. What should I alter for my next order?

 

[Torzano]

I have a pair of chinos that the waist is too big. It causes bunching of fabric when I have a belt on. Would taking in the waist remedy this problem?

 

[Ttailor]



Do Despos or any other tailors have thoughts on the collar gap and shoulder dimple (on top of the shoulder)? It may be worth noting that there's a bit of pressure on my shoulder at the seam (where the sleeve meets the body).

This is a MTM linen suit and it seems to fit well in other aspects. I took it to Enzo Caruso in Los Angeles, a wonderful bespoke tailor by all accounts. He simply pulled the jacket up on my neck and told me to wear it for a month, buttoned and frequently pulling down on the jacket, until the collar and shoulders molded to my frame. He also told me he would not change anything about the cut for future commissions. Indeed, when I pull down the jacket, the collar gap disappears, but that's not really the natural state of the jacket.

Thanks for the advice. Video below, let me know if more images are needed.

What I noticed is a very slight tension across the very upper back which terminates mid shoulder.
The shoulder seam may be slightly too hollow or straight there for your particular shoulder shape/ slope/body type.

Or, maybe you do need a very marginal lengthening of the cb, and neck point, which would be blended down to the original shoulder point. In other words more shoulder slope by raising the cb rather than lowering at the shoulder point.

Likely a moot point though in this particular jacket. It is more of a change to be done at the pattern stage or early fitting stage of a custom made garment.