The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[DavideMiguel85]

Aren't they mostly personal/style choices? Unless I guess, as Despos describes above, there is a reason to use one over the other for better tailoring. I personally choose twin vents as any OTR single vents have never 'sat well' with me.

 

[TweedyProf]

Client preference first, congruent with preferred style of jacket. Body type.

Have only 2 or 3 clients that ask for center vent or no vent. Sometimes they ask for no vent on a tuxedo. Still it's the clients personal preference

@Despos

Are there any styles where center vent is preferred? Riding jackets? Or body type? I can't see wearing anything but side vents myself, and dislike my center vent jacket (for having that feature).

 

[Despos]

As you mentioned, riding jackets and also traditional ivy league styling. The very conservative ivy league cut had a hook center vent. Same as done on a set of tails.

 

[Despos]

Submitting a few photos that show what I was trying to describe in previous posts.

Back view of how the vents look when the back is cut wide enough at the hem to wrap around the seat

This client has very prominent blades



Look at the break line of the lapel and how it runs straight from the collar to the button. helps to keep the jacket close on the neck and hug the chest. Emphasizes the upper chest and shoulder and doesn't exaggerate the chest. This jacket has a touch of drape but it's balanced with the upper chest area.
I'm aware the jacket isn't pinned properly at the waist


Client is a bit sway back but the vents hang close to the body and fall back in place as he walks

 

[amisuh]

X-Post from the Luxire-thread

Hi guys

I've been reading this thread for a long time and decided to order my first trial shirt which I received today. I would really like your input on the fit. I am quite happy with the body measurments (?) and my real question is how to fix the shoulders/arms? There is quite a lot pulling when I put my hands forward as you can see below int picture before last. It is quite uncomfortable and I am wondering what measurments to adjust? My thought was to shorten the yoke and maybe add to the armhole measurement?

Please ignore the collar which is too high for me, and also the length of the shirt which I messed up.


Front and back:




After the abowe pic:



After the above pic:








After the pic above:
''

Thanks a lot

 

[ebayhtl]

Hi guys - how does this jacket look from the back - too tight or is it just the wrinkling from it being a linen/silk jacket?

It feels a little tight at the shoulder blade area but I'm going to try it again later this week before letting it out. Cheers.

 

[Banker94]

Hey guys,

Here's my situation. I bought a suit (from SS) half a year ago, when I was at 210lbs, during my "bulking phase" of working out.

I've since gone into my "cutting phase," cutting down on my diet and doing more aerobic exercises. I am currently 180lbs (with most of the weight loss around the mid-section/belly), my waist size went from a 36 to a 32, and my body fat percentage is probably around 15%. I plan on continuing to cut to a 10% body fat and stay in that physique -- no more bulking and cutting.

The suit I bought used to, and still fits me very well in the chest/shoulders, but the mid-section has become looser since I've lost weight. The waist has already been altered and suppressed when I initially bought the suit, so I don't think any more waist suppression is necessary or desirable. However, I'd like the entire silhouette to be just slimmer (right now I can very comfortably fit a fist in between my belly and the jacket). I feel like the effect can be achieved by getting rid of some fabrics on the back, but I don't know anything about tailoring.

So my question is this: can the slimming of the entire silhouette be done, and if so, how/how much would it cost?

I've attached some before and after pictures. The first two are from the 210lb me, and the next two are me right now. Thank you everyone for your opinions and advice.

 

[Claghorn]

I'm curious about y'all's (tailors) take on the opening credits of The Tailor of Panama?

 

[greger]

Watched on YouTube where a tailor used a tape measure twice when drawing a coat. He used no other drawing aids.

 

[DavideMiguel85]

Submitting a few photos that show what I was trying to describe in previous posts.

Back view of how the vents look when the back is cut wide enough at the hem to wrap around the seat

This client has very prominent blades



Look at the break line of the lapel and how it runs straight from the collar to the button. helps to keep the jacket close on the neck and hug the chest. Emphasizes the upper chest and shoulder and doesn't exaggerate the chest. This jacket has a touch of drape but it's balanced with the upper chest area.
I'm aware the jacket isn't pinned properly at the waist


Client is a bit sway back but the vents hang close to the body and fall back in place as he walks

That is excellent. I appreciate the extra effort of illustrating this as well. I don't care too much for the fabric but the cut is fantastic, night & day compared to mine.

A follow up Q: Do you think the collar (on the jacket) is out of proportion with the lapels on mine? I was discussing it with someone who does minor alterations this morning, and it played on my mind. It does feel/look like the collar was made for a thinner lapel.. does that make sense?

 

[Despos]

The notch, distance along the gorge from the tip of the lapel to the point the collar starts, is too deep and the gorge is too high, makes it look off.

 

[PeterVintage]

That is a beautiful jacket. I have looked at many of the posts on this thread, because it is interesting to read everyone's comments. It is useful to see examples of clothes that fit correctly, in order to understand what one should be aiming for, in addition to all the helpful comments about how to fix mistakes.

 

[ShawnBC]

For what it's worth, the rise of the trousers is around 0.5" lower than my navel, which I cropped out.

Quote (I highlighted the important parts in bold): This is my first pair of trousers commissioned with you. They are the Rust Plain Soft Clhino, machine-made (trial fit). Although I am very pleased with the construction quality (that I presume can only improve by ordering non-trial fit items), I would like to tweak the measurements a little bit to obtain a better, fuller drape. By sending you these pictures, I'm hoping you could help me decide where to add room and by how many inches / fractions of inches!

First, let me apologize for the skin showing; I thought by having no shirt to cover the waistband might give a better / whole idea of how the trousers fit. I tried to crop out as much skin showing as I can, but keeping enough to not make it hard to judge proportions!

The waistband I don't want to change. I might add a little bit in the seat as the rear inseam ride up "in the crack" a bit. What's more, thepockets are flaring a little (I selected the worst picture to effectively show the phenomenon but it isn't this bad in reality) and the pleats aren't laying flat most of the time (unless I pull the waistband up and/or legs down). I feel good in the thighs although they appear (too?) slim on pictures (+ 0.75"?). Where I feel most unconfortable is in the knees. I feel the taper is too strong from thighs to knee and lessens from knee to cuff. How much should I add to the knee half-measurements to have a better, fuller drape and clean line from waistband to cuff (I like fuller trousers, as my hefty frame doesn't fit well with skinny trousers).

The cuff measurement is fine: the taper appears very aggressive from the front but looking from the side, it seems good? What do you think?

My other gripe is the fabric bunching under the seat/cheeks. I have a hip-forward posture (and a flat, yet large seat), resulting in excess fabric in this region. If I intentionally rotate my hips backward / push my "ass" back, the fabric pooling is mainly gone! What's the remedy? (I've seem on StyleForum that this is a common problem that's easy to solve?).

Thank you for taking the time to help me in my quest for perfect trousers, I can't wait to order another pair of trousers!

PS.: the drape would certainly be better with heavier fabrics I suspect. Maybe some of the creases and bunching in the photos are caused by the cloth being a light (7-8 oz) cotton?

Here's what Ashish wrote back to me:

Quote:

Thanks and Regards,
Ashish Arya
Luxire Custom Clothing

* I realize # 2 and 3 are contradicting - I wrote to Ashish about it and I am waiting to hear back from him..

What do you guys think of the proposed changes? I'm concerned it might not be all that's needed to achieve a proper, SF-approved clean (and fuller, given my heft) drape.

Disclaimer: I am sorry for the bare-torso pictures; I took them in a hurry and I tried to crop out as much skin showing as possible. Plus, I know the trousers aren't ironed. Still, I think the main fit problem can be highlighted none-the-less.

 

[PeterVintage]

That is excellent. I appreciate the extra effort of illustrating this as well. I don't care too much for the fabric but the cut is fantastic, night & day compared to mine.

A follow up Q: Do you think the collar (on the jacket) is out of proportion with the lapels on mine? I was discussing it with someone who does minor alterations this morning, and it played on my mind. It does feel/look like the collar was made for a thinner lapel.. does that make sense?

Following my post above, and the brown / check jacket in the example, I would agree that the collar in the blue jacket above might be too large, though it may be the heavy material that gives that impression. We don't see the back of the jacket, but other than the collar, to this layman's eyes, the blue jacket looks good. Also further to my post, I feel that as a novice in matters of suit and clothes fitting, I need to see examples of good work as well as examples of errors. I will be taking some material to a tailor in Dubai within the next month, and am putting together a checklist of points that I should look out for at the fittings, and when having initial discussions. For example, as one member on this forum identified in some of the examples, people do not always have perfectly equal shoulders (and I have one leg slightly longer than the other, with one hip bone about a quarter inch higher than the other). This is worth remembering when at the tailor. Otherwise, we notice later on, when it is too late. Thanks to all the sharp eyed and expert people on this thread, and all their useful tips.

 

[RomanOne]

Hello All:

I have been lurking on this site for quite a while. Finally joined up as I found this thread and just received today a suit from Dragon Inside.

If you would please, take a look and lend me your expert opinion for alterations.

Here is what we worked out on initial order measurements (what you see here in the photos). First column of numbers is inches and second column of numbers is centimeters:

IN CM

Jacket Chest​

44.9 114

Jacket Stomach​

40.2 102

Jacket hips​

44.9 114

Jacket length​

30.9 78.5

Jacket Half-Shoulder Size​

5.6 14.3

Jacket Sleeve length​

25.4 64.5

Jacket Wrist​

11.2 28.5

Jacket Biceps​

16.5 42

Jacket Shoulders​

18.1 46

Pants Length​

41.7 106
Pants Waist 35.8 91
Pants Hips 43.7 111
Pants Thigh 27.2 69
Pants Leg Opening 16.5 41.9
Pants Crotch 27.5 69.9

Thanks. Great bunch of folks here...