The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[randomnoob]

I have a navy jacket from an online made to measure company. The sleeves are about 1" too long, they would not remake, said take it to a tailor. I have not done that yet. I think it fits nicely except for the sleeve issue. Between the elbow and shoulders isn't perfect but not that bad either




Then there is this off the rack jacket. In nearly every dimension it's identical to the made to measure except in the waist. But the sleeves/shoulders are horrific, they are also about 1" too long and have working buttons as well. Should I just return this or is there any hope for it? It comes with a $50 tailoring credit and yes I expect it would cost more than that to fix.



and yes i know the mirror is dirty

 

[chrisuoft]

Good afternoon gentlemen,

I recently picked up a MTM suit after the third fitting and something still seems off to me. I'm having trouble articulating the issue and was hoping for some expert advice and feedback.

Please click on the pictures for the full size images:

 

[Pendulum]



Good afternoon gentlemen,

I recently picked up a MTM suit after the third fitting and something still seems off to me. I'm having trouble articulating the issue and was hoping for some expert advice and feedback.

Please click on the pictures for the full size images:

Pic 1 - quite a large collar gap on the left side of the jacket, you look like one shoulder is lower than the other? Sleeves look like they are bunching a bit oddly as well on the last picture, as well as bunching around the pits.

 

[JezeC]

I'll give this a shot. In a nutshell, whats the best way to get ride of the creases at the chest area - the "V" crease.

 

[chrisuoft]

Thanks Pendulum,

Didn't notice the collar gap before. I'll wear this suit tomorrow and see if it's just the picture or if there's an issue.

What's the best way to fix the bunching near the pits?

 

[Despos]

Good afternoon gentlemen,

I recently picked up a MTM suit after the third fitting and something still seems off to me. I'm having trouble articulating the issue and was hoping for some expert advice and feedback.

Chest is to small. I explained this and added a photo of a proper sized chest a page or two back from here.
Trouser has the wrong balance and creates all the wrinkles on the back part and you have a high right hip which is larger than the left hip causing a distortion in how the trouser leg hangs

 

[Despos]

I'll give this a shot. In a nutshell, whats the best way to get ride of the creases at the chest area - the "V" crease.

you need a square shoulder adjustment to clean up the wrinkle

 

[JezeC]

you need a square shoulder adjustment to clean up the wrinkle

Will decreasing the shoulder slope by .25 inch create a square shoulder adjustment?

Please let me know what to do, so I can relay the message. Thanks.

 

[Despos]

Can't be specific from a picture, guessing you may need up to 3/4".

You can pin the excess cloth in a < shape. 0 at the point of the shoulder and pin across to the neck in graduated increments. This will give you a visual confirmation of the change. You can also press in the change with an iron and then cover the wedge shape with a piece of tape to hold it. Put the tape on the underside of the cloth.

 

[RomanOne]

Hello All:

I have been lurking on this site for quite a while. Finally joined up as I found this thread and just received today a suit from Dragon Inside.

If you would please, take a look and lend me your expert opinion for alterations.

Here is what we worked out on initial order measurements (what you see here in the photos). First column of numbers is inches and second column of numbers is centimeters:

IN CM

Jacket Chest​

​

44.9 114

Jacket Stomach​

40.2 102

Jacket hips​

44.9 114

Jacket length​

30.9 78.5

Jacket Half-Shoulder Size​

5.6 14.3

Jacket Sleeve length​

25.4 64.5

Jacket Wrist​

11.2 28.5

Jacket Biceps​

16.5 42

Jacket Shoulders​

18.1 46

Pants Length​

41.7 106
Pants Waist 35.8 91
Pants Hips 43.7 111
Pants Thigh 27.2 69
Pants Leg Opening 16.5 41.9
Pants Crotch 27.5 69.9

Thanks. Great bunch of folks here...













​

Hello All:

I have been working with a local tailor here in San Francisco and we are getting things figured out. There was too much collar gap and Dragon Inside (now Oliver Wicks) is redoing the whole jacket. Excellent customer service. The local tailor recommended the following changes:

JACKET

3/4" reductions on the left and right sides of the WAIST of the jacket for a TOTAL of 1.5"
3/4" reductions on the left and right sides of the HIPS of the jacket for a TOTAL of 1.5"
5/8" reduction of the sleeve length
3/4" reduction in collar area (not possible to fix with current jacket)

PANTS

1" reduction of waist and hips area of the pants
1.25" reduction of pants inseam length

If anyone could please provide any more input, especially with regards to the jacket length in the photos, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks!

 

[flvinny521]

Quote:
I'm probably the furthest thing from a tailor, but it already seems like there is some pulling at the button on the jacket the way it is. It would seem like a reduction on 1.5" would make this considerably more severe.

Edit: Or maybe the fact that the jacket seems to be pulling away from your chest near the sternum is playing a role.

 

[remington]

I've just taken delivery of this MTM suit after two fittings. After wearing it a little, I think

A) The button stance is a bit low
B) The jacket feels a bit 'roomy', and perhaps could use some waist suppression? I'm not sure if it just feels this way because I'm used to wearing much more fitted suits, though.
C) The sleeves maybe shouldn't be so creased/crumpled at the back?

For reference, I'm about 5 foot 7, and normally wear a 36 short.

Any feedback or suggestions would be much appreciated. I know that nothing can be done about the button stance, but can the jacket be made less 'roomy' at this stage?

 

[randomnoob]

Hello All:

I have been working with a local tailor here in San Francisco and we are getting things figured out. There was too much collar gap and Dragon Inside (now Oliver Wicks) is redoing the whole jacket. Excellent customer service. The local tailor recommended the following changes:

JACKET

3/4" reductions on the left and right sides of the WAIST of the jacket for a TOTAL of 1.5"
3/4" reductions on the left and right sides of the HIPS of the jacket for a TOTAL of 1.5"
5/8" reduction of the sleeve length
3/4" reduction in collar area (not possible to fix with current jacket)

PANTS

1" reduction of waist and hips area of the pants
1.25" reduction of pants inseam length

If anyone could please provide any more input, especially with regards to the jacket length in the photos, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks!

how do they shorten the sleeves when they have working buttons?

 

[RomanOne]

how do they shorten the sleeves when they have working buttons?

The tailor I am working with addressed that by saying that they do the alteration at the sleeve/shoulder junction. Luckily I will not have to address this issue now. He seemed to think it was not that big of a deal to do this work.

My biggest question now is jacket length.

 

[randomnoob]

would you mind asking how much sleeve length can be shortened in that way? i do not have a good local tailor. my sleeves, from the same company, are probably an inch too long.