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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

esantosnyc

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Does anyone know if there are any disadvantages to narrowing the shoulders on a suit jacket? Of course i'd rather just buy a suit jacket that fits my chest/shoulders but I always need to size up so that I can get the correct size pants.
 

Chiliarches

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Does anyone know if there are any disadvantages to narrowing the shoulders on a suit jacket? Of course i'd rather just buy a suit jacket that fits my chest/shoulders but I always need to size up so that I can get the correct size pants.


Shoulders are very difficult to change and easy to mess up. If the shoulders don't fit, you should probably find another suit.

Are the pants for th correct jacket beyond tailoring? Is there not enough material to let them out?
 

esantosnyc

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Shoulders are very difficult to change and easy to mess up. If the shoulders don't fit, you should probably find another suit.

Are the pants for th correct jacket beyond tailoring? Is there not enough material to let them out?
The pants have enough fabric in the waist but unfortunately it's the seat that is the problem. Unfortunately Suitsupply is not known to offer a generous amount of excess fabric in that area.
 

LGHT

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Shoulders are very difficult to change and easy to mess up. If the shoulders don't fit, you should probably find another suit.

Are the pants for th correct jacket beyond tailoring? Is there not enough material to let them out?

I made that mistake and got a larger suit so the pants will be bigger and got talked into getting it tailored. The end result was horrible and it's pretty much a loss at this point. The arm width is huge and if I tapper the bottom it just looks silly. The sides that got taken in don't look right because now the pockets are too far out and almost sit on my hips and the shoulders stick out and pinch as a result. Luckily I found a tailor that pointed out the previous guys mistakes and flat old told me he would have never done the job because the end result will just look bad.

I just got back a new suit and although the waist is a bit snug the over all result and fit of the suit is a huge improvement. To be honest I actually got used to my waist fitting loose because I lost a good amount of weight in the last year. So I was buying up so the pants would fit when I shouldn't have been.

Now I'm learning how suit pants should fit "snug" and a bit on the tight side.
 

kashmir

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Hi tailors,

Suppose a jacket's chest circumference is half an inch smaller than what the wearer's usually wear. Would letting out the center back seam to achieve additional chest circumference allow for a more comfortable fit, or would there be major issues?

thanks!
 

dsmdylan

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Does anyone know if there are any disadvantages to narrowing the shoulders on a suit jacket? Of course i'd rather just buy a suit jacket that fits my chest/shoulders but I always need to size up so that I can get the correct size pants.

If a suit's drop doesn't work for you, just move on. There are way too many good options out there to fret over this.
 

jmc23

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Hey

Just got a new suit and would like some opinions on possible alterations. I was thinking the vest needs to be taken in.

Thanks









 

bracar0001

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how does this sienna fit?


400


400


And how does it compare to this suit in fit/appearance?
400


400
 
Last edited:

fcong

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I just bought this Canali in charcoal, and was wondering whether the shoulders are too wide for me?

Also, I wonder how to alter it to fit me better - if shoulders are not an issue, any suggestions or comments?
Some quick thoughts (I may be wrong):
1. The jacket should be taken-in in the midsection OR change the buttons?
2. Shorten both sleeves a bit
3. ..???

Thanks!





 
Last edited:

drjol

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Hi,

Ordered shirt and trousers from Luxire using a variety of measurements with the attached results. My thoughts were:

2. Shirt: Add darts, make the shoulders smaller to decrease wrinkles at the back, and increase the chest.

1. Trousers: Decrease the rise and slightly shorten.

Would be grateful for any advice.





 

sammybt

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Hi gents!

Been a longtime lurker, learnt lots from the forum, and ordered a suit a few weeks ago from a reputable tailor. It arrived in the mail a few days ago, and a number of problems with the fit have been bugging me since.

First the basics:
- Tailor: (I don't want to tarnish the operation's reputation, so I won't give too many identifying details now) based in a large Asian city, specialises in bespoke/MTM on their premises and in other cities
- Fabric: Holland & Sherry Fiesta (I picked the fabric from a H&S swatch book, Fiesta I read off the label attached to my suit)
- Measurements were based off my old suit (made years ago, which fit me extremely well when first made, but is now noticeably snug especially around the middle) - the tailors measured my old suit, then adjusted the recorded measurements based on my body during the appointment. Frankly I wasn't sure what to think about the first part of this method, as I had explicitly mentioned that my old suit no longer fits well.

I wasn't expecting a knock-me-out suit, but for the price I paid and their reputation (a lot of good reviews), I confess I hoped for something better - or am I just being picky?

Here are some pictures - I lightened them a little to highlight how the fabric falls - the actual color is darker. The suit IS a little creased - it arrived in a box and I haven't had a chance to get it pressed.

My new suit

Side - buttoned - the sleeves hide my shirt cuff. I had mentioned that I wanted a thin rim of exposed cuff - the tailor seemed to make especial note of it at the time, but the sleeves are still too long.


Back - shoulder divots


Back with arms raised - weird fabric bunching?
Also shoulder divots


Back - arms stretched in front. Weird bunching underneath collar?


Front - unbuttoned. Too-long sleeves.


Side - unbuttoned.



Trousers seem all right


I have a slightly slanted waistline from mild scoliosis. This is quite obvious here.


Front - buttoned - Bad shoulder divots
The lapel could be more generous. My fault - I wanted a conservative suit with normal lapel widths, but was convinced by the tailor to go for a narrower lapel against my better judgment. The pocket flaps, which are standard width, now seem too wide compared to the underwhelming lapels.
Is the gorge too high/ ok?


Front - buttoned, arms raised. Again bad divots



My questions to all the knowledgeable gentlemen here:
- Are my issues with the suit real or imagined?
- If real, can all/ some of the problems be fixed by a "normal" tailor?

Thanks!
 
Last edited:

quigleysr

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I posted in the Spier and Mackay thread but thought I'd try here as well. If that is frowned upon, please delete the inappropriate post.

I just received the Navy hopsack blazer, size 42. I'm very happy with it overall, and upon initial views of myself in the mirror, I was thinking it only needed a slight sleeve adjustment and some waist tapering. However, after taking a few pictures, I am now concerned that it appears fairly chopped for my body. Am I doomed to waiting for S&M to make long sizes more available in order to get an extra inch in the body? Or is this something that can work? I was really looking forward to ordering two suits in the bundle this week if the blazer had fit well.





 

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