The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[EzraPaul]



Hello, I've ordered a linen shift from Propercloth and I'm having trouble working out why it looks so bad fit wise and what to do about it. I've not ordered or really worn much linen before so it might just be me not understanding the properties of the cloth or maybe it's just the cloth that I ordered, but I digress, (poorly lit and including half a lightswitch) pictures: [COLOR=A74345] [/COLOR] [COLOR=A74345] [/COLOR] I don't like the huge folds of cloth on the back, around the belly or under my arms from the front. It seems to be extremely rippled (not charming linen wrinkles), as if there's far too much fabric all over the place. Any suggestions? * Do I need to hugely let out the waist and bottom width measurements so that it's less tapered and thus becomes a baggy shirt? * Is the fabric just too thin to drape properly (it's just a different colour of this if it helps). * Do I need darts and width reductions to try and reduce the back fabric? * If I lift my arms up the yolk looks way too large, but it sits quite nicely on the shoulders with my arms down, any adjustment needed there? I'm lost, I've not had a shirt so far off from Propercloth. Using a random google image search ideal fit would be something like this or this Any help is appreciated.

It could be caused by several things:

• linen drapes differently than cotton
• the back is too big so when you taper to the waist it drapes funny (problem regardless of the waist issues)
• the armhole is too big (problem regardless of the waist issues)
• the shoulder slop is too square (problem regardless of the waist issues)

But is most likely the result of: You wear your trousers way lower than your true waist. You're unlikely to change this. I'd also bet the family farm that pants are always baggier than you like around the lower hip/thigh. This is because the rise is much too long for you on most trousers, so the hip (which is cut bigger than the thigh) is sitting at the thigh. I assume you are ordering these yourself, not getting measured? To fix:

• adjust the items above
• decrease the back if you can, which is doubtful, so decrease the chest 1/2" and the yoke 1/2" and check the "erect posture" box
• decrease the hip as much as you can without making it tight
• add 1-2" to the length. The shirt will be too long, but it will make the shirt waist longer (hip lower)

Lastly, this is why you should have a professional measure you.

 

[jeam3130]

1. What do I need my tailor to change for these pants to fit better? I feel like they are too baggy in the buttocks area. will slimming the thighs to the knee and increasing the taper from the knees down do the trick?

 

[TinyThor]

I have short arms & sports coats with surgeon's cuffs.

My local tailor (bespoke fellow, not alterations only type) has quoted me a price to shorten the sleeves that's 4x greater than shortening regular sleeves (plus, the pattern may not match which is a real risk). Is that a reasonable mark up? If i don't care about losing the functionality of the surgeon's cuffs can i get it shortened at the cuff end?
thanks!

TT

 

[EzraPaul]



I have short arms & sports coats with surgeon's cuffs.   My local tailor (bespoke fellow, not alterations only type) has quoted me a price to shorten the sleeves that's 4x greater than shortening regular sleeves (plus, the pattern  may not match which is a real risk). Is that a reasonable mark up? If i don't care about losing the functionality of the surgeon's cuffs can i get it shortened at the cuff end?
thanks!

TT

It costs that much because he has to take them up from the shoulder. I strongly recommend not doing that. I won't bore you with the details of why it isn't a good idea, but it almost never comes out good Even if your arms are so short that you clear the buttons, there will be no placket, which will not look good. I'd invest that money into a new jacket that fits right.

 

[bobbynardo]

Usually tailors/alterers want to take in sleeves for the sleevehead/shoulder when sleeve has working cuffs. It's more labor intensive but worth it if your garment is high quality.

 

[Torzano]

I got a pair of heavier weight chinos tapered and thighs taken in. The fit is a little too tight. Can they be taken out again?

 

[snk1800]

1. What do I need my tailor to change for these pants to fit better? I feel like they are too baggy in the buttocks area. will slimming the thighs to the knee and increasing the taper from the knees down do the trick?

Yep, seems like is a bit baggy in the buttocks area.

 

[Dr Evil]

Short Q with a terrible pic. Sorry.
Tried this on today. First time with natural shoulders. Can this cut work for the dad bod or does it make me look even wider?

 

[catlettsl]

Other than letting out the sleeves how's the fit? SuSu Napoli for reference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mensimageconsultant]



I got a pair of heavier weight chinos tapered and thighs taken in. The fit is a little too tight. Can they be taken out again?

Possibly. A tailor would be wise to leave an allowance in case the legs become bigger for some reason. Bring it back to the person who did it if possible.

 

[mensimageconsultant]



Other than letting out the sleeves how's the fit? SuSu Napoli for reference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's a good look as is, despite some minor fit issues. Yes, the sleeves, but also collar gap, pants probably too short, and the dubious trend of excess tapering at the waist (very slightly so).

 

[catlettsl]

Hey...thanks for the help. Oddly enough there has been no work done to the jacket. How would I get rid of the collar gap? I didnt notice it..could you point out what side. Also the shirt I have on is clearly too long however I definitely will have the sleeves let out.

 

[mensimageconsultant]

You're right about the shirt sleeves. Anyway, the picture is at angle, and therefore the non-severe collar gap is only clear near the right shoulder. However, without body asymmetry or poor construction. presumably it's on both. A tailor should be to handle it regardless of the particulars.

 

[maximscandi]

Have a quick quesion that I'd really appreciate som feedback with. Can a Casentino overcoat be altered in the waist and skirt? If so, by how much? It is a single breasted with normal flap pockets and single vented.

 

[facet]

oops, posted in the wrong thread