Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Texasmade]

Super curved breast pocket looks a bit gimmicky.

The way he cuts a round bulky chest with shoulder/sleeve line being vertical makes his clients appear to have barrel chest. He probably should cut with more shoulder extension.

His waist shape is curved unnaturally imo.

Might be worth a shot if you want to work with a local bespoke tailor long term and forge a style/relationship.

Does he have something made with his preference instead of the clients? Hard to judge his taste when he compensates too much for client's input. He's going to grow into his customers taste which isn't looking good long term based on his Instagram posts.

When I looked at his IG, all of his stuff looked off. You nailed it why his stuff looked off to me.

 

[Crispyj]

Thanks for the pointer. Pastena's work looks great. I could travel to Texas quite cheaply, but if I do, I would also start considering Steed. I'm not married to the strictly Neapolitan aesthetic and can appreciate Steed's extra structure and draping. Hopefully this doesn't come across as the complete oposite of the style I described in previous messages 🙃 But I guess it does show that I need to study a bit more to decide to what style to commit.

The Mexican tailor might be useful for trousers though. Would you agree? I'm a waist size 26 so it's quite hard to find RTW.

It seems like he mostly make flat front pants?
I'd be a little concerned about that given I would prefer pleats.
Easier to gauge to skills of the tailor.

If you got the money, doesn't hurt to test the waters.
You learn a lot more by trying than reading around.

Best of luck 👍

 

[mktitsworth]

The tailor I am working with most these days is Mexican (though in Texas) and you've brought up a point that I intuited might be a personal stylistic point, but may be a stylistic point for Mexican and Hispanic/Latino tailors operating in the central American region (though I'd say Central Texas is at the north end of that region). I noticed with Luis that he likes a more structured cut in the jacket, not necessarily in the shoulder, to create shape, though it's more cylindrical than my tastes and I've talked with him about it. We could be, though, on the forefront of noticing a distinct tailoring style coming out of the region, as it is highly influenced by the cuts and styles of western wear, that bleed over into the more traditional things that are cut.

These are thoughts I've been having that might be of use and instead of trying to modify (though I'd say you should always discuss your silhouette preferences and ideas with the tailor) a distinctly central American style that is emerging, there might be advantage to embracing the style as it emerges and seeing what sort of cool techniques these central American tailors come up with.

One example is that the first three jackets that Luis made for me aren't canvas. They use a central American felted interlining referred to me as Angel hair and they make the lightest jackets I've ever come across. While that's not necessarily what I want for all of my jackets - I have a Lesser LGB Gun Club being made up in a very traditional style - it may be worth having a conversation with your Mexican tailor to see his thoughts, because while you may end up with something less forvm acceptable, you'll also more likely end up with something that is forvm infathomable.

 

[smit388]

The tailor I am working with most these days is Mexican (though in Texas) and you've brought up a point that I intuited might be a personal stylistic point, but may be a stylistic point for Mexican and Hispanic/Latino tailors operating in the central American region (though I'd say Central Texas is at the north end of that region). I noticed with Luis that he likes a more structured cut in the jacket, not necessarily in the shoulder, to create shape, though it's more cylindrical than my tastes and I've talked with him about it. We could be, though, on the forefront of noticing a distinct tailoring style coming out of the region, as it is highly influenced by the cuts and styles of western wear, that bleed over into the more traditional things that are cut.

These are thoughts I've been having that might be of use and instead of trying to modify (though I'd say you should always discuss your silhouette preferences and ideas with the tailor) a distinctly central American style that is emerging, there might be advantage to embracing the style as it emerges and seeing what sort of cool techniques these central American tailors come up with.

One example is that the first three jackets that Luis made for me aren't canvas. They use a central American felted interlining referred to me as Angel hair and they make the lightest jackets I've ever come across. While that's not necessarily what I want for all of my jackets - I have a Lesser LGB Gun Club being made up in a very traditional style - it may be worth having a conversation with your Mexican tailor to see his thoughts, because while you may end up with something less forvm acceptable, you'll also more likely end up with something that is forvm infathomable.

Sounds interesting. I’m a Texan as well. Where is he located and can you post some pics of some pieces?

 

[mktitsworth]

Sounds interesting. I’m a Texan as well. Where is he located and can you post some pics of some pieces?

Check my latest postings in this thread. He's in Austin. I have also noticed a tendancy towards a more cylindrical cut for house style, but he's not opposed to shaping through the waist either on the sides or through the front darts. It's about establishing your pattern with him and getting what you want. As an example, I just posted a 3 piece Fox Air that he made for me in the WAYWT thread, where there's a lack of front dart and shaping on the sides specifically to avoid breaking the pattern, but the construction of the front is also softer because the Angel hair we've been using instead of horse hair canvas for these first few jackets is softer and lighter. It makes the jackets flow with the breeze, but it's not as pronounced in the shaping of the jacket as horse hair is (at least as far as my observations so far go).

 

[smit388]

Check my latest postings in this thread. He's in Austin. I have also noticed a tendancy towards a more cylindrical cut for house style, but he's not opposed to shaping through the waist either on the sides or through the front darts. It's about establishing your pattern with him and getting what you want. As an example, I just posted a 3 piece Fox Air that he made for me in the WAYWT thread, where there's a lack of front dart and shaping on the sides specifically to avoid breaking the pattern, but the construction of the front is also softer because the Angel hair we've been using instead of horse hair canvas for these first few jackets is softer and lighter. It makes the jackets flow with the breeze, but it's not as pronounced in the shaping of the jacket as horse hair is (at least as far as my observations so far go).

Awesome I’ll check it out. Not a lot of bespoke options in this part of the country unfortunately

 

[mktitsworth]

Awesome I’ll check it out. Not a lot of bespoke options in this part of the country unfortunately

Feel free to peruse his instagram which is findable through my posts. Luis does the majority of the cutting, but he's got a team of sewers who handle most of the putting together. Which is not to say that he doesn't do plenty of it himself - I've seen him working on the pad stitching for jackets which have a certain softness done by hand versus machine - but it's an opportunity to see a designer and tailor in action and work with what he thinks is cool as well, and that's been one of the advantages to working with him.

 

[Despos]

Hi everyone. I hope you don't mind me chiming in to ask your help evaluating the work of a tailor in Mexico City. He's quite young but has worked with reputable houses in Mexico.

I'm looking to commission my first bespoke project, and, if money were no object, I'd probably go to Antonio Solito, but this one seemed like a good, more affordable alternative.

Here are a few sources you may look at

• His instagram account.
• A video of a Mexican content creator talking about his work. (He made the trousers and cord jacket.)
• A few photos he shared with me

Texting with him, he sounded quite passionate and mentioned liking Italian style in general, but often needing to go in different directions because of client preferences.

Thanks you in advance.

I know of Axl and know a couple tailors who used to work for him. Never met him and I don’t think he speaks English. May be a problem unless you speak Spanish.
Have visited the shop where he learned tailoring.
Owner of the shop Spent 10 years or so in Italy working in both tailor shops and factories. Know he was at Kiton for several years and I think Brioni. Don’t remember which tailor shops.
He returned to Mexico and began teaching. The training in Mexico City is some of the best I’ve seen or heard of.
A friend sent me a jacket he had made there and was surprised when I opened the jacket up to see some of the best, cleanest work I’ve ever seen from any tailor in any country. I went to Mexico City to see who was doing work like this. My timing was off because the shop had been sold and new owners changed the production to less hand work to speed up work flow and increase production. Think this is why Axl left and went on his own.
Since I don’t know Axl personally but do know his background and tailors who work with him, he is capable of some fine work if you can communicate what you want. Have seen 3 or 4 breast pocket styles they do. From highly exaggerated curve ( which is very difficult to do) to a straight pocket like you see in English tailoring. I know the person who was making buttonholes for him, they are 100% by hand and the best I’ve ever seen. Hand made Buttonholes are the first thing taught and learned to anyone that trained their.
You have to know what your preferences are for style and fit and be able to communicate.
Point of this post is, he has a good understanding of tailoring techniques and is capable. There is flexibility in his house style. No first hand knowledge of his fitting skills so I can’t comment.

 

[mktitsworth]

I know of Axl and know a couple tailors who used to work for him. Never met him and I don’t think he speaks English. May be a problem unless you speak Spanish.
Have visited the shop where he learned tailoring.
Owner of the shop Spent 10 years or so in Italy working in both tailor shops and factories. Know he was at Kiton for several years and I think Brioni. Don’t remember which tailor shops.
He returned to Mexico and began teaching. The training in Mexico City is some of the best I’ve seen or heard of.
A friend sent me a jacket he had made there and was surprised when I opened the jacket up to see some of the best, cleanest work I’ve ever seen from any tailor in any country. I went to Mexico City to see who was doing work like this. My timing was off because the shop had been sold and new owners changed the production to less hand work to speed up work flow and increase production. Think this is why Axl left and went on his own.
Since I don’t know Axl personally but do know his background and tailors who work with him, he is capable of some fine work if you can communicate what you want. Have seen 3 or 4 breast pocket styles they do. From highly exaggerated curve ( which is very difficult to do) to a straight pocket like you see in English tailoring. I know the person who was making buttonholes for him, they are 100% by hand and the best I’ve ever seen. Hand made Buttonholes are the first thing taught and learned to anyone that trained their.
You have to know what your preferences are for style and fit and be able to communicate.
Point of this post is, he has a good understanding of tailoring techniques and is capable. There is flexibility in his house style. No first hand knowledge of his fitting skills so I can’t comment.

Well fine. Go ahead. Be a master tailor on the forum with an informed take on a tailor to be evaluated and provide insightful commentary, why don't ya. I see how it is. All of those years behind the scissors and suddenly you think you know what it takes to identify a good cutter/tailor. You are just so full fo it.

 

[ZZ99]

I know of Axl and know a couple tailors who used to work for him. Never met him and I don’t think he speaks English. May be a problem unless you speak Spanish.
Have visited the shop where he learned tailoring.
Owner of the shop Spent 10 years or so in Italy working in both tailor shops and factories. Know he was at Kiton for several years and I think Brioni. Don’t remember which tailor shops.
He returned to Mexico and began teaching. The training in Mexico City is some of the best I’ve seen or heard of.
A friend sent me a jacket he had made there and was surprised when I opened the jacket up to see some of the best, cleanest work I’ve ever seen from any tailor in any country. I went to Mexico City to see who was doing work like this. My timing was off because the shop had been sold and new owners changed the production to less hand work to speed up work flow and increase production. Think this is why Axl left and went on his own.
Since I don’t know Axl personally but do know his background and tailors who work with him, he is capable of some fine work if you can communicate what you want. Have seen 3 or 4 breast pocket styles they do. From highly exaggerated curve ( which is very difficult to do) to a straight pocket like you see in English tailoring. I know the person who was making buttonholes for him, they are 100% by hand and the best I’ve ever seen. Hand made Buttonholes are the first thing taught and learned to anyone that trained their.
You have to know what your preferences are for style and fit and be able to communicate.
Point of this post is, he has a good understanding of tailoring techniques and is capable. There is flexibility in his house style. No first hand knowledge of his fitting skills so I can’t comment.

I’m a mexico city native, so no language barrier 🙂

Is the house he trained at “Tomorrowland tailors”? I just read this article about Axl (in spanish) and they mention that house, but I wasn’t familiar with it. I’m curious, Who is the tailor who worked in Italy for 10 years?

@Crispyj’s input was spot on. He pointed to flaws that I find myself agreeing with, but wasn’t able to initially identify. So I certainly need to develop my style more to be able to steer him in a direction that I won’t end up regretting afterwards.

As I was telling @Crispyj, I think that commissioning a pair of trousers will be a good first project to develop a relationship while I continue refining my taste.

 

[tdang]

Quick question: does any of you gents has some experience with Fumiyo Hirano?

Archie's out of town next time I'm in Tokyo and Hirano is the next one on my list of British style Japanese tailors. I understand they do different things and I like both equally, but I was wondering if FH would be too structured - something that is difficult to judge from pictures alone. Appreciate any input!